Speed Racer 7

I recently bought a 98 Camero at a price I couldn't pass on. I figured it would be a fun toy to tinker around with and see how fast I can make. The only problem...it is an automatic. I know that manual transmissions usually result in faster cars, but I also know that you can get a torque converter that can boost the horsepower. My question: To get the most horsepower out of this car, should I just buy a custom torque converter or should I replace the transmission. Money really isn't an issue, and I have experience with transmission work.

Would it really make that big of a difference? Also, anyone know of a good place to buy converters on the web?

Please help?!?

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Well, first let me say if you are looking for a faster car then the auto is what you want, not the 6 speed. They may be more fun but there is no way you can shift as fast as a computer controlled automatic can (and guarantee no miss shifts).

Regarding your questions, many guys have installed a higher stall torque converter with a stock transmission. The key is to have a large trans cooler when you do this. However, don't expect the trans to last forever if you do that and are beating on it constantly.

You may be better driving it like it is (stock), or getting a built trans and upgrade the converter at the same time.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

best to look at the threads in the automatic tranny section and in the gears and axle section.
6 speed manual ARE more fun,4 speed auto win at the dragstrip.
The general popular consensus is a 3600-4000 convertor from a manufacturer like Yank or CircleD or ? and 3.73 gears.

Josh Hopkins

36-4000 stall is nothing streetable.

2000-2500 stall is what you want for a street car, also I would strongly recommend a built transmission, you'll eventually break the stock tranny and need a new converter all over again.

also, if your looking to make it fast your going to need to begin to modify it, camshaft, heads, fuel system and tune

2000PewterT/A

I highly disagree, there are hundreds maybe thousands of people on here running a 3000+ stall in their daily drivers. Anything under that for a stall and there is no point at even putting it in these cars. I personally know people that dd cars with 3600 stalls and bigger.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I ran a SS3600 in my DD Camaro. It was too small so I upped it to a 4000

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My question for OP....have you ever driven a stalled automatic? What are your long term plans for the car?

For the 2000-2500 guy above....well this ain't a long runner motor like the old school stuff. A stock converter is around 1700 rpms on an LS1. They make torque 1k rpms or higher then the old stuff. Your 2500 recommendation is like us recommending a 3500. The difference is we actually know what we are talking about.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

I had an 'old school' Buick Skylark GranSport. 401 nail head engine(325hp @ 4200,445tq @ 2800),super turbine 300(buicks' equivalent of powerglide),and 308 gears. Torque convertor was in the range of 3000-3500. I would lock the parking brake(the buicks had huge rear drum brakes and I was using Velvatouch metallic shoes),apply full torque and the tach would sit at 3300(like a transbrake), release the parking brake for launch and it would rip. I was coming out above peak torque and below peak hp. 29" cheater slicks were biting for incredible launches. Even the old school muscle cars would benefit from a high torque convertor if they weren't afraid to try it.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

Beef up your auto tranny and put in a circle d converter!!!! Nuff said.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

You should probably spend some time in the auto trans section learning the basics of torque converter operation, and why a higher stall is beneficial for reduced ETs/better acceleration. Torque converters don't "boost horsepower" (other than a lighter and more efficient TC possibily showing a small gain in horsepower over another, as measured at the wheels, but this is not the primary benefit of a higher stall speed).

As for the difference in acceleration/performance/ET reduction, the benefits are huge. You will need sticky tires to really take advantage of the full ET reduction benefit (meaning the much improved launch), but there are other acceleration benefits as well, even from a roll. Shift extension (rpms to which the engine drops after a WOT upshift) is increased, so whether you have launched from a stop or punched it from a roll, the higher stall (assuming you pick the correct stall speed for your application) will keep you in the "sweet spot" window between peak torque and peak horsepower at all times during a WOT period. Acceleration will be much more expolsive, but the engine isn't actually making more horsepower - just making better use of what was already there. There is also the matter of stall torque ratio and how it effects (multiplies) torque at the wheels at launch, but this effect does not carry on through the entire rpm range.

