98 t/a ls1
#5
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Although that doesn't mean you can put a 250hp n2o kit on it and let it rip. I'd keep the n2o in the 100-150hp range or boost below 10psi, some may disagree but I wouldn't push the limit unless you can afford a new motor.
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#8
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Jim , since we spoke on your old forum years ago I've had 4 of these 4th gen ls1 cars and the one thing you can do that will literally transform your car is to put a quality aggressive stall in it - best bang for the buck mod on an a4 car.
Bolt ons , good stall , tune , sticky tires in the type of weather we get up here spring and fall your flirting with high 11's many stock internals cars crack 11's one of my stock internals cars has and another came very ,very close and on a bad fuel pump , add a cam mid 11's , heads cam typically low 11's /high 10's
low budget high return = stall ,bolt ons ,spray
Bolt ons , good stall , tune , sticky tires in the type of weather we get up here spring and fall your flirting with high 11's many stock internals cars crack 11's one of my stock internals cars has and another came very ,very close and on a bad fuel pump , add a cam mid 11's , heads cam typically low 11's /high 10's
low budget high return = stall ,bolt ons ,spray
#10
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There are several manufacturers but staying away from low budget convertors and buying higher quality will mean better durability and efficiency , a cheap 3200 stall will sometimes feel loose in regular driving while a high quality 3600 will feel close to stock driving normally but flash up quickly when needed. My stalled auto car has a 3600 came with the car I would love to have it restalled to a 4000 at some point....
Yank , Vigilante , Circle D , North Texas Convertors are all good and pretty popular around here , Circle D & North Texas Convertors both chime in about daily in the transmission section and are very helpful with selecting the right convertor to match your mods or lack thereof , budget , and your expectations for how the car will drive and perform.
Most stall's will come with 1 free re-flash to make sure its working as expected in your car. Most people go conservative at first then end up re-stalling higher if they do make a change , after watching your vids from the thanksgiving turkey burns and other "events" over the years sanctioned and otherwise lol your looking for around a 4 grand stall and a trans cooler at the same time , it will still lockup to give great mileage when cruising but will be a beast when you hammer it.
all the site sponsors including trans/convertor companies have hyperlinks on the right margin of the forum> > > >
You can find some good deals on used convertors in the classifieds section on here if you keep an eye out. The next few months is when you tend to see the most demods , people upgrading to race only status needing higher stalls or multi disc convertors , people selling extra parts for Christmas/oil money etc... active time for used parts.
Do you know if your TA has 2.73's or 3.23's ? 323 will be gu5 on the rpo tag on the door GU2 I believe is 273's check in your drivers door jamb for one of those codes.
Last edited by murphinator; 10-24-2014 at 10:38 PM.
#13
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I removed the brace from my stalled auto car , its in my garage lol , my 6 speed car the guy used to autocross and had no strut tower brace or frame connectors and the car is on rails, hardtop car with strano springs ,Koni adj shocks , hotchkis panhard bar... so my point on the strut tower bar is I don't think its high on the list of effective handling mods on this platform like it can be on others , you could likely poke around the handling section and find out what the key handling items are , which to buy first etc... where to spend your money effectively.
#15
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it depends on your goals and budget, too many choices to list and I am not the guy to lead you down that path my budget stops at bolt ons lol but if your not made of money you don't do heads without doing a cam , a cam without a convertor will generally be a turd , and then you have the labor , gaskets , fasteners , tune ,etc it adds up real quick.
but these ls engines have pretty good head castings stock compared to old school sbc/bbc and super stout bottom ends thats why you see so many old cars swapping to ls power they can replace a heads cam sbc with a junkyard stock ls and make more power in a lot of cases and with better durability sticking to bolt ons , convertors , spray etc.. that's how you do it cheap , once you open it up its time to get your wallet out.
but these ls engines have pretty good head castings stock compared to old school sbc/bbc and super stout bottom ends thats why you see so many old cars swapping to ls power they can replace a heads cam sbc with a junkyard stock ls and make more power in a lot of cases and with better durability sticking to bolt ons , convertors , spray etc.. that's how you do it cheap , once you open it up its time to get your wallet out.
