is my clutch fluid boiling?
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is my clutch fluid boiling?
under wot and quick shifting, i can go through first and into second fine, but when i press the clutch and take it out of second, it wont go into third without having to use hulk strength. if i leave it in neutral and pump the clutch about 3 times its completely fine. is my clutch fluid boiling or do i need a better clutch?
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bleeding would be a good start. one thing i'm going to try is using a heat wrap, like people put on headers, around the clutch line going from the master to the slave. the fluid DOES get hot, and putting that wrap on it may help out....i just don't have a motor in the car yet, so i haven't tried it...
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#11
i thought there was some sort of master cylinder "drill mod" on the hose that sends the fluid to the tranny. it stops you from shifting into third because of a lack of fluid. search for it. ive heard people talk about it.
edit: went and found you a link showing the "drill mod" https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=969651&page=2
edit: went and found you a link showing the "drill mod" https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=969651&page=2
Last edited by twitchtwice; 11-02-2008 at 12:40 AM.
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so a drill mod is just larger lines for the fluid to go through? and why would GM put lines on a LS1 powered car that inhibits it from going as fast as possible in a straight line?
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under wot and quick shifting, i can go through first and into second fine, but when i press the clutch and take it out of second, it wont go into third without having to use hulk strength. if i leave it in neutral and pump the clutch about 3 times its completely fine. is my clutch fluid boiling or do i need a better clutch?
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Ha, some people say the restriction in the line was to help protect the 10 bolt from the M6!
I had the same problem for months with a new master, new slave, and the drill mod done. Bleeding the line didn't help either but then the problem just went a away and it's been shifting fine. Maybe an air bubble finally worked it's way up to the top. That probably doesn't help you much but just sharing what fixed mine (apparently doing nothing worked well lol).
I had the same problem for months with a new master, new slave, and the drill mod done. Bleeding the line didn't help either but then the problem just went a away and it's been shifting fine. Maybe an air bubble finally worked it's way up to the top. That probably doesn't help you much but just sharing what fixed mine (apparently doing nothing worked well lol).
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when i bought my car from the original owner 3 months ago the clutch fluid was blacker than the brand new tires. i did the drill mod and flushed it all out with DOT 4 and i still have a problem. it actually seems to be more present than before.
i believe sometimes once the fluid gets bad enough it will start to damage the seals and the master/slave are shot. i want to replace my master first cuz its the cheapest and easiest but i know if the master is bad the slave probably is too. and if im pulling the trans to do the slave i may as well do a clutch too...
i believe sometimes once the fluid gets bad enough it will start to damage the seals and the master/slave are shot. i want to replace my master first cuz its the cheapest and easiest but i know if the master is bad the slave probably is too. and if im pulling the trans to do the slave i may as well do a clutch too...
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i bled my slave and did the drill mod and wrapped the lines with like 3 layers of high heat tape. i also used dot 4 and my fluid stays fresh alot longer now. sometimes the pedel might go down at high rpms but it usually wont the way i drive
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so basically, its either the master, the slave, the lines, or the fluid. so if i change all of those (and like noriceinside said, might as well get a new clutch while im at it) the problem should be fixed?
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That would be everything so yeah that should fix it! Of course you would want to make sure the lines are bled after the install unless you get the master and slave as one piece and its already pre-bled and you don't break any seal.