dug

iTrader: (10)

I only had this problem when using nittos. Is it the clutch fluid boiling that causes the pedal to stick to the floor or is it something else. I was thinking if this was the case clutch fluid with a higher boiling pt might help. Also because the stock clutch slips so much it creates more heat causing the fluid to boil.

Or is it something else?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

The Nittos are stickier than your clutch is able to hold.

dug

iTrader: (10)

I know but it shouldnt effect pedal height. If a cable clutch slips the pedal dosent go to the floor like hydrualic clutches. Im thinkin that the clutch fluid is boiling similar to brake fluid boiling when it when the brakes get too hot.

Even though the stock clutch is weak it eventually locks up after some slip. This doesnt bother me because its easier on the 10bolt and driveshaft.

Anyway, Im thinking that modding the clutch hydraulics and using clutch fluid with a higher boiling pt will keep the clutch pedal from sticking to the floor. The last time I raced with nittos the clutch pedal would stick to the floor by the 2-3 gear change making it impossible to disengage the clutch for the shift. Also, using the stock clutch might allow the 4.10s to live in a 10bolt with nittos while the higher gears will make it easier on the clutch.

THis would be alot cheaper than buying the 12bolt and hd driveshaft.

dug

iTrader: (10)

UP

Is this a stupid question or does nobody know the answer?

critter

iTrader: (9)

Well, I haven't had my LS1 clutch pedal stick, but in the old days, it was the diaphram going over center and usually associate with elevated (comared to stock) RPMs. Our solutioni was Borg&Beck. Now I discover that diaphram clutches are the hot setup for LS1s ... I did discover on one of the mfg sites that you need to have an adjustable master cylinder and adjust the pedal for engagement as close to the floor as practical, so apparently the problem is not really solved today.
It certainly can't hurt. I've read where the restrictor mod (in the hose) fixed the stuck pedal for some. I saw a home brew adjustable MC somewhere. Don't remember where, but basically it involved cutting the shaft, threading it 3/8x24 and using a female heim joint to replace the cut length.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

You're right, it shouldn't affect pedal height, my bad.

Perhaps higher temp fluid would help.

dug

iTrader: (10)

When a clutch slips it generates a lot of heat. Looks like a stronger clutch helps the pedal prob by slipping less and creating less heat to boil the fluid.

When I launched the car at 4k with nittos and 3.42 gears the clutch held the motor at 4k and locked up when the car got up to the speed of 4k in first gear. That must of really heated up the clutch. The funny thing is though I dont know if a sticker clutch would have helped my 60ft time. The clutch held the engine around peak torque and didnt shock the tires to make them spin.

I could see how a better clutch might help when launching at a higher rpm. Say launching at 6k and have a clutch strong enough to bring the rpms down to 4k, this would use 2k rpms worth of flywheel energy to help the launch. But you wouldnt want too strong of clutch that would bog the motor.

Obviously the car needs more gear. It only cut a 1.92 short time with a 4k launch and a 1.96 with a 3k launch. The launch was very smooth and steady. I think 4.10s would survive as long as theres no wheelhop.

Stick only

It is all a function of RPM and clutch finger position. When the fingers travel below the centerline of their mounting position, at higher RPM the centrifugal force acts on the fingers and causes them to suck inward, until the engine RPM drops sufficiently for the pressure of the clutch to overcome the centrifugal force.