CarAteMyMoney

iTrader: (2)

Looking to install some long tubes in my '98 Camaro

What should I bring to my friend's shop so the job will go smoothly?

I've got the headers, about to pick up a Y pipe, and i've got oxy sensors w/ the longer pigtails

Do I need a reducer or something to connect the y pipe to the stock cat back?

conan

iTrader: (5)

Get some new plugs and wires if yours havent been changed lately, new GM exhaust manifold gaskets.. The cat back should slide on the Y pipe.

Optimus_Prime

iTrader: (4)

Get Corvette o2's instead. They are longer. I've never had any o2's last more than a month with the extensions. Like above GET THE STOCK MANIFOLD GASKETS!!! They by far work the best.

Don't forget to bring your patience.

Sabbath87

iTrader: (1)

just got done installing mine. like optimus prime said above, you need to be patient. fitting those headers in will be like a puzzle. there was a couple heat shields i had to take off (7mm socket) and the steering link. idk if thats what it is called but its just 2 bolts, and a pry bar.

i keep hearing to get the gm stock gaskets. i used the ones pacesetter sent.

this may be important: i have a 2000 so i idk if it will be diffrent with the 98s. but on the pass. side, i couldnt remove the very bottom bolt that held the egr hose on the manifold. i tried every combonation of extensions at every angle and coulded get it loose. when i got fed up with it i got the dremel out and cut it off, haha.

moral of the story: plan ahead. if you want to delete the egr then do it durring the install. that way you can save $10 on the headers by getting the ones that dont have a place for the egr (i got pacesetters from texas speed). and you wont have to make plates to block off the egr.

has anyone else had the same problem?

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Not sure if its needed or not, but I have always used RTV high-temp (orange tube) gasket maker around the perimeter of the headers to prevent leaks.

Not sure if its needed with the GM metal-style gaskets or not, but it shouldn't hurt.

camaro981289

iTrader: (25)

The higher you can lift the car off the ground the better...if your jack reaches the maximum height and you need the car higher use a block of wood on the arm. Make sure you also have sum floor jacks(Duh) and like they said above alot of patience. I also disconnected the steering linkage. As far as the exhaust goes if you picked up a aftermarket y pipe(Off-Road Y-pipe) and say its 3" you will need some couplets to connect the y pipe to your headers. i dont remember what the I.D. or o.D. is im assuming either 3 1/4 O.D. if your ypipe is 3 inch. I couldnt find any so i opened up the y pipe a little bit in the ends and got the headers to slide in about 2 inches then i tack welded the som bitches and used U-Clamps on em...the clamps seemed to hold up but as soon as i fired up the car the dam y pipe would fall off. Havent had any problems at all and my exhaust is the 4" mufflex...no exhaust leaks and no exhaust bangiing issues either...im at stock ride height.

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

motor mounts. Might as well go poly while you're at it.

Not just that, but it will prevent the y pipe from banging among other things....

NastyNate65

Ive heard a lot of people change the motor mounts while theyre in there. What are the specific problems with the stock ones and where is the best place to get some new ones?

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

Theres no real problems with them. its just that after a while they start to get old and lose their strength. when that happens, the motor sags a little bit or it won't be able to handle high rpms. When this happens, the ORY starts to hit stuff.

Also, if you decide to wait until later to install new mounts they are gonna be a pain in the *** to install with longtubes on because they get in the way.

If you don't want to pay for poly mounts, I would go OEM to be safe.

EDIT: As far as where to get some, I would imagine Kentucky Speed would have them. I order stuff from them. Great ppl.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

This is very good advice.

I'm not sure what a set of OEM's go for, but the Prothane Poly Motor Mounts on my car were $49.95 from Byunspeed.com. Fifty dollars won't break the bank and if you're gonna go thru the trouble of doing it, you may as well upgrade rather than simply replace.

Good luck.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

You do have to do some grinding & drilling if youre gonna go with the prothane or poly engine mounts. You will have to seperate your stock mount shells & its a little bit of work but its worth it if you have the tools. The polys do a much better job of keeping the motor from flexing a lot. If you change the mounts AFTER you install your headers(like I did) you will have to remove the alternator & a/c compressor. I would do the mounts while the manifolds are off.

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

How I got mine off was take the manifold loose from the head and move it around so I could get to the bolts and it went smooth. It only took me 20 minutes and A LOT of cussing to figure that out LOL.

EDIT: Since noone else mentioned it I will....Jack Daniels needs to be brought, hes my right hand man.

02 35thLE

iTrader: (3)

Did my motor mounts when I put the LT's in. Not that bad of a job. Got my parts from the ws6store

razer900

do the motor mounts. Not all that bad, just take your time at it. I think 75% of the people that have y-pipe banging issues most likely didnt change the mounts. My car had 130,000 miles and the mounts were absolutely pooched. Do them, you wont regret it!
PS, another thing you will need for the install is the double "B".... beer and bandaids, have fun and good luck