what can i do
09-19-2004, 04:12 PM
#2
11 Second Club
Um..........okay...............
What do you drive??? What gears? What six speed do you want to beat? What mods would you, other supposed car have?? What kind of race???
From a dig you should be okay, all else being equal. A CONVERTER really helps, though, along with some sticky tires.
What do you drive??? What gears? What six speed do you want to beat? What mods would you, other supposed car have?? What kind of race???
From a dig you should be okay, all else being equal. A CONVERTER really helps, though, along with some sticky tires.
09-19-2004, 08:59 PM
#5
11 Second Club
You should be able to hang with a manual at the track anyway...or at least very close to their best if they are a very good driver. What gear ratio do you have? 2.73 or 3.23? If you check the codes on your driver's door sticker the 3.23 is GU5 and the other GUX is 2.73. Converter will make you eat an otherwise equally modded manual at the track alive. Virtually (though not totally) guranteed. They basically can't keep up, hp for hp, until they get a new clutch and rear end to handle the shock of the launch.
09-19-2004, 09:43 PM
#6
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
hp for hp, until they get a new clutch and rear end to handle the shock of the launch.
To beat a manual from a roll you will need power mods. To beat one from a stop, a stall, trans cooler and tires would be good.
-Todd
09-19-2004, 10:40 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
You should be able to hang with a manual at the track anyway...or at least very close to their best if they are a very good driver. What gear ratio do you have? 2.73 or 3.23? If you check the codes on your driver's door sticker the 3.23 is GU5 and the other GUX is 2.73.
(all A4 SS's came with the performance gears).
A4 Z28's we're either 2.73's (GU2) OR 3.23
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09-20-2004, 08:03 AM
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coo; ok my friend has a 2002 ws6 and everytime we go from a stop i beat him off the line . When we go from a 20 mile role we are side by side until we shut off. but from a 60 role he pulls me by a car.
he told me he did the free air mod and by passed the throtle body and now he has exhaust so what power adders do i need?
he told me he did the free air mod and by passed the throtle body and now he has exhaust so what power adders do i need?
09-20-2004, 09:15 AM
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Part of the A4 problem is just crappy shift point
programming from the factory. Particularly the
kickdowns at part throttle. Your best power
added is to get in and stay in the powerband.
I wouldn't screw with the free ram air since you
have an SS hood. There is no "ram air" from either
but the SS hood does a pretty good job of giving
you cold air as-is. FRA will have you sucking in hot
air at idle and low speed.
A performance converter that does not cost you
major efficiency up top is mod #1. Add to it a tranny
cooler for survival, better tires to hook afterward,
and if you really want it right something like HPTuners
to tailor the shift action to suit you.
In fact you might go for the tuning capability early.
You should be able to pick up a lot of improvement
between engine tuning and shiftpoints. At the time,
I felt that my Predator was on a par with the converter
as far as band for buck; however full-featured tuning
software/cable is a hell of a better bang for not much
more buck.
Depending on mechanical aptitude and tools-at-hand,
you might want to port your TB. Do not touch the MAF
until you are up to speed at tuning. You can do the TB
bypass when you port the TB.
programming from the factory. Particularly the
kickdowns at part throttle. Your best power
added is to get in and stay in the powerband.
I wouldn't screw with the free ram air since you
have an SS hood. There is no "ram air" from either
but the SS hood does a pretty good job of giving
you cold air as-is. FRA will have you sucking in hot
air at idle and low speed.
A performance converter that does not cost you
major efficiency up top is mod #1. Add to it a tranny
cooler for survival, better tires to hook afterward,
and if you really want it right something like HPTuners
to tailor the shift action to suit you.
In fact you might go for the tuning capability early.
You should be able to pick up a lot of improvement
between engine tuning and shiftpoints. At the time,
I felt that my Predator was on a par with the converter
as far as band for buck; however full-featured tuning
software/cable is a hell of a better bang for not much
more buck.
Depending on mechanical aptitude and tools-at-hand,
you might want to port your TB. Do not touch the MAF
until you are up to speed at tuning. You can do the TB
bypass when you port the TB.
09-20-2004, 10:28 AM
#14
SSRA/FTRA/even an SLP CAI is much better then an SS hood if you don't want to do the Free-Ram-Air mod (fra). FRA is when you cut the the bottom of the air box out so you draw in more air. SSRA/FTRA/SLP seals the airbox so you draw only air from under the car.
I would read JRP's newbie mod guides. They are a great help
-Todd
I would read JRP's newbie mod guides. They are a great help
-Todd