borlaz28

I put a 160 thermostat in my '99 Z28 in oct, had some troubles getting it to open and circulate but finally did. The thing is it still runs around the 210 range! I have SLP cold air, is it that blocking the radiator keeping the temp up? When I was having the circulating trouble I did take it out and put it on the stove and it opened at 160 so I know the stat is a 160 stat.
Also I'm looking to put headers on, I have borla cat back right now. Here is what Im thinking......Pacesetter LT into a offroad x or y(which is most recommended?) with cutout(s) into my borla. Really just looking for suggestion and all are welcome! Thanks

'99 Z28 M6
SLP cold air
Borla cat back
Diablo Programmer
320rwhp/334rwtrq

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Some thoughts...

1) The '99+ temp gage will read right about 210° any time the coolant temp is actually between about ~190°F to ~230°F. The only way to see your true temp (other than an aftermarket gage) is with a scanner.

2) The engine will still eventually heat up to the same temps as with the stock t-stat when idling or moving at slow speeds unless you also re-program the fan settings to an earlier cut-on temp.

3) Just because a t-stat is rated at a given temp doesn't mean that the engine will always stay at that temp. Cooling system capacity and efficiency, engine parameters, airflow, and outside temps will all effect actual running temps. Don't expect it to stay at 160°F all the time just because the t-stat starts to open at that temp.

Hope that helps.

borlaz28

I have the fans programmed to come on at 160 and 180. Thanks for the info. Any suggestion for exhaust?

9WhiteCamaro9

What was the purpose of putting in a 160 thermo? I mean really they don't serve no purpose unless you have a higher compressed car and your trying not to detonate the motor then I could see it. But with what you said really there's no need for one since your not highly compressed and the car is pretty much stock other than an intake and a tune. It's like this... with the 160 stat, you will burn more gas than is needed cause the car is pulling in more air and the computer will since it and try to flow more fuel cause of the extra air its pulling in and the oil with get dirtier cause colder engines form more sludge due to the engine being colder and would take longer to burn off all the deposites that cause sludge. Long story short is the 160 stat is worse than if you would have went with a 180 stat unless you have a higher compressed engine.

Earl Filter

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. Thermostats only regulate minimum engine temperature. The temp can still go to the moon if there are other issues.

borlaz28

I've always been under the assumption that air and fuel make power and a cooler engine uses that power more effectively?

borlaz28

I understand the temp can go higher than the t-stat, so maybe flush out the system?

Earl Filter

iTrader: (1)

And make sure there's no air in the system.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Best power will be made when cold air intake temps meet a decently hot combustion chamber. In my experience, stock compression, non-forced induction LS1s usually make best power with coolant temps right around ~190-200°F.

What "problem" are you trying to resolve? No matter what you do with the cooling system, your stock gage isn't going to ever show you an accurate temp reading. The first order of business would be to hook up a scanner if you want to see the actual temp.

I assume you're saying the the low speed cut-on temp is set for 160 and the high speed for 180? If so, I would change those settings, as it's not going to be possibile to maintain 160°F under all conditions as explained above.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I agree as my 160* T-stats doesn't fully open to about 170* I think this is typical....

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Thermostat does nothing but enforce the -minimum-
ECT. Period. If the motor is not too cold, the 'stat
is not your problem. Bubbles, maybe, but not likely
here.

SLP CAI does shroud the radiator, add a trans cooler
(you A4 folks) if you want near total blockage with
that setup.

Speaking of blockage, pull the radiator and hose it
out backwards and see how much trash ends up on
the driveway. Condenser too. If it's never been done,
enjoy.

Forget the gauge, look at ECT with a scan tool or
handheld.

Stock fans kick on, what, about... 210? Did you put
them someplace sensible with the Predator? Like
175/177 Lo off, Lo on, 179/181 Hi off, Hi on for that
"160" 'stat? Which is really going to pivot about 175
or so.

borlaz28

Really was no problem was more curiosity! Thanks for all the info and suggestions, I'll double check my fan settings and hook a scanner up. IF I get a lot of time on my hands I'll pull the radiator and hose it out. Thanks again