View Poll Results: Which Clutch would be better
Spec Stage 3+
47
38.52%
Textralia
75
61.48%
Voters: 122. You may not vote on this poll
Spec 3+ or Textraila
#1
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Spec 3+ or Textraila
I have a Heads and Cam Transam that I am converting from an Auto to a 6speed and I am stuck between either a Spec 3+ or a Textralia clutch.
I am putting down about 420hp now through a SS4000 converter...
I am putting down about 420hp now through a SS4000 converter...
#2
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Been there done that. Save yourself some time money and agervation. I have gone through a spec 2 and 5. Now running the Textralia, GREAT clutch! Spend a bit more now and be done with it. You will not be sorry.
Hit up Byunspeed sponsor here on the site can set up up with the Textralia
Hit up Byunspeed sponsor here on the site can set up up with the Textralia
#3
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Been there done that. Save yourself some time money and agervation. I have gone through a spec 2 and 5. Now running the Textralia, GREAT clutch! Spend a bit more now and be done with it. You will not be sorry.
Hit up Byunspeed sponsor here on the site can set up up with the Textralia
Hit up Byunspeed sponsor here on the site can set up up with the Textralia
exactly what i would say
I've run Spec 3's for a while
I put in the Text and love it....great pedal feel...use stock master and slave
Byunspeed all the way!!
#4
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What they said , Textralia . Bought mine from Byunspeed also .
Also get yourself a speed bleeder from Carl @ LPP aka black2002ws6 .
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...remote+bleeder
Also get yourself a speed bleeder from Carl @ LPP aka black2002ws6 .
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...remote+bleeder
#6
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I wonder how many people vote for Tex that A) don't have one; B) Have never driven a car with one; C) Are just regergitating the current trend on this message board.
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
I'm sure you'll be happy with either, but I know the SPEC 3+ was expensive enough for poor ol me!
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
I'm sure you'll be happy with either, but I know the SPEC 3+ was expensive enough for poor ol me!
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#8
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Tex 0z700, 7k miles on it, feels like stock holds like a ****....I have about 100 track passes on it on drs. Slip it all day and it begs for more. Ive had a CF dual pooper, and a spec 3+, and this tex is the whip.
#9
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Textralia from WS6STORE was great. I have had mine since feb 07. Great clutch, this is not a fair comparision..like apples to oranges. And spec 3 and 420 HP not really a good idea, I would go spec 3+ or spec 4 or 5. But then why not get a txt. I like mine a lot.
#11
I use a 10.5 in ram disk with a stock lining and a CF II cover with a 45 lbs flywheel on my 55 Chevy. I leave the line at 7200 rpm with slicks using a mild 283. I have never had any problems with the clutch going out or burning up when the car is geared correctly. If you guys are having problems burning up clutches, like DFs, you may do well to consider proper gearing. The LS or LT motors have far more torque than my 283 so the heavy flywheel may not be necesary. If the clutch does not slip when you punch it in high gear on the highway, the clutch is not the problem.
A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
#12
I have over 20,000 miles on my Textralia clutch. It has been completely trouble free. I drive it just like I would drive any other standard. I slip the clutch in traffic to take off nice and smooth. I also beat on it like it owes me something, launching on drag radials in both a heavy assed GTO and now in my TA and power shift it with the spray. Hell, I even let my girl friend drive it quite a bit. Put simply, the clutch isn't even a concern of mine.
Next, look at customer service. In the event you do have problems, Textralia will bend over backwards to make the situation right for you the customer. Put simply, they feel their name is worth more than a clutch, and have proven it time and again. Do a search for Spec's customer service an I feel you will get a completely different picture. They will have you send the clutch in and then will try a way to blame you the customer, be it you didn't install the clutch correctly (don't know how so many people can screw up a simple procedure), didn't break it in correctly (no break in with Textralia), or you slipped their "racing" clutch too much.
I understand a clutch is a wear item that I will eventually have to replace again. When the time comes, I will only look at Textralia...though I may go twin disk next time.
Galen
Next, look at customer service. In the event you do have problems, Textralia will bend over backwards to make the situation right for you the customer. Put simply, they feel their name is worth more than a clutch, and have proven it time and again. Do a search for Spec's customer service an I feel you will get a completely different picture. They will have you send the clutch in and then will try a way to blame you the customer, be it you didn't install the clutch correctly (don't know how so many people can screw up a simple procedure), didn't break it in correctly (no break in with Textralia), or you slipped their "racing" clutch too much.
I understand a clutch is a wear item that I will eventually have to replace again. When the time comes, I will only look at Textralia...though I may go twin disk next time.
Galen
#13
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I have 10k on my Textralia OZ700 and it works just like new. No chatter and easy engagement. My car puts out 450rwhp and Im going to be spraying it with a 150 shot. Im not the least bit concerned with the clutch having any issues for quite a while. I also believe that the spec 3+ is a good clutch but for the differance in cost I would do it right the first time and go with the Textralia.
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Do it right the first time and get a Textralia clutch. Byunspeed rocks!
I made the mistake by not getting a Textralia the first time (wish I had).
Best performance clutch I've ever had in any vehicle.
I made the mistake by not getting a Textralia the first time (wish I had).
Best performance clutch I've ever had in any vehicle.
#17
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I've had the Spec3 but not the 3+ and currently run the textraila. Both are great clutches, but feel completely different in my opinion. The textralia feels like stock, and if I my car was a daily driver than that's the one that I would choose.
#18
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my spec 3+ has been good but just slipped the clutch on a 6200 rpm launch on a 125 dry shot that sprays forward and then comes back in as the engine breaths it back in. Kinda like a delay so I have to launch high to not bog even on the spray because of a aluminum flywheel. I was on 26x10x15 M/T slicks.
Like said earlier that you need a little slip somewhere, better the tires then the clutch and these tires did not give at no problem raceway. THat track hooks .
I am putting my iron flywheel back in and am going to try to sand the glaze off the disk and lightly sand the pressure plate side to break it in again with the iron flywheel. If it starts to slip again then I may try the tex or just go th350. Not looking forward to the later but dont want to keep spending 500 + on clutches every year.
Like said earlier that you need a little slip somewhere, better the tires then the clutch and these tires did not give at no problem raceway. THat track hooks .
I am putting my iron flywheel back in and am going to try to sand the glaze off the disk and lightly sand the pressure plate side to break it in again with the iron flywheel. If it starts to slip again then I may try the tex or just go th350. Not looking forward to the later but dont want to keep spending 500 + on clutches every year.
#20
Textralia twin here. I blew mine up...! I got in touch with Textralia and they had it repaired and back to me in less than 2 wk's. This thing grips like hell and is very street freindly. As far as Twin disc clutch's go it's a pretty good bargain also.