hey guys i need help performing the drill mod on T56
06-09-2007, 12:19 PM
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hey guys i need help performing the drill mod on T56 hi guys i was just getting ready to perform the drill mod today on my car and i thought i would start off first by disconnecting the quick disconnect fitting but i keep trying to push the plastic ring in but its just not doing anything and i dont want to break it either, i also tried looking for the bleeder screw on top of the bell housing and i cant even find that either, wow i hope i can atleast bleed out my old clutch fluid can somebody give me any tips or help on what they would do if they were in my situation. thanks guys
06-09-2007, 06:54 PM
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I have already done two drill mods (my SS and and friend's SS), and I just finished my 2nd clutch install last weekend. Maybe I can help you.
The plastic ring is already "broken", in that has a diagonal split in it so that the ring can "expand" into the disconnect fitting when pushed. SO you can't break it in that sense. I used a pair of pliers as leverage, holding them flat-wise against the lip of the plastic ring and pushing towards the transmission. It takes a little bit more force than you may be anticipating, due to the pressure in the system.
The bleeder nut is recessed into a rectangular hole directly above the disconnect fitting. It is a 11mm fitting. I used a 1/4" drive and 11mm deep socket. Put the socket on first, then attach the 1/4" drive.
While bleeding the system, you will have some fluid run into the socket and down the drive attachment, so be prepared with some clean rags.
Good luck.
The plastic ring is already "broken", in that has a diagonal split in it so that the ring can "expand" into the disconnect fitting when pushed. SO you can't break it in that sense. I used a pair of pliers as leverage, holding them flat-wise against the lip of the plastic ring and pushing towards the transmission. It takes a little bit more force than you may be anticipating, due to the pressure in the system.
The bleeder nut is recessed into a rectangular hole directly above the disconnect fitting. It is a 11mm fitting. I used a 1/4" drive and 11mm deep socket. Put the socket on first, then attach the 1/4" drive.
While bleeding the system, you will have some fluid run into the socket and down the drive attachment, so be prepared with some clean rags.
Good luck.
06-10-2007, 04:43 AM
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i really appriciate you helping me with my problem u really summed it up for me i thought my plastic ring was messed up or somthin but i guess its normal and the bleeder screw u said it is directly above that fitting well i fill giv it a try, can you giv me any tips on how i would know wat the bleeder would feel lik or somethin. thanks alot i appriciate your response
06-10-2007, 09:03 AM
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You can't feel the bleeder. I had a hell of a time trying to find it. Just look directly above it for a hole, then stick the socket in that hole. It usually finds its way onto the bleeder fine.
06-10-2007, 09:22 AM
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Car parts stores lend and sell a simple hydraulic release tool specifically for the slave cylinder line disconnect. It's $5 to rent or buy from autozone and it releases the line within seconds. I tried getting it off with other hand tools and wouldn't bother doing it without the specific tool now.
06-10-2007, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Z28M6
Car parts stores lend and sell a simple hydraulic release tool specifically for the slave cylinder line disconnect. It's $5 to rent or buy from autozone and it releases the line within seconds. I tried getting it off with other hand tools and wouldn't bother doing it without the specific tool now.
06-10-2007, 06:45 PM
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damm i wish i knew they had a special tool for the hydralic hose, ill go rent that tool from autozone if they have it or ill buy it but ok. o my god i think i just realized where that damm bleeder is right now wow i never thought that would be the bleeder i thought that was a vent or something dammm imma gonna start on that thing today and now i am gonna do the drill mod tooo. wow thanks guys they never said this kinda info on installuniversity.com thanks guys ill let you guys know how it goes
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06-11-2007, 08:07 AM
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Yes, please let us know how it went.
I found it best to remove the master cylinder with everything attached. You only need to take your time and work the whole unit around to get everything out in one piece. It goes back in with the same amount of effort. Be sure to flush and bench bleed your hydraulics as this is the best opportunity you will ever have. Bench bleeding is best done with 3 hands.
One more bit of advice when drilling the orifice. Because only a tiny amount of metal needs to be removed, I recommend a 7/64th drill instead of the 1/8 (or larger) others have used. What happens with the bigger drill is you lose the feel of where you are in the line. Too deep and you will damage or ruin it plus the larger drill is actually removing material that strengthens the metal fitting to hose bond.
I can't provide a workable link to ls1camaro.net which provided the best (IMHO) instructions but here's a small extract that I think explains the actual drilling. These instructions claim the orifice is about an inch down. I found it to be more or less but with the smaller drill you will be able to feel for yourself. Otherwise you will only know where the fitting begins and not the actual restricting orifice.
=== quote from ls1camaro.net
7. Insert the drill bit of your choice - the magazines say that 1/8 will
fit but this WILL drill some of the fitting also, I used 7/64 which
slides past the fitting to the restrictor. It's good to have an idea
where the restrictor is in the line before you go nuts with the drill.
It should be about an inch in just past the compression sleeve for the
fitting. The restrictor is about 1/4 inch long and very soft so it
doesn't take much to drill it out use slow speeds to reduce the amount of
metal shavings.
I found it best to remove the master cylinder with everything attached. You only need to take your time and work the whole unit around to get everything out in one piece. It goes back in with the same amount of effort. Be sure to flush and bench bleed your hydraulics as this is the best opportunity you will ever have. Bench bleeding is best done with 3 hands.
One more bit of advice when drilling the orifice. Because only a tiny amount of metal needs to be removed, I recommend a 7/64th drill instead of the 1/8 (or larger) others have used. What happens with the bigger drill is you lose the feel of where you are in the line. Too deep and you will damage or ruin it plus the larger drill is actually removing material that strengthens the metal fitting to hose bond.
I can't provide a workable link to ls1camaro.net which provided the best (IMHO) instructions but here's a small extract that I think explains the actual drilling. These instructions claim the orifice is about an inch down. I found it to be more or less but with the smaller drill you will be able to feel for yourself. Otherwise you will only know where the fitting begins and not the actual restricting orifice.
=== quote from ls1camaro.net
7. Insert the drill bit of your choice - the magazines say that 1/8 will
fit but this WILL drill some of the fitting also, I used 7/64 which
slides past the fitting to the restrictor. It's good to have an idea
where the restrictor is in the line before you go nuts with the drill.
It should be about an inch in just past the compression sleeve for the
fitting. The restrictor is about 1/4 inch long and very soft so it
doesn't take much to drill it out use slow speeds to reduce the amount of
metal shavings.