#17
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ok Jim , Ill list bolt on mods in something close to the order of bang for the buck on an a4 car ( other than spray we all know that's about the best bang for the buck on any platform)
drag radials , nothing will ensure you get the best results at the track with all the other stuff below than dr's , just about everything else below will require tuning to happen outside of really basic upgrades like lid & catback.
high stall lock up convertor
long tube headers
cold air kit items like aftermarket lid , chris 1313 ram air
intake manifold , Fast are considered the best without cutting the cowl , on a budget the ls6 intake manifold is a popular upgrade , they came on ls6's as well as on ls1's from 2001 and newer generally around $300-400 , your car being a 98 it has a slightly more aggressive cam than the later ls1's got , combine it with the better ls6 intake the later ls1's had and its a nice combo , 2 of my ls1 cars run this set- up.
where your 273's now gears will help tighten up the overall feel of the car , I haven't had a 273 car with a stall myself but I keep hearing its a bit sloppy feeling but the stall will gain et about 3 fold to gears while gears will feel snappy in general .
Is your car 3 channel or 4 channel rear end ? 3 channel will have 1 sensor on the differential , 4 channel will have sensors at each backing plate , 3 channel is abs only , 4 channel is abs and traction control this will be important if you should stumble on a deal on a rear end vs. buying gears , there's a 342 geared 3 channel for sale in the eastern classifieds right now that would be a nice upgrade for you , any gear change will need to be addressed in the tune as will some of the other things I have listed . If you buy gears there's several brands and some are quiet as stock if setup right , others are not do your research to match your comfort level with the proper brand of gear. You would also have to specify 2 series carrier as the gears have to be thicker than the same ratio in a 3 series carrier to fit in the 2 series carrier. As far as ratios where the rear is a puny 7.5" the best way to retain durability is to go no lower than 390's once you go 410 the pinion gear is tiny , 390 shares the same pinion tooth count with 373's
catback exhaust , too many choices to list lol.
underdrive pulley , if your changing gears your engines going to be spinning faster anyway , this will slow your accessories back down saving a few ponies.
ported throttle body , potz is popular for that he is a member here and sells them on ebay just search ls1 ported throttle body and his ads will come up.
then theres some free mods like gutting the lower airbox , tweaking the throttle stop to get full throttle , deleting things like egr , ac ,etc...
drag radials , nothing will ensure you get the best results at the track with all the other stuff below than dr's , just about everything else below will require tuning to happen outside of really basic upgrades like lid & catback.
high stall lock up convertor
long tube headers
cold air kit items like aftermarket lid , chris 1313 ram air
intake manifold , Fast are considered the best without cutting the cowl , on a budget the ls6 intake manifold is a popular upgrade , they came on ls6's as well as on ls1's from 2001 and newer generally around $300-400 , your car being a 98 it has a slightly more aggressive cam than the later ls1's got , combine it with the better ls6 intake the later ls1's had and its a nice combo , 2 of my ls1 cars run this set- up.
where your 273's now gears will help tighten up the overall feel of the car , I haven't had a 273 car with a stall myself but I keep hearing its a bit sloppy feeling but the stall will gain et about 3 fold to gears while gears will feel snappy in general .
Is your car 3 channel or 4 channel rear end ? 3 channel will have 1 sensor on the differential , 4 channel will have sensors at each backing plate , 3 channel is abs only , 4 channel is abs and traction control this will be important if you should stumble on a deal on a rear end vs. buying gears , there's a 342 geared 3 channel for sale in the eastern classifieds right now that would be a nice upgrade for you , any gear change will need to be addressed in the tune as will some of the other things I have listed . If you buy gears there's several brands and some are quiet as stock if setup right , others are not do your research to match your comfort level with the proper brand of gear. You would also have to specify 2 series carrier as the gears have to be thicker than the same ratio in a 3 series carrier to fit in the 2 series carrier. As far as ratios where the rear is a puny 7.5" the best way to retain durability is to go no lower than 390's once you go 410 the pinion gear is tiny , 390 shares the same pinion tooth count with 373's
catback exhaust , too many choices to list lol.
underdrive pulley , if your changing gears your engines going to be spinning faster anyway , this will slow your accessories back down saving a few ponies.
ported throttle body , potz is popular for that he is a member here and sells them on ebay just search ls1 ported throttle body and his ads will come up.
then theres some free mods like gutting the lower airbox , tweaking the throttle stop to get full throttle , deleting things like egr , ac ,etc...
#19
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that's good no trac control simpler car. Don't get overwhelmed Jim start with a few of the simpler mods and you will see how well the car responds to mods , find a deal on a used lid for $50 or so and a catback , maybe a ported throttle body if you keep your eyes peeled here in eastern classifieds and on craigs list you should be able to get those things done for under $500 car should crack 12's on a dr with those mods in spring or fall weather up here.