Here is a good FAQ page for this topic as well, although some of the information is outdated since those models of torque converter are no longer produced:

http://www.converter.cc/FAQ_s/45.htm

This would be regretable advice, should anyone actually follow it. Even a stock LS1 makes peak torque and horsepower at high enough rpms to benefit greatly from a 3500+ stall at minimum. As for what is streetable, the 4L60E is a lock-up trans and the aftermarket converters have the required TCC, so cruising rpms will be exactly the same as stock once you get to about 40-45mph or so - regardless of stall speed. You can even program lock-up to occur at an earlier rpm if so desired. Most people that have not driven an LS1/4L60E combo with a 3500+ stall think that this stall speed sounds too high to be streetable, but they would be surprised at how streetable this is when using a high quality torque converter. The first time I experienced this was about 13 years ago (put a Yank 3500 stall in an otherwise stock '00 WS6) and it only took about a week of driving for it to feel totally normal. Shortly after, I realized that I could have easily gone bigger.

Going fast is all about comprehensive optimization of your setup, not just picking certain areas to modify without consideration for the remainder of the car. It would be a mistake to do such modifications as the typical heads/cam package before doing a higher stall. First of all, the stock stall isn't even ideal for the stock cam, so you're leaving a lot on the table as it is. Second, a heads/cam car with a stock stall could easily end up being slower at the track than a stock internal car with a perfectly optimized stall.

boostednismo

iTrader: (5)

I daily drove my car for a year with a TCI 3500 stock 3.23's then put in a built transmission and daily drove it with a Yank SS4000 for several months. Eventually swapped to 3.73 gears, the higher gear will make a converter feel tighter. And yes get a stall before anything else in an auto. I've seen several cars with h/c or bolt-ons + nitrous run slower or about the times I run.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

a 2000-2500 stall for a LS1 streetcar has got to be among the worst advice ever given. My SS3600 drives/acts like the factory convertor in many ways until I apply pressure to the fun pedal. It'll get the car moving just above idle,even sometimes at idle,drives like OEM in city traffic and on the freeway. Had I gone with a SS4000,I probably would've been just as satisfied. Currently running 3.23s',ran 4.56s' for 4 years,gonna go 3.73s' as soon as I get/find axles for the 3rd housing I have.

Speed Racer 7

This forum is pretty damn awesome! Thanks for the tips and advice. After reading all of your comments, I have come to the conclusion that I need to do more research. haha

Chances are I will stick with the automatic. As of right now, I think I am leaning more towards getting a torque converter and modifying the transmission to handle the added power. Anyone know about RevMax? I checked out their website (www.RevMax.com) and they seem to have to right packages. Pretty damn good pricing, I might add.

Again, thanks for all the advice. I will have my quarter-mile time down in no time!

boostednismo

iTrader: (5)

I don't know anybody that runs RevMax. Search it on the forum first. Most people will recommend Yank, Circle D or FTI.

AutoRoc

Buying a Yank 4000 and sticky tires is the first 2 mods that need to be done to ANY LS1 car.

100 shot of nitrous is my third reccomended mod. This usually makes for an 11 second car.

Goodluck

FYI, I drove a 5000 stalled powerglide car for a while.. You could accelerate into traffic briskly without ever going above 2500rpm. It only flashes 5000 at full throttle.

garygnu

you have a lock up torque converter ,so it won't be slipping on the highway .

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

I recommend PTC. What alot of people do is get a billet converter, which is usually a Yank or Circle D, and they don't need it. It's usually only necessary if you're going to lock the converter at WOT, which isn't beneficial to the typical street LS1.

PTC well build a converter to your needs, no billet so you're not wasting $300, and lots of people who run them say they blew Yank out of the water. I have a PTC 4000 rpm, 1.5-2.0 STR sitting on my kitchen floor right now. Message Lemons12 on here, I learned about PTC from his posts. Circle D builds them to your application also, but I wouldn't get an off the shelf converter. That's just me though.

Anthony Phillips

sure built to spec is better but if its a daily driver and you plan on upgrades in the future get a yank 36-- to 4000 and they will re-stall once for free and has a 3 yr warranty so ...cant go wrong!!!!