U have a 72% chance of your rear end blowing based on your mods

 

sounds like i should probably not risk it this weekend then...

 

You should go leave off idle if you are worried and shift gently and see what mph you can pull until ou can get a real rear end. That's what I plan on doing

 

so if you have these on your fbody, this will help wheel hop a lot, right? so if you have an fbody making 400rwhp with lcas and relocation brackets with stock 10 bolt, you're fine?

and just to clarify, the reason why 6 speeds are more prone to breaking the 10 bolt is because they have a stronger 'kick', right? because autos lag a little bit?

 

Yeah, a 6 speed that's launched hard produces much more of a shock on the rear than an auto does.

 

It's the launch that's the hardest on the rear end with a manual. As far as shifts from 2nd to 3rd, an auto with no torque management and upped line pressure or a shift kit can be just as hard, if not harder on the rear end.

 

thing is, you can break almost anything. Just go beat on it and try. I broke my 9in real bad one time too, few years ago. The driveshaft with the pinion still attached(it broke thewhole centersection) beat my floorboard up so bad the rear seat didnt fit and it bent the floor plate my kicker bars behind the seats are welded to. Not to mention it broke the trans bellhousing all the way around so basically nothing was holding it in...and this was all on one launch...haha
hell heres the video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7GNi2QsCbk


so just go break parts, thats how you end up getting what you need!

 

lol

 

I like that answer. Theres a lot of factors, wheel hop, tires, suspension setup, etc. I wanted mine to last as long as possbile & take it to the track with the 10 bolt before having to upgrade. I wouldnt be afraid to run some kind of DR (MT or Nitto) & dont be afraid to do a nice burnout. Upgrade the flimsy stock torque arm & rear trailing arm setup to some tubular stufff from UMI or BMR. It makes a big difference launching the car getting that stock torque arm off that trans. If youre lowered control arm relocation brackets are a must to prevent wheelhop. Slipping the clutch is a must, now that I have a 9 I launch at 5500 dumping the clutch but I am sure the 10 would break, never tried it. I got some 1.8 60 times on my 3.73 10 bolt & put several
launches on the car with Nittos but I had a good torque arm, trailing arms & I slipped the clutch. I never wheel hopped either. This is with the stock aluminum driveshaft, which I wouldnt recommend now after I have seen a few pics of these grenading recently. After I went to the 9 I ended up selling the 10 for $275. The 10 bolt is weak but if done right it can handle some track abuse. Dont expect 1.5s & for it to hold up behind an M6, thats not gonna happen.

 

Well hell. Who wants to sell me a 9"!

 

Did you go to the track on Sunday? Make it home with the rear end intact?

 

ZTwentyAteU sorry I cant quote on my phone but is that track in Hville AL. I think it is but the vid is kinda grainy. I'm local to Hville btw.

 

i totally bished out, it ended up being an 1/8 track they were going to, so i figured if i was going to risk it i figured i should at least do it on 1/4 lol currently in the hunt for a 9"

 

I've put my 10b through the paces, but I don't have wheel hop either. I can thank the suspension for that.
When the time comes, I will be looking for a strange 12b or 9", but more research will be needed.

Don't do a lot of launches, more into road racing...have 57k on mine. Dropping the clutch in this car at 3k rpm will do nothing but sit and spin anyway on street radials.

 

Damn, that brought on the suck. Car sounds very healthy!

 

Best thing you can do is replace the POS 10 bolt before you even go to the track. I took mine to the track (pic in sig) and everything held with a mild slip of the clutch. Virtually no burnout cause I didn't really want traction and a 2.0 second 60' later I ran the time in my sig. I was nervous every single launch/shift that I was going to break. Better off just pull the thing fully functional as stated to at least get some money out it. I ordered my MWC 9" and installed it before the 10 bolt had any problems.

 

Just do like I did when I still had a 10 bolt. Go ahead and get the Triple A premium plan. That way when you blow up your rear you get 100 miles of free towing. Your gonna need it.

 

I just gotta say the Moser 9" I bought 10+ years ago is my favorite mod ever. Yeah, it seems expensive, but in reality the ability to get the most out of your car time after time with piece of mind knowing you aren't going to scatter parts makes it a good value.

 

I have to agree. You say 10 years ago you did the rear end swap....so that is around 300.00 per year for a piece of mind if you spent 3000.00