lwclsswhitetrash

On my 95 T/A, I installed A brand new clutch, pressure plate, throwout, but no pilot. It came with the set, but me and my buddies were unsure of how to get it out. Also I had resurfaced the flywheel. I even installed a new slave cylinder.

After I put everything together, the car will not move. I can shift into a gear, but it will not move...also I have barly any resistance on the clutch pedal. I bled ALL the air out with a mity vac.

any ideas what it could be?

CW00BlackTA

iTrader: (31)

Need more information. So, you can start the car with the clutch pedal depressed and when you release the pedal nothing happens?

Black99T\A

iTrader: (17)

Is your driveshaft hooked up lol jk I was wondering the same thing^^^^ when you release the clutch pedal nothing happens at all?

lwclsswhitetrash

yes the car starts fine, pedal needs some help via foot coming back up, then i will press the clutch pedal down to go into first, and its sorta wants to move just a hair, then doesnt do anything. I can have it in first and not be moving at all, and I dont even need to have my clutch pedal down to keep it alive, it just stays in nuetral....?

Ive been told that possibly the flywheel had to much material taken off and that could be the problem, But ive been told by 2 mechanics that the master needs to be replaced

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

For it to not make any contact at all and not shudder or make any noise is strange and I dont think you can remove that much material from the flywheel.

I do know that when I did my clutch I bled all the air out with a Mighty Vac and it wouldnt go into gear, so I bled more, and more, and more and eventually it went into gear...barely. After driving itfor 50 miles or soit was alot smoother and shifted no problem.I would repeat the bleeding process and see where that gets you.

CW00BlackTA

iTrader: (31)

OK, back to basics. All the hydraulics do when you press the clutch pedal is force the throwout into the PP springs to release pressure. If the pedal isn't depressed, you should have connection between your engine and transmission. Based on what you've told us, that's not the case and something is forcing the PP to stay in the release position. Sounds like maybe your throwout bearing is hung up some how.

How did the installation go? Did the transmission slide right into place? Have you ever changed out a clutch before? Just trying to better understand your problem.

lwclsswhitetrash

installation went just fine, Ive never done one before, so I had a friends whos done a fewclutches before( not on fbodys though) assemble the clutch together,and I trust him. Its not possible to install it backwards though is it? lol

Black99T\A

iTrader: (17)

when you installed the PP did you all make sure that your torqued everything to spec, I think its like 24 lbs on the pressure plate for an LT1 car, not for sure but I know its around there somewhere, dont know if that would have anything to do with it.

lwclsswhitetrash

Foolishly I did not use a torque wrench, but I did put as much muscle on them as possible. I think I read on here in another thread about the possibility of things not hooking up because of improperly torqued bolts

Black99T\A

iTrader: (17)

I think that might be your problem right there. your flywheel should be torqued to 74lbs and the PP on your car should be torqued to around 24lbs or so cant remember, but that not much torque at all really so it woulnt take very much muscle at all to torque your PP if it was done correctly. I dont know if this is your prob. but it sounds to me like it could diff. have something to do with it.

BALLSS

22 ft lbs on the PP for a LT1 clutch...not 23, 24 or more.

if you tightened them as you said "Foolishly I did not use a torque wrench, but I did put as much muscle on them as possible."......most likely way more than 22 ft lbs.

clutch will not disengage if PP bolts are to tight. Unfortunately you will have to drop tranny and bell housing to re torque the PP bolts...use lock tite on them

flywheel bolts are 74 ft lbs..use lock tite on them to.

lwclsswhitetrash

hmm ok,thanks for your input guys! It sounds logical that It would be the torque problem.

I mean, how does a master cylinder randomly go bad!?

DarkCloud

if the bolts were over tightened, wouldn't that make the pp grip the friction disc even harder though??

BALLSS

yes it will...to the point it won't disengage

The PP needs to "float" away from the disc to allow it to disengage. The height of the PP hat and length of the PP bolts for the LT1 pull clutch are designed such that the TQ on the bolts is 22 ft lbs which allows the PP ring to be pulled away from the disc.

every fastener on a car has a "spec" tq. In most cases over or under tightening just means how well the part is "held" on. PP bolts, among many others, has a enginered tq spec to allow the PP to be held where it needs to be and function.

A $15 Haynes service book is helpfull with TQ info...or a FSM

DarkCloud

by disengage you mean release the clutch disc right?

BALLSS

....................yes

DarkCloud

alright.. i ask, because i just put a new clutch disc in (ram stage 4 w/my old spec stage 3 pp and fidanza flywheel, nothings resurfaced because i am more than broke) and my clutch engaugement is high, and the clutch doesnt grab like it should.... so i was just making sure over torquing couldnt be my problem....

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

Dark...you problem might be the master cylinder. I don't know what hydralic's you've upgraded, but an adj master would be a big help

DarkCloud

i have adj master cylinder, all new hydraulics (less than 10k) its not an engagement/disengagement problem, the clutch drives alright.. i have about a quarter inch of free play (i set it like that.. cause if i use fact. spec free play the pedal literally catches at the top) it just slips some times in 6th on the highway, and when i try to launch i have to feather the pedal to get the clutch to stop slipping. i am going to get a ram pp, and a new friction surface for my flywheel, then get it all back together.. i think that will do the trick.


but back to the original post. my best advice is... dont think of it as the tq. is definately the problem.. not saying that it isn't.. but when you take the tranny out take extra care to inspect EVERYTHING you do and make sure it is right. it would suck to think that is the problem, drop everything, then get it back together, and it still not be right.

lwclsswhitetrash

well the part that sucks is everything seemed good and I put all the new stuff in and everything back together. I just bought a master cylinder that should come in monday, so we'll see how it goes