MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Ok twin guys only. I tried for couple days to get my trans into the clutch but always had a inch or so of gap. I used the tool and torqued star pattern. Tool was nice and fit in and out easily. The trans goes in and hits the fingers and you just can't push it on.So finally out of deperation since was going to burn the car to the ground
bought longer bolts ,first used them to make sure all the bolts were in line and then used them to pull the tranny in. I know I was in the splines of the clutch disc and was moving the front balancer pully and the output shaft was turnng fine.
I did a cartch clutch and didn't have to use longer bolts but the twin disc is taller than the cartech or stocker.
So did any of you twin guys have to use longer bolts to draw it in?
I opened slave and put car in gear think read that somewhere. Didn't seem to help and no fluid came out of my brand new slave. woudl have thought it would have when opened the bleeder.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I did finally use some longer bolts to draw it in but was careful to make sure the bolts were all lined up and drew them in slowly and equally. Textralia confirmed this was not that bad and my clutch should be ok. Ideally it should have went in a bit closer but it was definitely thru the splines and did use clutch tool so it wasn't off by much.

I have seen other clutch makers also recommend this longer bolt draw in in their instructions.The pilot bearing is not splined so as long as the nose of the input shaft goes in there straight and you are thru the clutch disc splines which you verify by turning the engine and seeing if the output shaft spins you should not be hurting anything and sometimes you are off a hair since the alignment tools are pretty sloppy but its annoying to keep taking out and realigning things hoping you get them perfect. So if its close and you can get the longer bolts started in at least four corners you should be ok. A lot of guys are super paranoid about this. Dont think they need to be.

Textralia

I'm not sure who you spoke to here. But, I would not recommend using longer bolts to "suck" the transmission down. Many shops will use an actual input shaft as it has a tighter tolerance and does a better job of lining up the splines. You also need to make sure the shaft has a lubricant (like some dishwasher soap) to make the shaft slide in easier. Don't go crazy with the lube (whatever you use) however so you don't contaminate the frictional surfaces.

The thing to be carful of is if there is an issue which is keeping the unit from seating down. For instance, many folks leave the slave fully extended, and then try to install the clutch with the slave all the way out. The fluid has nowhere to go, so you end up having to compress the clutch with the slave to close up that gap. If you fully depress the slave to start, it will make it easier.

My point is, if the transmission won't seat, check your work to make sure something isn't in a bind. Its not a best practice to force stuff together. I'm not saying in your case it didn't work, but its imperative when installing anything to check your work and ensure you don't have an issue you are overlooking. If not, you could have issues later.

If you have any questions, feel free to send us an email at admin@textralia.com.au

-Joe

Textralia

I wanted to point out that our own instruction spell out specifically not to do that. So, again, I'm not sure who you spoke with, but we would not recoomend the practice of using longer bolts to "suck" it all together.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I talked to Peter. He never said it was the best idea but since the clutch was thru the darn splines for sure as checked by turning engine and since I made sure to line up the longer bolts first at the corners it was at least in line and here are no splines in the pilot bearing or end of the input shaft. I just used some white lithium grease on the input shaft. I think the slave was mabye part of the problem. But heres the thing.I opened the bleeder and never saw any fluid come out even when compressed it by hand? ??
I heard to open the bleeder and did. So again not sure why the slave would be so difficult. That tool might not be the best but your average guy dont' have a spare input spline lying around either. And the average guy is likely doing the install on the garage floor on floor jacks. I have seen instructions where they do say to pull it in a bit and of course it could mess something up if you were way crooked or if you didn't use a tool at all and tried to force things together. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything.
I have not fired car up yet, am also doing intake and tb install and few other little things like installing new master so be another day or so and then can report back on this.
I had no instructions and think it was the weekend so no one could get back to me for several days. POST THEM ON YOUR WEBSITE!!!!!

pewter01z

iTrader: (44)

I did NOT have to use longer bolts on my Exo-Skel. Stock 02 master and slave.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Hmm well then think it was the slave .I opened bleeder but guess you are supposed to open bleeder compress slave and close bleeder? I didn's see any fluid come out either. Thought new gm slaves were full. It went into the darn splines and it was straight.At least used longer bolts to line it up in the corners. If an input shaft is so important to line these things up then the clutch companies should include one but would think input shaft cost good bucks and the plastic tool is cheap.
If I managed to wreck the clutch pulling it in a inch or so when sure it was in the splines we turned the engine and output shaft turned then swear this will be the last clutch I ever buy for this car and will go auto from now on. I am still pretty sure it was just the slave pressure keeping it from going in all the way.

pewter01z

iTrader: (44)

I would be more worried about the pilot bearing. Clutch is probbably ok.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

What does the pilot do anyway..it just spins it seems to be and rattles?
it dont' grip the input it has no splines just bearings on it.

Anyway can't even get to that stage. First I had problem that pedal wouldn't go down. Then figured out the master line was not properly in the slave. Then got it in there and pedal goes to floor like it should. Now bought speed bleeder or remote bleeder off Steve D. At least think its a speed bleeder. But not 100 % sure how to use it. I thought you just open it and pump the pedal making sure the master stays full and then when it gets firm you close it and you are done.
Well unless its feather soft and I have a broken return spring then something is not working as pedal sticks to floor and is very very light. Didn't bother starting car to see if it goes into gear yet not sure there is a point until get the pedal right. The fluid shoots out the end of the remote bleeder no problem and none shoots out when I close it so don't see what I am doing wrong. Tried to mityvac a bit and think was seeing quite a bit of air coming out. I will maybe have to keep trying with the mityvac. but forget if I am supposed to use jar or just single line stuck in master.

Any advice is appreciated. I don't see any leakage from slave out of bottom of bellhousing. And master also which is brand new seems fine. I have new slave as well.

HELP ME BEFORE I BURN MY CAR TO THE GROUND!! or at least switch to an auto and be done with these stupid clutches,internal slaves and goofy hydraulics and no I will not take the master out of the car to bench bleed and certainly am not taking the tranny off again. If I do that a 480 is going in an my new twin disc is for sale!

Dj92GTA

iTrader: (3)

Purpose: The main purpose of the pilot bearing is to provide a low-friction support for the end of the transmission's input shaft.

your not gonna see if you have a problem with that bearing until you start the car and push the clutch in when its in neutral


heres a page on one way to bleed the clutch with the vac

http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Ok so what really does it do..if its shot it will make noise?
I got the clutch bleed. The speed bleeder that came with the extended line seems to be a dud. It is crome looking. I replaced it with a speed bleeder I had lying around.
It was brass and not sure brand.It worked great had it bled in 5 minutes . Pedal pressure is good and don't stick to floor no more.

Anyway as said before we made sure the input when thru the spins and we lined it up in the corners of the trans before we pulled it gently together very carefully and it went in very easily. And we did use the tool and it went in and out very easily. And how much is an input shaft anyway for next time???

Dj92GTA

iTrader: (3)

yeah it will be noisy when you push the clutch in.. all other times the flywheel and clutch will be together

fire it up and drive it around now al !