Stock A4
03-29-2004, 10:31 AM
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Stock A4 Im looking in to a 98 trans am that i believe is completly stock. I was wondering if i could put a torque converter on it without a shitload of mods to back it up. If not, what mods would i need before getting one?
Thanks
Bryan
Thanks
Bryan
03-29-2004, 12:44 PM
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It's probably the best thing you can do for an A4 car as far as launch/roll-on performance goes.
Don't forget a transmission cooler, that is one mod you'll want to back up a 'verter!
Don't forget a transmission cooler, that is one mod you'll want to back up a 'verter!
03-29-2004, 01:17 PM
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What does a converter do to the car as far as everyday driveability? I guess i dont really understand exactly how a converter works.... What is the biggest Verter i can get with a stock Trans Am?
03-29-2004, 01:34 PM
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You should get a tranny cooler and it would help to
have your fans programmed to run at reasonable
temps.
Lots of people like a converter like the TCI SSF 3500/2.5
and you probably can't beat it for the price. I have the
SF 3000/2.2 and it's good but a bit mild, still a handful
on stock rubber and 3.23s so probably a not-bad compromise
converter. Got to figure whether you'll be having the rubber
to hold against a higher STR, and if so you may need to put
lower control arm relo brackets because it's hard hop that
is the rear end / driveline backend killer and Nittos can hop
pretty fierce from what I've heard.
You know how, if you're rolling at 32MPH in 3rd, you open the
throttle and nothing happens? You're stuck below the power
band and won't kick down (due to dumb-*** PCM shift settings)
and even though the converter unlocks, you are still held down
by the fluid coupling? A 3500 stall speed lets you slide the RPM
up into band and while it's at it, enhanced STR gives you about
a 30% thrust multiplier (fading to zero gain or even a slight
reduction, up top as efficiency may be slightly less than stock).
Ideally you would have a stall speed that roughly matches the
front "torque corner" on your torque/RPM curve, and an STR /
stall speed combo that makes HP/RPM fatter and flatter. On a
stocker a 3500/2.0 or thereabouts seems ideal; /2.5 would help
overcome a set of 2.73s perhaps but will "feel looser". On a
headers/cam car where power is peaked up a lot, you will see
the stall speed selection go higher and, since hardcore cars
usually also run higher rear end ratios, the STR is less necessary
(and big STR on big torque on big gears just shreds tires or breaks
stuff).
Yank's site has a section on dyno test results that gives a pretty
good picture of what different stall speed / STR combos do for you.
have your fans programmed to run at reasonable
temps.
Lots of people like a converter like the TCI SSF 3500/2.5
and you probably can't beat it for the price. I have the
SF 3000/2.2 and it's good but a bit mild, still a handful
on stock rubber and 3.23s so probably a not-bad compromise
converter. Got to figure whether you'll be having the rubber
to hold against a higher STR, and if so you may need to put
lower control arm relo brackets because it's hard hop that
is the rear end / driveline backend killer and Nittos can hop
pretty fierce from what I've heard.
You know how, if you're rolling at 32MPH in 3rd, you open the
throttle and nothing happens? You're stuck below the power
band and won't kick down (due to dumb-*** PCM shift settings)
and even though the converter unlocks, you are still held down
by the fluid coupling? A 3500 stall speed lets you slide the RPM
up into band and while it's at it, enhanced STR gives you about
a 30% thrust multiplier (fading to zero gain or even a slight
reduction, up top as efficiency may be slightly less than stock).
Ideally you would have a stall speed that roughly matches the
front "torque corner" on your torque/RPM curve, and an STR /
stall speed combo that makes HP/RPM fatter and flatter. On a
stocker a 3500/2.0 or thereabouts seems ideal; /2.5 would help
overcome a set of 2.73s perhaps but will "feel looser". On a
headers/cam car where power is peaked up a lot, you will see
the stall speed selection go higher and, since hardcore cars
usually also run higher rear end ratios, the STR is less necessary
(and big STR on big torque on big gears just shreds tires or breaks
stuff).
Yank's site has a section on dyno test results that gives a pretty
good picture of what different stall speed / STR combos do for you.
03-29-2004, 06:01 PM
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Lets say I was looking at a Yank 3200,will that do damage to my rear like the m6 does or will it be relativly safe? Is that gonna be good for my, right now, stock car? I must be stupid though.... im still really confused as to how it works, like if im racing from a dig, how will it help me. Someone tried to explain it to me the other day, but just confused me more. Thanks for you help
Bryan
Bryan
03-29-2004, 11:37 PM
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"will that do damage to my rear like the m6 does?"
No. you don't get the same shock load on the drive train from launching off a stall that you get some dumping the clutch. a converter will give you the most noticable performance increase you can get for the money. i'd go bigger than a 3200. i have a vig 3600, which is more like a 4300 or something like that. it gets driven every day, and i wouln't trade it for anything. get a cooler with it, and think about a transgo shift kit. nomatter what converter you get, you'll enjoy it
No. you don't get the same shock load on the drive train from launching off a stall that you get some dumping the clutch. a converter will give you the most noticable performance increase you can get for the money. i'd go bigger than a 3200. i have a vig 3600, which is more like a 4300 or something like that. it gets driven every day, and i wouln't trade it for anything. get a cooler with it, and think about a transgo shift kit. nomatter what converter you get, you'll enjoy it
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03-30-2004, 01:28 AM
#8
Mine stock ran like a 13.7 with a K&N.. And i was pissed!@ Man!!! If you scared of a 3200 well get a 3500 stall. I dont have one yet but man, get one bigger then what you want. After you TC get some headers. I went with headers and a Suncoast hood and droped .7 of my E.T. If i had some fatter tires(got 255's right now) i would easily go into the 12's with just headers and suncoast ram air(no **** everything but the magaflow was after)
But from what i have read, the TC REALLY wakes an A4 up.
But from what i have read, the TC REALLY wakes an A4 up.
03-30-2004, 07:05 AM
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Yeah, i was thiking about going with the tbyrne.com power package that includes the vig converter, trans-go, and the cooler for $799. How much will it cost to have all this installed on average?
03-30-2004, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28MrO
How much will it cost to have the stall, tranny cooler, and trans go kit all installed?