number1gun

getting a formy finaly i want to turbo it but for now wat would be the best mods for performance and some extra power

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

lid, ( a lid is a lid is a ****** lid) cat back, headers, ls6 intake, some type of CAI such as the SSRA would all be really good, and gears can really make a car wake up. also a new shifter for an M6 and converter for an A4

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

converter first thing if a auto...lid...there are many free, and cheap things you can do. simple weight reduction, free mods, lid, cutout are all worth whiel just do a search on here you can find anything...

here is a link that will really help you out read it and it will cover most everything
click me

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

If your doing a underhood turbo anytime soon i wouldn't bother with LT Headers unless your getting the STS rear mount turbo - If you are then Manual = Lid, Longtube headers. Auto = Converter, LT Headers or some 3.73's.

300bhp/ton

You have a tough decision to make.

eseentailly 90% of the normal bolt on mods are pretty pointless for an FI setup. So you'd only be wasting your money by doing them.

GMR Speed offer a nice single turbo kit. You'd need tp upgrade the fuel system and injectors and want a tune along with a catback. But that'd be enough to get you started with the FI setup and be good for 5-7psi and 450+ rwhp.

If that really is your goal then a catback and a 100 shot of nitrous are probably your best bet as they will be usable on a turbo setup.

You need to be REALISTIC though, if a turbo setup is your ideal setup but you stand no chance of actually raising the funds for it, then a n/a build up is easier and cheaper as you can do it bit at a time.

-headers
-catback
-lid
-intake manifold/TB
-pulleys
-cam
-heads

Over 400rwhp should be easy enough.

If auto you WANT a stall (~3500rpm+) check out Fuddle Racing or Yank Converters.

Rear end gears maybe a good idea but with FI it may be OTT. Plus the stock rear end is weak, aftermarket 12 bolts or 9" rears are pricey but may be needed if you're serious.

PLAN + RESEARCH 1st.

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

Lid
Cat-back
Pulley

I'd also do some suspension work and add sub-frame connectors...

number1gun

ready to be flamed for this but what is a lid

300bhp/ton

Not at all, if you don't know you don't know.

It's essentialy the top of the air box where the air filter lives.

If you're not sure though, a turbo setup may simply be too ambitious. If you have the money (try 10-15k) then you can pay some one. Else you really need to know what you are doing.

My advice would be to do a little research. The sticky's in each forum contain a lot of info, also you'll find some useful links in my sig. General automotive prinicples as well as specific LS1 points are all worth researching. I've spent about a year on research and I'm know pretty certain what I want.

And that's FI, but I can't really afford it yet. So I'm going n/a instead. I will tunr the 346ci into a nice head and cam with bolt on's setup and maybe a little nitrous and aim for 420-440rwhp n/a

Then if I ever raise the money I'll buy a 402ci short block, forged internals, low CR and probably a turbo setup and make 700rwhp+.

If you want I'll post what I consider to be a "good" n/a setup that won't break the bank plus suppliers that covers suspension, chassis and engine.

number1gun

definately that would be greatly appreiated (omg! spelling)

300bhp/ton

Right'o.

Now remember this is all "in my opinion" and there are always alternatives. However I have spent some time researching each item and supplier/manufacturer and I believe all the items to be the best value for money and will offer a competitive setup.

Also note, model year and tranny type would alter the parts list slightly. My car is a 1999 z/28 A4 with 2.73 final drive.

Engine
- lid - Texas Speed & Performance (TSP)
- FTRA (Fast Toys Ram Air) CAI
-FAST 90 intake manifold - TSP*
-P.T.A. 90mm Throttle Body - TSP*
-Pacesetter Long Tube Headers - TSP
-Texas Speed & Performance Catted Y pipe or Off Road Y pipe (ORY)**
-Catback (I have the SLP Loud Mouth, but there's lots to choose from)**
-PRC LS6 CNC Heads with Dual Springs and Competition Valve Job - TSP
-Magic Stick 4 camshaft - TSP***
-LS6 ported oil pump – TSP
-Better Timing chain (Rollmaster Double adjustable)
-Cam install kit (push rods/gaskets and such)
-ARP Head studs
-Cylinder head gaskets
-Better Fuel injectors (TSP 42lb)
-Prothane Polyurethane Transmission Mount – Thunder Racing
-Prothane Polyurethane Motor Mounts (Pair) – Thunder Racing
-Mufflex Y-Pipe "Bump Stop" Hanger – Thunder Racing (only need if you have a Y pipe)
-Crank Pulley – Thunder Racing
-Overdrive alternator pulley (automatic cars only) – Thunder Racing
-Underdrive alternator pulley (manual cars only) – Thunder Racing
-Solid adjustable belt tensioner - Katech
-EFI Live Tuning software****


