taws6

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

I would like to add some extra power next year, but am not brilliant mechanically.

I plan next year to add all in one go:

LT headers (With hi flow cats)
Roller rockers 1:8
Pulleys
Synthetic air filter
Tune

I will also be adding Konis, and getting new rotors / pads.

I know a cam would be great, but the install really scares me (too involved), as does the TC install.
I would only ever do DP n2o, FI is too expensive, and heads (obviously) too difficult.

Is there anything else I can do to add an extra 10 - 20 hp?
Thanks for the sugestions.

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

many people here will tell you not to get the RR because cams take care of that and it becomes useless.

i woundnt be scared of a TC, you just drop down the transmission and then unbolt the old one and rebolt the new one. but you will need a tune right after that or all your shift points would be off. if you plan on doing it, i would save it for last, install it, then take it to get tuned immediately.

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

the torque converter is a pretty dramatic increase in performance. however, i would avoid the torque converter just because of fuel prices where you are - the torque converter would kill your fuel mileage whenever the converter clutch is unlocked (stop and go driving).

87gnx

iTrader: (3)

add an extra 10 - 20 hp

Port and polish the throttle body,might be worth a few h.p.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

why not an extra 150-200 hp . NITROUS

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your replys.

I am thinking RR because I just can't see myself ever being able to do a cam swap.

Hmmm, I'm surprised you say that, the write up's I've read make it sound quiet a long, involved job. If it really isn't that difficult an install I may well get one.
1. How long would it take a novice like me to install??

Agreed, it is something I need to consider.
I kind of stopped worrying about fuel costs the day I imported a V8 to the UK! And it is a weekend car, not a DD, so I'm not too worried. Also I dont get too much stop and go driving
2. What kind of gas mileage should I expect?
3. Does it make much performance difference to a street car? (I'm not really into drag racing, I have lots of corners to contend with around here).

Done this with the lid and FTRA, made a nice little differance

Price, as I would only ever risk a DP N2O. Good hp/$$ though.

4. So is it worth me looking at things like EWP, gears or cutout??

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

I say with a good helping hand its maybe a 5 hour job with the proper tools? I havent done it on an ls1/4l60e, but i have done it on my dads 69 twice, dont see how it could be too different. lots of heavy lifting and wrenching but it isnt impossible.

as far as gas mileage, you will maybe see 1-2mpg lost with a stall depending on the size, and driving habbits.

and yes it does make a big difference in a street car. all a stall does is makes the car go to a certain RPM range. so if you powerband in the car is 3500-6000k rpm then you want to get like a 3200 or 3600 so that the stall will put your car in the powerband.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Great reply twitchtwice, you explained that perfectly

I guess once I've done the LT and RR, I will be much more competent mecanicly, and may just brave the TC install.
Thanks for the advise.

I think after about 4 years on here, starting as a compleate novice, I can finally see where I'm heading with my car project.

THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO MAKES LS1 TECH WHAT IS !!

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Don't forget to add the tranny cooler when you do the stall. A shift kit is not mandatory with a stall but will help keep your shifts firm also.

..... and don't do the RR's. They don't do much and you'll eventually have the confidence to do the cam. Seriously, the hardest part is the d@%* crank pulley

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

+1. I wouldnt spend the money on the RRs, unless you plan to take them off later when you get cammed.. Im sure it will hit you, and youll want more power. I think its hit us all!

You can definitly get new gears (Maybe 3.42s-3.73s). Pickin up a set of mikronited gears should help you get a little more power to the ground, as well as added strength and of course the advantages of lower gearing.

Just wondering why you would only run DP N2O? As long as you have the correct setup, and dont go crazy with the shot, its pretty safe.

Oh, and get some suspension mods under that thing *Cough*UMI*Cough* because power means nothing if you cant put it to the ground.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Already noted

I can see where your comming from.
I guess looking very long term (I do plan to keep this car) I may one day be brave enough. (But I can't see it yet!).

I dont want to risk anything, as I'm not capable of putting it all back together, should anything go wrong. And I've read there's no 100% safe N2O.

Yes, some suspension stuff is cheap(ish), but add shipping , insurance, x import (10%), and x VAT (17.5%) on top of all of that , and they soon are very pricey.
I'm toying with the idea of making my own SFC, rear LCA and PHR. (I'm in the process of swapping all bushing over to poly, and may well reinforce the stock pieces somehow).

Well, it sounds like my plans are all in place, thanks for guiding me the right way.
It's nice to actually think I will probably one day have a stalled, cammed V8, and that you can actually believe in a novice
(Surprising how close your advise is to all the stickys I keep reading !! )

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

How would it work if someone were to buy the parts here in the states, and just ship them to you? would you still get hit with all the fees?

wht01ws6ta

iTrader: (45)

Gears will help the fun factor if nothing else and cutouts will add probably 10+ depending on your current exhaust set-up.

I think an electric water pump is worth it, especially if you can find a good deal on one. I didn't dyno it before and after I did mine but there was a noticable difference and the car runs about 5-7 degrees cooler now believe it or not. It was running hotter after an underdrive pulley. You can also have the ability to turn your key on and have the EWP running (which makes the heater work well with engine stopped which is nice IMO) with the car off or you can wire in a switch to turn the EWP on without the ignition even being on.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Pretty much, they may be reduced a bit, as some people very kindly mark the value of the goods as 'a gift' ( ) ,or undervalue the items, which reduces some of the fee. But the cost of shipping is clearly shown, and can you imagine the cost of posting something like SFC to the UK?

There are companies here who will import bits for me, but they want a cut as well, so the cost isn't really much less.

I was always told 'If it's got **** or wheels, it's gonna cost ya', ohhh how true!

Thanks for your input too wht01ws6ta.