Z400Racr90

I recently needed a new clutch so picked out a kit and purchased it. I had my flywheel resurfaced at the same time and purchased a new 01-02 slave cylinder with TOB and RAM adjustable master, as well as a new pilot bearing. We bled the system with a mityvac. The first time i drove the car it acted perfect from what i have read on here. It went into all gears easily and engaged very close to the floor. The more i started driving it for the break-in it got harder and harder to put in gear. The pedal pressure faded a little bit and now it is undrivable. The clutch has 150 miles on it and simply doesnt work. While the car is started you cannot put it into gear and if it is in gear it will move even with the pedal fully depressed. I am at a loss here...I have tried bleeding it again and again without using the bleeder on the slave (dont know if this is a neccesity), and adjusted the clutch pedal out to no avail. Any help suggestions would be grealty appreciated as i start back to school in a week and need the car for my daily transportation.

Ben

Z400Racr90

Anyone?

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

Thats weird. I had a car that moved when I started it. Turns out the place I bought it from gave me the wrong clutch. You could check that but either way it sounds like you have to pull the tranny again. It definitely sounds like the clutch is faulty.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

In truth it could be several things. The most obvious would be hydraulic...because the car worked fine intially. It shifted as it should and you drove it so the clutch kit functioned, but now it is not, and I would bet that there is a difference in pedal feel too, correct?If so then you may still have air in the lines. You mention that the pedal was low initially, which may indicate the need for a shim behind the slave cylinder (or flywheel as other companies suggest)...I am not sure whose clutch you are using but it would be worth checking this if you cannot improve the actuation by bleeding the hydraulics. You also mentioned using the stock flywheel. Was it resurfaced? If so, how much material was taken off? Had it been resurfaced before? If the flywheel was cut too thin it will cause the pedal to be low (even if you have a shim installed)...and this would lead to issues with release as well. That being said, check it out and let us know what you find and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Agreed that it is likely a hydraulic issue. Since the clutch worked initially & you have an adjustable master (good choice), which has been adjusted with no improvement, then there's either grease all over your clutch plate or air in the system. Try using the bleeder on the slave. I don't know how else you'd be removing air from the slave. you'd only be removing air from the feed line from the master to the slave.

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

why would the car move from there being no pressure in the lines. I dont know how the clutch was installed and he also said the clutch did not work huh wouldnt that mean the clutch is bad or not the right one. The pressure fading I agree is probably air in the system. But why the car moves?

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

pull the tranny in then if you still cant find the problem then post it. Go over your steps make sure everything is right.

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

i had the same exact problem and symptoms. did you put threadlock on the flywheel bolts? if not....the bolts may be backing them selves out slowly, which would explain why it started fine and is slwoly getting worse. thats how mine was....started finea nd gradually got undriveable. this may be your problem.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Is this some kind of statement agianst my thread? I can't tell because your thread is written in jibberish. The clutch is always engaged until the slave cylinder pushes against the pressure plate in order to dissengage the clutch. The clutch could work initially with air in the lines & eventually fade out as the air collects in one area & is no longer distributed throughout the oil. The car does not go into gear now because the slave cylinder is not able to push the pressure plate to dissengage the clutch, if air is the problem. Again, the car moves because the clutch is normally engaged. He also said that the slave cylinder has not been blead because they are not using the slave cylinder bleeder when bleeding the system. So, until the system is properly blead, the symptoms lead to air in the slave cylinder.

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

Yes I am disagreeing with you. I told him to pull his tranny before he screws up his car. It could be bolts, pressure, etc. We dont know. So pull the tranny is my advice once again and check your flywheel bolts was a good point. Check everything. It is better to be safe rather than sorry. Tell us if something looks funny. Stoppp the guesssingggg!!!!

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

What a



Z400Racr90,
Good-luck with the clutch problem.

