99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Alright, this coming weekend I'm putting the bird in storage for the winter. I know you're supposed to have fresh oil over the storage period in the car, so I'm planning a change this weekend with fresh fluid.

Now, my question is: When the car comes out of storage in say....April....will I have to change the oil again even tho there will be next to 0 miles on it? I know age does as much or more to oil than miles, but being the engine won't be started over the winter will it really be necessary to change it?

I know, stupid question, but if I have to change the oil this spring too I'll just put in some good conventional instead of synthetic this winter and just swap that out for synthetic this spring.....unless it's a bad idea to switch from one to another, which I would like to know too.

Thanks!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Age won't do much of anything to oil (in the short term, like over winter storage) if the engine isn't run. If you put in fresh oil before storage and don't run the engine, I see no reason to change it again in the spring.

Years ago, I used to put in fresh oil before storage. Not any more though. Now I store them with last season's oil and put in fresh when they come out in the spring. But these cars are seldom used, so even the "old" oil only has about 500-1500 miles on it at most.

You can switch back and forth with each oil change if you like. Makes no difference.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Perfect, exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks!

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

I've actually heard that changing oil TOO often these days can be a bad thing due to detergents in the oils. Not sure how true that is. Maybe an oil expert can help. All I know is, if the vehicle goes through drastic temp changes etc, or you decide to start the car and not let it fully warm up, you can end up with condensation. Just a thought.

gocartone

iTrader: (4)

I changed mine right before I put it away and took it for a short drive after to get it up to temp before shutting it off for the winter. What I plan to do is put seafoam in it when I'm taking it back out, run it for ~50 miles, than change it again. I used the normal M1 oil so it was only a $17 oil change with the filter.

This is my first year putting a car away for the winter so IDK if this is a good idea or not, but it's not expensive and I don't think it could possibly hurt anything. My oil cap was filled with that creamy stuff from having moisture build up so it needed to be changed before winter for sure (no not BHG, just the cap area).

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Seafoam or Stabil in the tank before is always good idea too.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

i know if oil is sitting in a jug on a shelf, age does nothing to it. but if you put fresh oil in the car, drive it a little while and put it up, will the contaminants from the motor break the oil down as it's sitting over the winter? i'm no expert, but if i were you, i'd change it with something cheap and on sale before you put it up. then run some seafoam through it when you start it up after winter for about 100 miles then change it again with your oil of choice. it'd be cheap to do anyway for peace of mind.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

lol, alright. Well, now I'm not sure what to do. I'm sure the oil would be fine sitting over the winter, but I may just put in some conventional over the winter, drain a bit out and Seafoam it in the spring, and then fill it up with Synthetic....but I'm not sure yet, lol.

Thanks for the advice people.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Here is what I can tell you. I've been winter-storing various cars for about 13 years now (including several LS1s). I don't ever go through such a complicated oil change process (meaning, changes both before and after, plus Seafoam, etc.).

My '98 Z28 has been stored every winter since it was new. I've personally been the one storing it for the last 7 winters now, and I know that the previous owner followed similar pratices as mine. I have no sluge build-up under the fill cap. Engine is tight as a drum with no slap/tick/knock, no oil burning, no problems. I used to change the oil right before storage, then drive it with that same oil in the spring. The last few years I've been storing it with the old oil (again, usually 500-1500 miles on it at most), and putting in fresh right away in the spring. IMO, either way is fine.

The hardest thing on oil is lots of short trips without time to fully heat the engine and oil. If you can avoid that, oil in your crankcase will be "good" for much longer.

I also use Stabil in the gas, as mention by someone above. Good product.

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

Do you start it at all during the winter just to let it idle to operating temp like say once a month? And I assume you keep a battery tender on it?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I do start it a few times, about every 6-8 weeks over the 4-month storage period, so maybe 2-3 times total. I do this on warmer days, and I get my garage up to about 40 degrees or more before starting the engine.

There are arguements for both sides on this pratice, I've heard them all and I can see both sides. However, I think you'll only see issues if you run the engine often and for short periods of time (I would not do this every 1-2 weeks like some people do). Again, I never get any of that white creamy build-up under the oil fill cap, and for those few times that I do run the engine, I let it run for 30-45 mins with the A/C compressor on for much of that time. That serves the dual purpose of allowing A/C lubricant to circulate throughout the A/C system keeping seals fresh, and puts the engine under greater load, thus further heating the oil. I go through a whole process where I hold engine rpms at 1500-2000 for a period of time as well (similar to breaking in a new motor on a dyno). By the time I shut the engine down, the oil on the dipstick feels as hot as a car that was just driven (actually, now that I think about it, I should test this theory with my IR gun).

As for the battery, I don't use a tender. When the car goes in storage I always make a note of battery voltage, it's usually between 12.5 and 12.7 volts. Even after two months of sitting with the battery still connected, voltage is usually no lower that 12.2x, which is still well beyond what's needed to start the engine. If I let it go long enough to let voltage drop below 12.0, then I've got a 2 amp trickle charger that I'll apply for an hour or so.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Alright, so if I just change the oil, then maybe take it for a 50 mile drive or so and park it the oil should be good until the spring (and through part of the summer)?

This definitely seems easier, lol. The Seafoam was just something I thought about anyhow.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

A single 50 mile drive shouldn't cause any real contamination, unless something is wrong with the engine causing a misfire or wildly rich fuel mixture.

The only other thing to think about would be storage conditions, the concern there would be if there are frequent and drastic temp & humidity fluctuations. If not, then I would continue using that oil in the spring just as if it was fresh.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Well, it'll be stored in a garage of ours. It won't be heated, but winter here in Wisconsin doesn't have too many drastic temperature fluctuations....it's just cold, lol. I'm trying to go through all the other precautions.....fresh wash and wax (including underbody wash), cleaning out the interior, and i just got a nice car cover to put over it.

Thanks everybody, especially RPM for the help!

gocartone

iTrader: (4)

You haven't lived in Wisconsin very long I take it? haha...Below 0 one day 70 the next, that's a pretty big jump!

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

lol, I've been in Wisconsin for 21 years (as long as I've lived). I know what you mean, but while the temp spikes like that are possible, it usually is below freezing during the majority of the winter. If it's crazy fluctuating, I'll swap it out in the spring.

gocartone

iTrader: (4)

Haha same here! It always seems to come a month or so before spring, a week of nice weather than BAM winter again.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Haha, I know what you mean. O well, time will tell this year whether it will be an issue or not, but you do have a good point.

BTW, where abouts are you located?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Thing about that is, if the garage is attached to a home, well insulated, and/or brick/stone construction, a quick spike in outside temps will do little to effect temps inside the garage, so long as you don't open it. We get lots of spikes here in Chicago too, but it has to last a few days before it impacts my garage temps. Just this year I remember a string of days we had in April that went from 60 to 90 to 60 in a matter of 3 days. The garage stayed about 62°F the whole time....lol...like it never happened.

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

Make sure every time you start the car, it is run until it is completely warmed up. If not you will get water and rust.