I have a 02 ws6 a4 i want to run in the 12s with my stock torque converter if it is possible. Right now i have slp lid, gmmg catback, plugs, and wires i was planing on geting a ram air kit a tune and drag radials. Do you think this will be enuff to get me in the 12s? i know these car run somewere between 13.3 and 13.8 stock. Will a shift kit help any? Thanks for the help.

 

Gears?
Depending on the gears I say keep your lid, and slap on some LT's, ORY, stickies, tune, maybe some TB work= Hello 12's.

 

get a cutout, 373 gears, sticky tires.. you will be in the high 12s easily... set of LTs and you will be mids..

with a stall you will be low 12s..

every bit of weight you take out will help also..

you should be pretty close right now..

 

Yea what these guys said above and you won't need a stall to reach 12's

 

same as these guys said. they pretty much summed it up

 

this has only been discussed 5,000 times...

search.........

 

Better driving you should be there.

 

All you need is a 100 shot of nitrous and some tires that will put you in the mid to low 12's! THATS IT! Why would you spend a lot of money on gears and stuff like that when you can pick up a nice dry shot for like $200.00 if you look around and be done.

I ran 11.40-11.60's all day with a lid, tires, 100-RWHP shot and a 4000 stall. Everything else was completely stock.

Hell I am running low 10's with the stock 10 bolt and stock gears.

 

Last Wed.night i ran 13.36@103 bone stock in a 2002 SS A4 then i did a P&P Throttle body & a Hypertech Tuner ran 12.87 @107 on M/T ET Street Radial's so i would say you don't need much.

 

I did 13.1 @ 106 with my stock ws6 a4, now with lts, ory, catback and lid untuned doing 340rwhp I can expect maybe 12.7 - 12.8 without spinning, and I spent maybe 550 bucks on mods? Or do what someone else suggested, nitrous plus tuning maybe around the same price but even faster (:

 

I ran best of 12.6 @ 110 in an '01 Z28 with a lid, home ported tb, home built 4L60E, pacesetter headers to edelbrock ory to dynomax pipe to hooker aerochamber to stock outlets, Home tuned with HP Tuners, dryed up nitto 450's. The way I drive it everyday.

 

My car ran 12.9 with a lid, magnaflow catback, homemade ramair kit and a crappy dyno tune.

Gears usually show no gains. Headers are a waste without a stall. And I just don't see that you would need DRs as long as the track prep is good. You should be able to run all over 12s right now.

Nitrous is also a good mod for the money, as mentioned above. Especially when street racing with the stock stall.

 

the reason you should put the LT's gears lid and stuff on instead of nitrous is because that gives you a base to build from... then later when you want a cam, you dont have to spend 1k more for all that stuff, all you need is the cam, springs, pushrods...

plus it feels better doing it NA than with nitrous...

i have over 400rwhp through a stalled auto with 410s.. i am installing my nitrous kit as my last power adder... the only thing i have left is a US pulley, some larger injectors (im maxed).. and thats about it..
im in the 10s N/A... so where you are running mid to low 11s with that stuff and nitrous, im running a half second faster on motor... bring nitrous into it for both of us, and it is no longer much of a comparison..

dont get me wrong, i LOVE nitrous (nothing wrong with cheap easy power)... but i would do my base mods THEN nitrous..
plus, when you put a bus length on people and say you were spraying you can tell them to search your whole car to find it... thats more of a pride thing i guess..

i usually agree with most of your posts.. but not this one..

gears are good for almost 2/10s..
headers a waste without a stall? what do you have to back this up with? headers are good for a 20rwhp-30rwhp (depending on a4 or m6) ALL the way across the spread... how could this not help? headers and a cutout have proved gains of 3-5/10s..
i had bad wheelhop with just a lid and LM.... i think a stock car needs drag radials.. ESPECIALLY on street... but even at track.. its not going to hurt..

 

Gears often show now gains at the track. For every person that runs faster with gears there are 10 who didn't change. Gears should really be a last mod. The whole point of gears is to maximize speed vs rpm. So just randomly throwing some gears really isn't the best way to go about it. "Big time" drag racers use gears to make sure they are crossing the line at their desired rpm. Gears make it "FEEL" like your doing something, but rarely do.

As far as headers. On an stock stalled automatic car, at best you'll see maybe a tenth gain and a few MPH. The reason behind that is that headers kill low end power. Which hurts your 60'. You'll gain some back on the big end, but after you subract what you lost out of the hole you usually end up about even in ET with a few extra MPH from the top end pull.

And what's more important at the track? Getting to the finish line first or blowing by the other guy after he's already on the brakes.

And you could use drag radials on the street, sure. And some may need them at the track, but I've cut 1.8 60's on 275/40/17 street radials, dead hooking. It's got a lot to do with track prep. If you need them get them if you don't, then don't. Softer tires mean more rolling resistance. It might not be enough to notice, but it's something. Plus they're more expensive and wear much faster.

 

i did 13.1 with my completely stock 02z28 that has 135 000miles on it: (245 tires and a non functional lsd)

 

[QUOTE=JonCR96Z;10905026]
As far as headers. On an stock stalled automatic car, at best you'll see maybe a tenth gain and a few MPH. The reason up about even in ET with a few extra MPH from the top end pull. QUOTE]

I don't agree with this when i first got my car i ran a 13.4 at 103 and then i put my slp headers with catted y pipe and borla catback and ran a 12.82 at 107. If u do the math i picked up 4 tenths and 4 mph from th header. Other wise the car had the same tires and everything else. So a tenth is not true and if i get a tune i would pick more up from just the headers.

 

There could be exceptions, but I would bet there is more to your times that what you think. Better weather and DA for instance.

Still most stock stall cars get hurt in the 60 with headers, and that's where the majority of the ET comes from. There are more shitty times to prove my theory than good times to disprove it. And numerous dyno graphs to show the power loses down low and gains up high.

 

150 Shot will do it.

 

i dissagree aswell i went fronm 9.50s in the 1/8 to 8.80s with headers

 

Gears and headers, I went from 9.4s to 8.33.

Just sayin.