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

wow glad to see you are nice. Newbie maybe to the website but not to cars. You dont frustrate me. Thats a cute car you have I can see you know a lot hmmmmmmmm about style hahhahahhaaa . Sparkly it is.

Z400Racr90

The clutch is a Zoom Stage 2 setup. The flywheel was machined to the lowest point on it, it had never been cut before. The clutch did not have shims included in the box and i could not contact Zoom because there email wouldnt work and i work during their hours so contact by phone wasnt an option. I installed the clutch myself with the help of a friend, it went pretty smoothly, i wasnt at all impressed with the clutch disk itself because it was the right diameter but it seemed very thin and was advertised to come with kevlar buttons, which i could not see at all when it arrived. I will check the pressure plate bolts and such, i did not install the PP as i was getting the tranny ready to be put back in. Thanks for all the suggestions.

BTW LS1-450, looks like a very stout little car you have there, i bet it is a blast to drive and surprises the hell out of tools who make fun of the exterior....lol

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

Miatas are stupid. The camaro has history and that stupiddd car does not deserve to have any part of it. Well I feel better with that said. Tool hahha. you guys make me laugh at how bad you.20 bucks says that you installed everything wrong. Theres my answer! You should sell your ls1 and get a miata fagot.

Z400Racr90

Yeah your right its all installed wrong, because a clutch isnt straight forward enough....You seem to have stout mod list but need a serious driver mod...12.5 with those mods....i run 12.7 with my mods on bald BFG G-Force KDWS tires....
Come on man, hot rodding was never brand or model limited. It takes alot more ingenuity to do full drivetrain swaps and such than to simply bolt pieces on a car and call it fast....whatever happened to "to each their own" and such phrases? It really irritates me that i show passion for the same automobile as simple close minded people like you.

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

My car will eat your car and **** it out. Including me driving. My threads were almost showing in that run also had cats on the car and a lot of backpressure(can show you pics of exhuast if needed). Havn't done it since. I was simply trying to help you and then I was jumped on. That is cool with me im a newbie Everyone starts somewhere. Your list is right next to mine. All I have is a babie babie cam. So it looks like you suck at driving. 12.5 is pretty ****** good by the way on shitty tires. Glad to see you know your times. Oh and did we forget about trap speed 115mph. Oh and you also need money for driveline swaps. Oh and let me define that being a waste of money when we cant already get a nasty lookin ss with the ls1. That miata cost way more than my car and looks stupid period. Bet you pick up a lot of chicks in it. Are you going to put an ls1 on a go kart next hahaha. Point made! Please just stop you suck im smarter and faster.

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

cammedss2000, i see youre from charlotte. maybe you should drive to to spartanburg one night and see if you can handle some of the cars we have if you think youre so big and bad. isnt zues performance up there around charlotte somewhere? i REALLY hope you arent affiliated with those guys bc if you are, youre REALLLLLY making a good group of people look bad!

SladeX

Back to the initial topic of the thread, **** disturb somewhere else.

LSx clutches are always engaged, the slave disengages them. Simple concept. Now what he's described sounds more hydraulic than anything. Pressure plate bolts backing off are a possibility IF loctite wasn't used or if the pressure plate was painted in the bolt holes and it backed off due to that.

I'd bleed the clutch good and see if it improves or not. Try this test out, disconnect the master from the slave via the hydraulic line and try to push the master. It SHOULDN'T compress. Don't force it either. If you can still push the pedal down even 1/4, 1/2 or completely, you either have air in the line or it's leaking. Lite compression may indicate air, half to full compression of the master means leak.

If that is not the problem, then there may be air in the slave or it's shot, but it'd usually leak if it's gone. Try a bleed. If you've tested and bled and it still doesn't work, transmission needs to be pulled. Something's up with the clutch.

cammedss2000

iTrader: (1)

Maybe we should race!

Z400Racr90

I appreciate it Slade, im going to try that trick with disconnecting the master and see what happens. Now that im home and have access to my lift once again, it should make things alot easier...