sticky pedal!!! and Transmission advice
#1
sticky pedal!!! and Transmission advice
I have 1999 Z28 Camaro has a few things done to it...SLP long tube header...SLP Exhaust...Gigalotti air box....SLP ultra Z hood...but anyways the problem is when i kick down on it the clutch pedal will push out and when i go to go in the next gear i push the clutch down and it will just stick to the floor....i will have to take my foot and put it under the clutch pedal and pull it up and pump the clutch pedal to get pressure back in the line....it will act up also if Rev it up sittin still in neutral, the pedal will push out and after i push it in it will go spongy but not all the way down, just "spongy"....i am also lookin to either buy a bad *** brand new transmission or rebuild the stock one thats in it, i want to upgrade it but im not much of mechanic, just a body man, i really dont kno what direction to head in...but to fix the spongy clutch pedal my friend says i need a pressure plate and throwout barrins...ive heard about a drill mod and looked at doin it but im not sure if thats it or not....plz someone help me out here...Thanks
#2
What's up. I'm no mechanic, but I've had these issues before. I would say that your problem is in the hydrolics. I would check the hydrolic fluid resevior to see if it's low and the condition of the fluid. A nice fluid swap and bleed would be a good start. I would wrap the hydrolic line with some heat resistant tape to prevent your headers from cooking the fluid. That was what cured my "spongy" pedal after I would beat on the car or just rev the engine like a mad man. If your fluid is low, I would check under the bellhousing and around the master cylinder (in and out of the car) for leaks. But if your low on fluid, I would say there is a problem other than air in the line or cooking the fluid. Good luck.
#4
You can try to bleed it but that usually dosent work....at least not the 4 I've seen. If it fails to work you MOST replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder at the SAME time. The reason for that is because you dont know witch one is causing the problem. In my case I started at the slave and it worked right for a week then started again. The master cylinder failed at that point. My buddy started at the slave as well and it was not the problem it was his master also. Since the problem was the master there was debree in his lines that did not come out when we flushed becase it was stuck in there, that ended up inside his new slave cylinder and needed to do it all over again. So thats why its a MUST to do at the same time. Good luck I hope this helps. Check the stickeys for more info.
#5
I had this happen to me recently, turns out when I bled it at the beginning of the season, some air got stuck in the system. At the time, 2 things worked against me here, first was accidental pump of the clutch with the bleeder open. Second was the reservoir going empty.
Thought I had all the air out after bleeding it for half an hour, car drove ok, tracked fine through the 1-4 gears under WOT. It wasn't till a month later when I tried a highway pull in 3rd and 4th that the pedal "stuck" to the floor. Tried another bleed, fluid was clean. Had no clue what was going on. During dyno tuning, kept sticking. Was ready to go get a new slave, but figured before I do that I'll buy a mityvac and try it out. First time out, grabbed a good amount of air from the system. After numerous sessions with the mity, it finally is normal again. I'd try a normal bleed first followed by a mityvac.
Thought I had all the air out after bleeding it for half an hour, car drove ok, tracked fine through the 1-4 gears under WOT. It wasn't till a month later when I tried a highway pull in 3rd and 4th that the pedal "stuck" to the floor. Tried another bleed, fluid was clean. Had no clue what was going on. During dyno tuning, kept sticking. Was ready to go get a new slave, but figured before I do that I'll buy a mityvac and try it out. First time out, grabbed a good amount of air from the system. After numerous sessions with the mity, it finally is normal again. I'd try a normal bleed first followed by a mityvac.
#6
Well I have checked my fluid plenty of times and replaced it with DOT 4 fluid...it seems to kinda sorta help the pedal return but doesnt completely.....but im defintley gonna try the mityvac...i was reading on here about drill mod thingy..thought bout tryin it after the mityvac....do u all kno any good ideas on a new transmission? or ideas on a rebuild??...but thanxs for the help, greatly appreciated ill keep u all posted on what happens
#7
Well I have checked my fluid plenty of times and replaced it with DOT 4 fluid...it seems to kinda sorta help the pedal return but doesnt completely.....but im defintley gonna try the mityvac...i was reading on here about drill mod thingy..thought bout tryin it after the mityvac....do u all kno any good ideas on a new transmission? or ideas on a rebuild??...but thanxs for the help, greatly appreciated ill keep u all posted on what happens