Aluminum LS1 vs Cast Iron 6.0
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Aluminum LS1 vs Cast Iron 6.0
Hey guys, been reading up and down this forum non-stop for weeks trying to get together everything I need for a rebuild.
Had the car for 3 months and it decided it wanted to spin a main bearing on me so im looking at a rebuild right now.
What im wondering is YOUR personal opinion on both:
Aluminum LS1 - Smaller Displacement (5.7) but lighter block that disperses heat faster, may run cooler, and i read somewhere is easier to run higher compression
vs
Cast Iron 6.0 - Bigger Displacement (6.0) but more durable block as far as what it can handle, heavier weight, but a few more HP
I don't really have any plans to run forced induction or nitrous right now and don't want to go with a huge boss hog motor (6.2+) but what are the pro's and con's and what would YOU choose.
Or ditch both and save up for an aluminum 6.0
Thanks for reading
Had the car for 3 months and it decided it wanted to spin a main bearing on me so im looking at a rebuild right now.
What im wondering is YOUR personal opinion on both:
Aluminum LS1 - Smaller Displacement (5.7) but lighter block that disperses heat faster, may run cooler, and i read somewhere is easier to run higher compression
vs
Cast Iron 6.0 - Bigger Displacement (6.0) but more durable block as far as what it can handle, heavier weight, but a few more HP
I don't really have any plans to run forced induction or nitrous right now and don't want to go with a huge boss hog motor (6.2+) but what are the pro's and con's and what would YOU choose.
Or ditch both and save up for an aluminum 6.0
Thanks for reading
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alum 402 would be my goal, but i just noticed TSP had iron LS1 for like 750 and alum is about 1,100
looks like alum is the way to go, now to just convince myself to save up for the 402, cant find a bare 402 alum block from TSP that's not a rotating assembly i might have to call and see if they can get one for me
As far as boring out alum. blocks, i heard something like .010 or .0010 is the max i can go? my dream block would be a 402 bored out a tiny bit to maybe a 407 or so to make it a 6.66L
Thanks for the reply's
EDIT: nevermind, might as well just go with a 408 and save some money trying to get it bored out
looks like alum is the way to go, now to just convince myself to save up for the 402, cant find a bare 402 alum block from TSP that's not a rotating assembly i might have to call and see if they can get one for me
As far as boring out alum. blocks, i heard something like .010 or .0010 is the max i can go? my dream block would be a 402 bored out a tiny bit to maybe a 407 or so to make it a 6.66L
Thanks for the reply's
EDIT: nevermind, might as well just go with a 408 and save some money trying to get it bored out
Last edited by Rhauwen; 07-16-2010 at 05:20 PM.
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We all know that both blocks can be built to handle what you want to throw at it within reason.
However the cast iron block is going to be stronger out of the gate.
You're modding the car, so why not go with something a little stronger since more power is what you're after. You're always going to want more, so don't take any steps back.
When it comes to strength, Cast iron > Stock aluminum LS1 in a FI/n2o application.
Whenever I blowup my motor, I'll be dropping an iron block with a snail in.
However the cast iron block is going to be stronger out of the gate.
You're modding the car, so why not go with something a little stronger since more power is what you're after. You're always going to want more, so don't take any steps back.
When it comes to strength, Cast iron > Stock aluminum LS1 in a FI/n2o application.
Whenever I blowup my motor, I'll be dropping an iron block with a snail in.
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Cast iron would be awesome but i really want to stay away from nitrous as much as i can and FI isn't really anything close to what my budget can handle.
Maybe in a few years it'll be in the question but for now i want to stay all N/A
Maybe in a few years it'll be in the question but for now i want to stay all N/A
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Y would you do such a thing? .001 is smaller than .010, im not sure on cylinder thickness of each aluminum block but those arent numbers ud want to bore ur motor for big displacement, might wanna do a little bit more reading 1st. And not 2 hijack ur thread, incase ur interested to, but how much power can a 4.125 sleeved LS1 block hold with a power adder, no N20. Im thinking about building either a 427 Ls1 or 427 LQ9, of course iron is stronger, but aluminum is lighter and can mayb even hold the power. Without sleeving or price being an issue (im a machinist). Would the LS1 b a good candidate for a 427 FI motor, ive heard some shop got Ls1s to handle around 1000hp.
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Y would you do such a thing? .001 is smaller than .010, im not sure on cylinder thickness of each aluminum block but those arent numbers ud want to bore ur motor for big displacement, might wanna do a little bit more reading 1st. And not 2 hijack ur thread, incase ur interested to, but how much power can a 4.125 sleeved LS1 block hold with a power adder, no N20. Im thinking about building either a 427 Ls1 or 427 LQ9, of course iron is stronger, but aluminum is lighter and can mayb even hold the power. Without sleeving or price being an issue (im a machinist). Would the LS1 b a good candidate for a 427 FI motor, ive heard some shop got Ls1s to handle around 1000hp.
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I'm running an cammed '03 LQ4 block in my 98 TA and I love it. Had 150 shot on the block with previous owner, but I'm going to start prepping it for FI. I've ran with a few LS1s and pulled hard. And I agree, you will always want more
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if your ls1 block is good do a 383 stroker ,but get some 243s or some prc heads.if you use the iron ls2 block you can use heads with bigger valves,machine it to use L92 heads.
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It depends your goals IMO. Are you going after any records? Are you looking for 1000+whp. Depends on your goals with the setup you want to go with, both will take the same power give or take. If your looking for something fast on a somewhat budget get a Iron Stroker. If your looking to make a max effort car that your going to cut the car off as much weight as possible, then Aluminum. Are you talking a streetcar, then Iron. If primarily a trackcar, then aluminum. It may be 80lbs but if its on the street, what is 80lbs honestly. And when your making 600-800whp for a streetcar, truthfully what is 80lbs. Especially when you saved alot of money to put towards something else.
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It depends your goals IMO. Are you going after any records? Are you looking for 1000+whp. Depends on your goals with the setup you want to go with, both will take the same power give or take. If your looking for something fast on a somewhat budget get a Iron Stroker. If your looking to make a max effort car that your going to cut the car off as much weight as possible, then Aluminum. Are you talking a streetcar, then Iron. If primarily a trackcar, then aluminum. It may be 80lbs but if its on the street, what is 80lbs honestly. And when your making 600-800whp for a streetcar, truthfully what is 80lbs. Especially when you saved alot of money to put towards something else.