best cam for a daily driven car
#81
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I am with him on this. Full bolt on cars have been around 400rwhp with the cheater. I ran this cam also awesome power and fast revving great nitrous cam also. Sounded stock also that's why I changed it wanted the lopey sound. I made 420rwhp and 415rwtq with this cam full bolt ons with some crappy ls6 heads. Another member of a local car club made 401rwhp with cam and bolt ons with this cam.
im only at 425rwhp... but run high 10s..
and i bet thats good enough to walk all over a full bolt on car with a cheatR cam.. could be wrong though?
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Are we supposed to be impressed by the fact you claim to run tens with the power level you posted? I was just responding to the OP the debate of dyno numbers meaning nothing can be discussed in the dyno section.
#84
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LOL, this thread went to hell. Anyway I was going to run thr TR224 cam but ended up finding a deal on a TSP 228R. Either of which I have heard are awesome DD cams. But that's not saying anything that has not already been said in this thread.
#85
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Oh and I would also think that what cam would be okay for a DD would also depend on a few other things like A4 vs 6-speed, do you live in the city or country (I.E do you do a lot of bumper to bumper).
#86
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Do you just go around posting negative **** to peoples post? Dyno numbers dont mean anything yet you post yours.
Are we supposed to be impressed by the fact you claim to run tens with the power level you posted? I was just responding to the OP the debate of dyno numbers meaning nothing can be discussed in the dyno section.
Are we supposed to be impressed by the fact you claim to run tens with the power level you posted? I was just responding to the OP the debate of dyno numbers meaning nothing can be discussed in the dyno section.
i was proving a point that dyno numbers dont mean anything, thats why i posted my numbers and what i run..
i never intended for that to impress anyone
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claim to run 10s..
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i think whats being said is that different dynos give diff #s, a mustang is typically 15 less than a regular dynajet. however locally in minnesota theres a dyno that reportedly cranks out #s 25-30 higher than the rest.
#88
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if your worried about cost that worries me because you have to upgrade your springs with any significant change in cams. on the dyno i was dissapointed with the hp of the ls6 cam. i paid for installation. ps i've heard/ seen stock cam & stock springs top out/ bounce / float around 5800 rpm so you cant upgrade the cam without improving the springs. think of it as an insurance policy.
Regardless, Geoff Goddard recommends having the stiffest setup possible on the cam side with your pushrod engine and I know some Pro-Stock guys making the most power with gigantic ridiculous pushrods.
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theres a lot of great advice on here, just thought id say i have a custom grind comp 222/222 563/563 on a 114 and with full bolt ons (borla muffler) and sounded almost 100% stock with that setup (other than the bolt ons of course.) The car made 400 whp and with heads. It sounded like it made about 300whp. it also drives stock. might want to look into custom grind, just call the guys at a cam shop.
#96
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I agree that these threads come up at an annoying rate, but remember everyone has to start somewhere to even be able to have something on which to base an opinion. Unfortunately, it seems impossible to expect people to do any reading at all before asking questions. So, we have this forum is for newbies asking newbie questions. After all, a lot of people seem to like answering newb questions. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
If you haven't ever driven a cammed LS1, or even been in one, then you have nothing on which to base your opinion, other than by listening to others. Most people's advice on here, based on your question, will be to start off with the TR224 on a 114 LSA. This forum is good for getting some ideas, but call Thunder Racing, Vengance, Spped Inc., Texas Speed, etc., etc., etc., to get the pro's opinion. Call 'em all.
My DD has a (Patriot Performance) 225/229 on a 114 in it. It has -1 degree of overlap. Stock cams have like, -15 degrees (or whatever, I forget). Lopey, race cams have like 20-30, even 40+ degrees of overlap. I wanted a cam with around 0 degrees. See sig for formula.
The higher the lift, the more power everywhere, but the harder the cam will be on the springs, etc. If you have a high lift cam, it will require stronger springs, making them somewhat louder. That will also mean you can't just jump in the car on a cold day and drive off without warming it up a bit.
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If you haven't ever driven a cammed LS1, or even been in one, then you have nothing on which to base your opinion, other than by listening to others. Most people's advice on here, based on your question, will be to start off with the TR224 on a 114 LSA. This forum is good for getting some ideas, but call Thunder Racing, Vengance, Spped Inc., Texas Speed, etc., etc., etc., to get the pro's opinion. Call 'em all.
My DD has a (Patriot Performance) 225/229 on a 114 in it. It has -1 degree of overlap. Stock cams have like, -15 degrees (or whatever, I forget). Lopey, race cams have like 20-30, even 40+ degrees of overlap. I wanted a cam with around 0 degrees. See sig for formula.
The higher the lift, the more power everywhere, but the harder the cam will be on the springs, etc. If you have a high lift cam, it will require stronger springs, making them somewhat louder. That will also mean you can't just jump in the car on a cold day and drive off without warming it up a bit.
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OR you could go with the first design LS6 cam (2001).
207/217......525/525....116LSA. No tune required and more power than a stock LS1 cam. Get the late model LS6 springs and you will be good to go.
207/217......525/525....116LSA. No tune required and more power than a stock LS1 cam. Get the late model LS6 springs and you will be good to go.
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What's wrong with having a big cam? It seems like everyones gettin pissed sayin you can't have a huge cam and still be a daily driver. It just depends on what you want. I want a pretty decent sized cam (atleast 236-240) And it will be my daily driver. If you have a good tune I don't see why you couldn't have a huge cam
#100
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What's wrong with having a big cam? It seems like everyones gettin pissed sayin you can't have a huge cam and still be a daily driver. It just depends on what you want. I want a pretty decent sized cam (atleast 236-240) And it will be my daily driver. If you have a good tune I don't see why you couldn't have a huge cam
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as for why people get like that.. it is because they have never DD or been in a big cammed car to see how they really drive.. and are going on what "people say"..
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