Allergik2dyin

So I've yet to purchase an LS1 yet even though Ive been looking for over half a year but I wanted some advice on my set up. My goals: Daily driver, taken to the track a few times a year, nothing serious..eventually want a high 11 second car but "satisfied" with a mid 12s for a while haha.
The Set-up (up for debate obviously): Exhaust (true duals most likely/GMMG) or should I keep the stock exhaust and just have an electric cut out? QTP/Kooks (pacesetters if money becomes an issue, pulley, ls6, lid, eventually a cam, maybe F13 (up for suggestions considering my goals). The of course the suspension stuff like LCA, SFCs...anything else? What do you think? Advice/comments...

kkkevvvinnn

true duals with a mr.gas x pipe....if you want it all together go to www.lanesperformance.com or www.texas-speed.com a good pair of long tubes...pacesetters sound good and are cheap

tripps

iTrader: (7)

If money becomes a problem, then go with Hooker LT's instead of Pacesetters. I'd do the pacesetter's if money becomes a big problem. If you are going to daily drive it, then probably get an ORY and then the GMMG setup. Probably would be more tolerable than Duals.

No one can really tell you what to get and you get the best satisfaction out of it. Just research around in the forums, probably the best place to for LS1's on the net. You'll find out exactly what you want that will fit your needs.

firechicken2k

a4 or m6?

tripps

iTrader: (7)

Im guessing m6 bc he said nothing about a stall, but could be wrong.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

you can achieve high 11's with bolt ons only if you do it right...

with stock internals and NA i ran a 7.77 1/8 which is about a 11.9x 1/4 usually

Allergik2dyin

Yes it would definitely be a M6. What would be "the right" way to go about to get a high 11second bolt-on car? What does everyone think about hooker LTs vs Pacesetters? Would Hooker be the better bet if money became an issue rather than Pacesetter? Or should I just do it right the first time and save up enough to get Kooks or QTPs? Also what about some good options for cam selection, again taking into consideration my goals and it being a DD. I have read that the F13 makes good power and is good for a dd with the right tune, anything else worth looking at?

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

i dont think i would go after hooker there is virtualy no differance in power between pacesetter and hooker just a 200$ price differance. the quality of the new pacesetters is great, they have thick flanges & nice welds plus the fitment is not a problem anymore like the old pacesetter design.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

i wish i had the QTP headers with High Velocity Merge Collectors

StealthZ06

iTrader: (1)

It depends on what altitude you are at.

jaberwaki

If you are doing it the "right" way with an m6 then plan on strengthing the car first...

clutch...the stock peice wont last 3-4 hard launches.
rear/4.11 gear... after the clutch, kiss your stocker goodbuy.
driveshaft... aluminum is for soda cans....
3-4 shift fork... steel is real
SFC's... no bodys likes a twisted chassis
tq arm.... stamped steel sucks
LCA's... put the power to the ground
drag sway bar... will keep you strait
panhard rod... keep the tires strait
et drags...... traction is GOOD

after this stuff racing at the track is fun..... heat tires... stage .... find 6000 rpms... sidestep clutch... hold one for dearlife and try not to miss a shift...

throw in full bolt ons..... and welcome to the club

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

word!

i did all my chassis mods..... BMR Xtreme stuff to get the power to the ground... then did the bolt ons (except for electric water pump).
then stalled it (ss4000e)
then do a tad of weight reduction..... spare tire & jack...etc.

and wahlah! 11.9x's

jaberwaki

my stuff is all spohn... but bmr Xtreme is just as good

weight reduction and getting the power to the ground are the key to your car running its full potential...

Allergik2dyin

Im in MD and Id run it at cecil county where the D/A is like a couple hundred feet; its practically sea level and some say the track is pretty much all downhill haha. I was planning on doing my supporting mods like torque arm, LCA's etc along with some of the smaller bolt ons before I got to cam and even headers.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

this guy gets smarter and smarter every time i read his post...

darrensls1formula

Get ready to spend a small fortune

First off you need some power,

Lid $100
Catback or cutout $30 up to $800
LT headers with ORY or Catted Y $500 up to $1300

Now you need some M6 specific items,

New shifter $170
Clutch $350 up to $1300
skip shift eliminator (optional) $20

Now because you have a M6 your 10 bolt rear end will snap like a twig once you shoot for a decent 60' time at the track. You also need gears so may as well kill two birds with one stone.

12 bolt with 4.10's $2,000

Finally you'll need some traction.

Pair of Nitto or BFG drag radials $300

That should put you in high 11's with decent elevation, weather and driving. But as you see the cost is considerable especially if you buy top of the line products like Kooks headers, GMMG catback, exedy clutch, ect.

This is one of the few times I'm glad I have an automatic. 10 bolt is safe for awhile and a TCI torque converter can do wonders for the ET.

Good luck

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

small fortune goes with out saying....

ive got about $15,000 in my setup. counting all costs... shipping and installs...etc...

fast car = broke joke

jaberwaki

once you get your ls1.

join

www.fbodycentral.com/forum

come hang out with us when we rent maryland international raceway

jaberwaki

total there is about 50k in this dam car...

i dropped 15 k in her this year...

once we get her dialed in i should be changing my member status

Allergik2dyin

Thanks alot I joined now just for the heck of it. Hopefully I'll be getting my LS1 very soon.