1200 dollars to spend.
#5
I have a 99' C5 FRC with M6. Gears will give you the biggest gain.. When are you looking to do this? I just bought a complete differential with 4.10's with a hardened output shaft for $1200 through a GP with DTE.. They are normally $1500.. They are the best company for rear differentials for the C5. They charge a $600 core charge which you get back.. when you return yours... If you want the 4.10's and hardened output shaft.... you can have my order (their GP is over) and I will give you a $100 on top of that.. So basically you are getting VERY nice 4.10's with the Hardened output shaft for $400 cheaper than normal!! They will give you bigger gains than headers.... I asked around a bunch before I ordered, and everyone that had longtubes and headers said the gears gave them the best gain!!!! I am probably going to get rid of my car in a few months so I don't want to spend the money afterall.....
Last edited by 98UltraZ; 01-30-2004 at 08:05 PM.
#7
what are your other mods? you can do alot of little things like TB, ls6 intake, pulley, ect. c5 headers are expensive, but if you have to replace the whole differential for a gear swap i'd go with them.
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#8
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=725916 This is a really good thread about this topic.... only if it would work..... You will have to try for yourself... But there is a bunch of calculations and overall the 4.10's give you the most gains.
BTW, When I planned on getting longtubes.... I was going to get LG longtubes $1500 for the offroad and $1900 with cats depending on what you want... They are very nice, and everything is installed easily with no welding required... true bolt on system!
BTW, When I planned on getting longtubes.... I was going to get LG longtubes $1500 for the offroad and $1900 with cats depending on what you want... They are very nice, and everything is installed easily with no welding required... true bolt on system!
Last edited by 98UltraZ; 01-30-2004 at 09:12 PM.
#9
Originally Posted by jrp
what are your other mods? you can do alot of little things like TB, ls6 intake, pulley, ect. c5 headers are expensive, but if you have to replace the whole differential for a gear swap i'd go with them.
#10
Originally Posted by 98UltraZ
I can't respond for the other guy... But I have been through all of the problems and complications of modded LS1's.. With my corvette, I was going to do all of the bolt-ons, LG longtubes, LS6 intake, air intake, gears, etc.... Then A&A makes a really nice procharger kit that doesn't have the typical problems associated with a procharger... Puts down around 470 rwhp. Stock idle, and not the complications and common problems of heads/cam cars.....
#11
Originally Posted by jrp
that can be applied to the fbody as well, s/c put out great power but there like 5k and h/c bolt on package will run cheaper. just all depends on what your looking for.
Yeah, I just had a lot of bad luck when it comes to f-body's... I know heads/cam are cheaper.... I guess I am just burned out on my bad experiences... $8k in just parts for my last car buying everything on sale..or at wholesale pricing, and it was a complete disappointment. I know a s/c will eventually kill the bottom end also, but it will make equal or more power without the driveability problems that I experienced before..... I am not about trying to have the fastest car around anymore.... I just want a nice 450+hp daily driver that has excellent street manners...
#12
Originally Posted by 98UltraZ
Yeah, I just had a lot of bad luck when it comes to f-body's... I know heads/cam are cheaper.... I guess I am just burned out on my bad experiences... $8k in just parts for my last car buying everything on sale..or at wholesale pricing, and it was a complete disappointment. I know a s/c will eventually kill the bottom end also, but it will make equal or more power without the driveability problems that I experienced before..... I am not about trying to have the fastest car around anymore.... I just want a nice 450+hp daily driver that has excellent street manners...
ya, i'd of gone the s/c if it was more economical, looking at some of the FI dyno's with just like 4-7lbs of boost makes me great power bands and power without the comprimizes (sp) of a h/c package. i dont know how much i've spent on my bolt on cam only setup but its definately cheaper then the s/c route.
#13
Well I am concerned about having 4:10's installed mainly due to traction. With my stock gears and factory rubber I am only able to obtain a best 60' time of 2.23. I think that the 4:10's will only compound this issue. The tires are in decent shape and I do not want to replaced them just yet. My current thought process is that the headers will improve and grow with the total system. I will likely get gears, but new rims and tires will come at the same time I believe.
Currentley the only performance mod is a Blackwing filter. Non performance is a B&M Ripper shifter.
Is anyone one running just LT headers and a factory cat-back?
Currentley the only performance mod is a Blackwing filter. Non performance is a B&M Ripper shifter.
Is anyone one running just LT headers and a factory cat-back?
#14
Originally Posted by ROJO99
Well I am concerned about having 4:10's installed mainly due to traction. With my stock gears and factory rubber I am only able to obtain a best 60' time of 2.23. I think that the 4:10's will only compound this issue. The tires are in decent shape and I do not want to replaced them just yet. My current thought process is that the headers will improve and grow with the total system. I will likely get gears, but new rims and tires will come at the same time I believe.
Currentley the only performance mod is a Blackwing filter. Non performance is a B&M Ripper shifter.
Is anyone one running just LT headers and a factory cat-back?
Currentley the only performance mod is a Blackwing filter. Non performance is a B&M Ripper shifter.
Is anyone one running just LT headers and a factory cat-back?
#17
You do not have to be sorry thats your opinion...
But for the record I have a stiffer suspension, and run flats are your tires run flats? The stiff suspension and stiff rubber do not help any at all. The last visit to the track was late October 45 degree air and overcast so I was happy to have a 2.2 60'. When the time comes softer rubber will be in the rims, but for now the tires are O.K.
But for the record I have a stiffer suspension, and run flats are your tires run flats? The stiff suspension and stiff rubber do not help any at all. The last visit to the track was late October 45 degree air and overcast so I was happy to have a 2.2 60'. When the time comes softer rubber will be in the rims, but for now the tires are O.K.
#18
Originally Posted by NBM2001Z28
I'm sorry but, i think you should just go to the track and learn to drive your car. I'm in a 2001 z28 w/ 322 RWHP and 344 RWTQ and im cutting 2.0X's, 13.03 @109 on the FACTORY tires with only a cut-out consistantly. And btw - I've only been driving since april, and im still 16. learn to drive it then mod it. i want to go back to the track with the little **** i've done and hit some 12's with some Ecsta Supra 712's.
Your a badass dude!
#19
i say gears as well. IMO best gains for you as well.
damn he is 16 and cutting times like that. we should all shake his hand. i wonder if he would **** if he got 400 rwhp under his foot.
damn he is 16 and cutting times like that. we should all shake his hand. i wonder if he would **** if he got 400 rwhp under his foot.