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After SLP lid install car won't idle, dies?

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Old 01-12-2014, 06:06 PM
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Default After SLP lid install car won't idle, dies?

Installed an SLP lid and smooth bellows on my 2000 T/A today. I wasn't able to get the IAC out of the original air box, and to move the car into the garage, turned it on with no IAC in the SLP lid and let it idle for a second, where it started at 1100, then fell VERY quickly to 600, 300, and at that point I shut it off. Is the IAC the sole problem? I'm having difficulty getting the original one out since it's stuck in with a grommet. Any ideas what else the problem could be? I had to slightly modify the lid opening for the MAF with a Dremel since it wasn't perfectly round, but cleaned it fully and sanded it down, before I put the MAF into it. Car is my DD, so help is appreciated!
Old 01-12-2014, 06:09 PM
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Did you disconnect the battery for longer than a half hour?
Old 01-12-2014, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Furious1
Did you disconnect the battery for longer than a half hour?
Nope, hadn't disconnected it at all.
Old 01-12-2014, 06:14 PM
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maf backwards? just a idea
Old 01-12-2014, 06:14 PM
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100 percent sure everything you disconnected is reconnected? and its the IAT thats mounted on the lid, not the IAC. intake air temp not idle air control
Old 01-12-2014, 06:17 PM
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I've done this mod a few times. you can't pry the entire rubber grommet out with a screwdriver or dremel it out? I'd disconnect battery for a while. Connect and fire it up, let the computer relearn the flows. Will temporarily run soft for while, no drama
Old 01-12-2014, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NicB
maf backwards? just a idea
Nope, it's got the sensor part on the drivers side, so it's definitely on right
Old 01-12-2014, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jsteele90
100 percent sure everything you disconnected is reconnected? and its the IAT thats mounted on the lid, not the IAC. intake air temp not idle air control
Yep, everything is reconnected. Whoops, mixed those up
Old 01-12-2014, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RJDio
I've done this mod a few times. you can't pry the entire rubber grommet out with a screwdriver or dremel it out? I'd disconnect battery for a while. Connect and fire it up, let the computer relearn the flows. Will temporarily run soft for while, no drama
Tried to get it out with a screwdriver but it didn't work. I'll give the Dremel a try tomorrow if it doesn't start up fine, again.
Old 01-12-2014, 06:56 PM
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If you can't get them out worst case just get new ones, IAT is # 12160244 and the grommet is # 24504388.

And when you went to put the MAF on the lid, did you use the hair dryer method?
Old 01-12-2014, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by slaterdump
If you can't get them out worst case just get new ones, IAT is # 12160244 and the grommet is # 24504388.

And when you went to put the MAF on the lid, did you use the hair dryer method?
Nope, just used the Dremel to fit the MAF into it. Used WD40 and a torch as well beforehand, then cleaned it off prior to using the Dremel. I'll likely just order a new grommet and IAT sensor
Old 01-12-2014, 11:47 PM
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make sure your MAF sensor is clean, spray it with electronic cleaner or use a qtip and alcohol very carefully.
Old 01-13-2014, 12:05 PM
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Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, checked all of the piping and there's no way air is getting in anywhere. Tried holding pos/neg battery terminals together for 5 seconds to reset the battery, etc. Keeps gradually losing starting power, now taking forever to turn over. Starter is only 1 year old, alternator is virtually brand new. Figuring out how to attach a video, now...
Old 01-13-2014, 12:18 PM
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Clean your IAT as well and make sure it's all the way through the hole in the lid
Old 01-13-2014, 03:32 PM
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If you have no reason to keep the stock lid, just cut it up to get to the grommet/sensor. Nonetheless, I've not had any problem removing them on my '00, '01, or '02, so keep trying!
Old 01-14-2014, 11:05 AM
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So I charged the battery up last night and started it today while a SnapOn diagnosis scanner was plugged in. The only code the car now is throwing is The P1637 Generator L-Terminal Circuit code. Is that a major problem? Haven't test driven the car yet, only let it idle since I have class this afternoon and don't want it to die on me when I'm driving, but should I be wary of anything?
Old 01-14-2014, 12:12 PM
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that code is usually a bad alternator or exciter wire.
Old 01-15-2014, 09:11 PM
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Well I drove the car all day today and nothing seemed wrong, scanner showed nothing besides the P1637 code, so I'll be wary of the alternator but for now it seems alright. Also picked up an IAT sensor so I'm all set now to put the SLP lid on the car!
Old 01-20-2014, 05:35 PM
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I know that when I put in my SLP lid I was gettig idle issues and the car would die when I rolled to a stop if I didn't give it some gas while idling. Turned out I had damaged the tip of the IAT when I pulled it from the stock lid. I had no more idle issues once I put a new sensor in...
Old 01-21-2014, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by brendo389
So I charged the battery up last night and started it today while a SnapOn diagnosis scanner was plugged in. The only code the car now is throwing is The P1637 Generator L-Terminal Circuit code. Is that a major problem? Haven't test driven the car yet, only let it idle since I have class this afternoon and don't want it to die on me when I'm driving, but should I be wary of anything?
Did you happen to leave the battery charger (charging) on the car for a while with the vehicle running? If so that is where the code came from, I would clear the code and run the car though a drive cycle and see if the code comes back.



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