* If your car is 2001-2002 it has as standard the LS6 intake manifold, this is actually pretty good and combine it with a stock ported TB (free if you do it yourself or ~$75) will perform quite well. A FAST 90/90mm TB will still be superior by 20bhp or so. For 1998-2000 cars they only have the LS1 intake and will want upgrading no matter what.

** You could go for a dual exhaust setup, which would mean you wouldn't need a Y pipe at all. You'll need to research this though.

***There are a lot of cams from mild to wild, the MS4 is pretty wild so you need to decide what you want in terms of use & driveability from the car. A custom grind may be your best option.

****A tune will be needed, but having your own software will allow you to tailor your setup and control gearing and lots of aspects of the engine/drivetrain.

N.B. Cylinder heads are an area where you could spend a lot more money. AFR 225 heads are excellent but they’ll cost you double what the PRC LS6 ones do. Research is your best friend here.

Chassis
-Single Adjustable Lower Control Arms & Panhard Bar Kit – UMI Performance
-Control Arm Bolt Upgrade Kit – UMI Performance
-Chrome Moly Shock Tower Brace – UMI Performance
-Boxed Style Weld-In Subframe Connectors – UMI Performancce
-All required install lubes for poly bushes

Suspension
-Revalved Bilstein Shocks – Sam Strano (Stano Performance Parts)
-Sway Bar Kit – Sam Strano (Strano Performance Parts)
-Mickey Thompson Street ET Radial Tyres (Drag Radials) – size would depend on rims

Transmission

Automatic
-HP/Street Series 3500 – Fuddle Racing*
-Perma Cool 20-22000 GVW Transmission Cooler – TSP
-3.42 Final Drive gears and install kit**
-Transgo shift kit (modified)

Manual
-4.10 Final Drive gears and install kit
-Shifter (such as Pro 5.0)
-Upgraded clutch

*You will need to choose your stall speed in accordance with use and cam.

**If you want less top speed and more Ό mile focus then 3.73 final drive would suit better.

I’d probably top this off with a 125 shot of nitrous and some better brakes (discs, pads & high temp fluid)

There’s probably some other sundry items that would be needed, but it should make for a pretty mean setup, that would perform well on the street, strip, straight line and in the twisties.

I'd expect to see somwhere around 440rwhp n/a with the above setup and near 550-600rwhp on the 125 shot. Drivability should be ok if a little extreme. A good tune would be important. For a more civil setup a milder cam would suit. PEAK HP would be down as would ultimate straight line speed but overall performance and streetability would probably improve. Again it's about setting your goals.

Sadly things are likely to break in which case over time I would also look at replacing these items also but only as they break:

-Built tranny – most likely for automatic only. T56 manual is pretty robust
-12 Bolt Rear end with all options and True-trac – Exotic Performance Plus
-Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm – UMI Performance*
-Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets Weld-In Only – UMI Performance**

*This item is great for Ό mile action but is generally specific to the rear end being run so if you get one when you still have a stock 10 bolt rear it may be a waste of money.

**Required due to new axle.

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/listcatsM.asp?MID=1

http://www.thunderracing.com/

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/

http://www.umiperformance.com/

http://stranoparts.com/stranoboard.php

http://www.fuddleracing.com/

http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=1

_______________________________

Remember at the end of the day the choice is yours and this setup may not be ideal for what you want.

Research, reading and understanding is always the best route. Don't forget to check out the sponors -------> and see what else is available.

As stated previously, if FI (forced inductoin) is your goal then many of the above parts would not be suitable. So setting your goals and realistic expectations is very important.

number1gun

thank you that helps alot

and ive recently noticed i cant afford turbo yet so planing a n/a build

also trying to avioid the bottle