dickeymoore

I have a 2001 Camaro Z28 with the LS1 engine and I need to remove the passenger side catalytic converter but the bolts that hold a converter to the manifold up top are Rusty how can I remove them in a safe way without breaking them any suggestions thanks

inspector

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

^^^ yep,penetrating oil. Loosen a little,snug back up,repeat,repeat. once all three are loosened a tiny bit,a 'T' handle drive is useful to keep from having to reversing the ratchet pawl. For re-assembly,use stainless steel nuts and you'll never have that problem again. After breaking one of the studs on the drivers side and having to burn a hole thru the broken stud,replaced it with a bolt and used stainless steel nuts for all 6.

Nuts are 10mm x 1.5.

jaxcam02

iTrader: (1)

I tried everything in the book for mine, luckily I was replacing the entire system so I had to go to the last resort and cut the pipes into pieces. I wish you all the luck in the world getting them apart. Good luck

jetech

use a quality penetrant like Kroil maybe PB B'laster, not WD40.

GammaFlat

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the middle of this nightmare now. I have a 5.3 from a truck and 4 or 5 of the bolts were already broken - I guess they just do this sometimes from expansion, contraction and corrosion... and then make the nice ticking noise... I had success removing a couple but I'm in deep trouble on 4 of them. The only good news is that the engine is not in a car so I have easy access.

My penetrating oil of choice is 50/50 trans fluid/acetone. I've never used anything better. My opinion is certainly just that, an opinion, but I've used all kinds of stuff that I did not think was as effective. It seems to have helped with some of my bolts as I couldn't get them out initially but after days of dousing, I got some out. For my remaining bolts, does it make sense to heat the head of the bolt with an acetylene torch (reddish hot). This worries me because I'm afraid to damage the aluminum head.

I am all ears on getting the broken bolts out of an aluminum head. I've read different methods... a) drill it out, b) weld a nut on, c) heat head around broken bolt and quickly quench with cold water spray, d) (most creative award goes to....) attach a battery cable (ostensibly connected to a 12v battery) to one side of the head and touch the snout of the other battery cable to the offending broken bolt. It (the broken bolt) immediately turns red hot and apparently breaks it's bonds to the aluminum head.

I am not promoting any of the above methods but I've seen them all on youtube. All of them scare the hell out of me. Should I just get ready to buy new heads?

warriorpluto

iTrader: (2)

I like the heat the bolt up and spray with water method. Works great but I've never tried it on an aluminum head

cookseyb

I weld a washer and nut on the stub, then cool it with PB Blaster or ATF and acetone mix, never failed yet.

GammaFlat

iTrader: (1)

I have now gotten 3 "rounded head" bolts out. I dremelled the heads off the bolt with a dremel outfitted with a small cutoff wheel. I was then able to take the exhaust manifold off. I "Vice Gripped" the "studs" and they came off pretty easily. They were prepped with penetrant. I'm starting to think that it would be better to cut the heads off than risk breaking them off flush at the head surface (or worse). I can't explain it but I think you are less likely to break the bolt at the head surface with the head of the bolt cut off from the start. Maybe it's moment arm or something but I've had great success so far.
I still have some "broken flush" to deal with (as well) that I believe broke on their own. Both sides have had 3 exhaust manifold gaskets... maybe to stop the exhaust leak after a few bolts broke and caused a leak?!?!
Next, it's dremel a dimple in the center of the "broken flush" bolts, drill like crazy and an "easy out" type tool...

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Read and watch the video Sloppy mechanics how to: broken exhaust manifold bolt removal *update 8/1/16

GammaFlat

iTrader: (1)

That's awesome. It certainly seems like the heating of the bolt (through the welding process) has a lot to do with the bolt letting go. Thanks for posting.

stroker87

iTrader: (7)

i've done the welding nut on a few times to heads, welder needs to be turned up and after the nut is welded on let it cool off for about 5 minutes usually works some times have to do it over if the nut comes off but does come out. on y pipe bolts i heat them with a hand held torch with a map gas (yellow) tank since its hotter then the blue get them hot then bust them loose

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

You don't want it to cool, That's part of the reason it works so well.

stroker87

iTrader: (7)

i find that if i dont give a little time for it to cool the welded nut just come right off if i let it cool a little i have better luck

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Then you may not have gotten enough heat in the weld, The weld should hold tight as soon as it's no longer red hot, That should only take seconds not minutes. If you watch the video, Even when the weld didn't hold he just put channel locks on it, On the ones that were broke so short that he couldn't weld a nut on he just built up enough bead to be able to grab it and twist it out.

jetech

after I welded onto the broken bolt or stud, I squirt a little Kroil on it and then spin'em right out

dillont

crank your welder up and weld a nut on! comes right out

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

There is no magic trick, always a chance that one may break. Be prepared to drill and tap holes and install new bolts. And even when they dont break they usually demolish the threads. Just the nature of the beast.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure what you're doing wrong but I have yet to ruin any threads on an engine in many years. I've had them break but never drill them out.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I was referring specifically to exhaust components. The constant extreme heat cycling WILL fatigue the metal. If you get header/cat flanges apart without damage you better go play the lottery.