Rhauwen

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, been reading up and down this forum non-stop for weeks trying to get together everything I need for a rebuild.
Had the car for 3 months and it decided it wanted to spin a main bearing on me so im looking at a rebuild right now.

What im wondering is YOUR personal opinion on both:

Aluminum LS1 - Smaller Displacement (5.7) but lighter block that disperses heat faster, may run cooler, and i read somewhere is easier to run higher compression

vs

Cast Iron 6.0 - Bigger Displacement (6.0) but more durable block as far as what it can handle, heavier weight, but a few more HP

I don't really have any plans to run forced induction or nitrous right now and don't want to go with a huge boss hog motor (6.2+) but what are the pro's and con's and what would YOU choose.
Or ditch both and save up for an aluminum 6.0
Thanks for reading

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

no boost and no huge power? ls1 hands down...saves ~80lbs or so and you know what you have instead of buying a pullout that you will need to work on to get compression up

Hard Core Z28

Go with a alum 6.0 or 6.2. 402 or 416. Dont put the iron block in unless your going big boost or spray. Save the weight

98RedRocket

rebuild the ls1 and put a big cam in her!

Phynix

iTrader: (3)

save up for a 402ci aluminum block is what I would do

Rhauwen

iTrader: (1)

alum 402 would be my goal, but i just noticed TSP had iron LS1 for like 750 and alum is about 1,100

looks like alum is the way to go, now to just convince myself to save up for the 402, cant find a bare 402 alum block from TSP that's not a rotating assembly i might have to call and see if they can get one for me

As far as boring out alum. blocks, i heard something like .010 or .0010 is the max i can go? my dream block would be a 402 bored out a tiny bit to maybe a 407 or so to make it a 6.66L

Thanks for the reply's

EDIT: nevermind, might as well just go with a 408 and save some money trying to get it bored out

MattxFatal

iTrader: (4)

We all know that both blocks can be built to handle what you want to throw at it within reason.
However the cast iron block is going to be stronger out of the gate.

You're modding the car, so why not go with something a little stronger since more power is what you're after. You're always going to want more, so don't take any steps back.

When it comes to strength, Cast iron > Stock aluminum LS1 in a FI/n2o application.

Whenever I blowup my motor, I'll be dropping an iron block with a snail in.

Rhauwen

iTrader: (1)

Cast iron would be awesome but i really want to stay away from nitrous as much as i can and FI isn't really anything close to what my budget can handle.
Maybe in a few years it'll be in the question but for now i want to stay all N/A

MattxFatal

iTrader: (4)

I understand where you're coming from.

The only thing I'll add is, there are budget truck manifold builds that may run you the cost of a decent N/A build depending on how much of the work you're doing yourself.
-Matt

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You dont bore these blocks out to achieve some BS displacement number that you think sounds good. Thats not how it works.

AsaSpades

Y would you do such a thing? .001 is smaller than .010, im not sure on cylinder thickness of each aluminum block but those arent numbers ud want to bore ur motor for big displacement, might wanna do a little bit more reading 1st. And not 2 hijack ur thread, incase ur interested to, but how much power can a 4.125 sleeved LS1 block hold with a power adder, no N20. Im thinking about building either a 427 Ls1 or 427 LQ9, of course iron is stronger, but aluminum is lighter and can mayb even hold the power. Without sleeving or price being an issue (im a machinist). Would the LS1 b a good candidate for a 427 FI motor, ive heard some shop got Ls1s to handle around 1000hp.

idunno

iTrader: (2)

pound for pound aluminum is stronger than cast iron.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

make it out of the ls2 block, i have seen allot of ls1 block fail when they where resleeved

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

actually it is not aluminum, it is an aluminum alloy it has some other secret **** mixed in there to make it stronger

ukg35

I'm running an cammed '03 LQ4 block in my 98 TA and I love it. Had 150 shot on the block with previous owner, but I'm going to start prepping it for FI. I've ran with a few LS1s and pulled hard. And I agree, you will always want more

garygnu

if your ls1 block is good do a 383 stroker ,but get some 243s or some prc heads.if you use the iron ls2 block you can use heads with bigger valves,machine it to use L92 heads.

AsaSpades

How much stronger is the LS2 block? Im gonna start lookin up info, if u kno more please share

DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

It depends your goals IMO. Are you going after any records? Are you looking for 1000+whp. Depends on your goals with the setup you want to go with, both will take the same power give or take. If your looking for something fast on a somewhat budget get a Iron Stroker. If your looking to make a max effort car that your going to cut the car off as much weight as possible, then Aluminum. Are you talking a streetcar, then Iron. If primarily a trackcar, then aluminum. It may be 80lbs but if its on the street, what is 80lbs honestly. And when your making 600-800whp for a streetcar, truthfully what is 80lbs. Especially when you saved alot of money to put towards something else.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

i completely disagree, i would want an aluminum alloy motor for a street car not iron, you do not want that much more weight over the front nose, you are going to feel it when taking corners on the street , especially with all the extra turbo piping you are going to add, even for a drag car i would go for an aluminium alloy block, because you want the nose to lift and the weight going to the rear axle

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

the ls2 block has been to 1700hp with a little help of hardblock i am yet to see an ls1 motor go that far