ls1/ls2 swap is it worth it?
01-05-2007, 08:10 PM
#1
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ls1/ls2 swap is it worth it? alright, this is my first post here. the deal is i have a 99 T/A with a little man with a hammer inside the engine. i think its spun a rod bearing or a crank bearing, but i don't know. my first instinct was to replace the ls1 with an ls2 due to the extra 100 hp in the ls2, but my friend is trying to talk me into getting my ls1 rebuilt and bored out/modded to match the hp of the ls2. the reason i wanna go with the ls2 is that my motor was ran without oil for a bit which im pretty sure is why it started knocking, so i dont want to risk sinking any money into it if its just gonna develop another problem due to being ran dry (i dont know if it will or not). also i would like to know if the ls2 has all the same mounts on it like for the power steering and ac and alternator, motor mounts, will it bolt to my transmission? what do you think? stick with the ls1 or upgrade to ls2? oh yeah, my budget is 7000$.
01-05-2007, 09:41 PM
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what would be the advantage of iron other than strength? i know aluminum shatters like glass. thats how i ran it without oil, i shattered my aluminum oil pan on sumthing and didnt realize it till i heard the lifters when i turned the radio off.
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01-05-2007, 09:48 PM
#9
Originally Posted by tuna10985
alright, this is my first post here. the deal is i have a 99 T/A with a little man with a hammer inside the engine. i think its spun a rod bearing or a crank bearing, but i don't know. my first instinct was to replace the ls1 with an ls2 due to the extra 100 hp in the ls2, but my friend is trying to talk me into getting my ls1 rebuilt and bored out/modded to match the hp of the ls2. the reason i wanna go with the ls2 is that my motor was ran without oil for a bit which im pretty sure is why it started knocking, so i dont want to risk sinking any money into it if its just gonna develop another problem due to being ran dry (i dont know if it will or not). also i would like to know if the ls2 has all the same mounts on it like for the power steering and ac and alternator, motor mounts, will it bolt to my transmission? what do you think? stick with the ls1 or upgrade to ls2? oh yeah, my budget is 7000$.
ok..
an LS2 is NOT 100hp more than an LS1.
you cannot "bore out" an LS1 block.
an LS2 is NOT 402 cubic inches.
Your best bet with a 7,000$ budget would be to go with a forged 347. Get a good oil pump, timing chain, etc. Upgrade the heads/cam/intake. Beef up the rest of the car, like get a 12 bolt or even a 9 inch if you have a manual.
Forged 347 shortblock - ~3,000
Heads - anywhere from 1000 - 2500
cam - 400
intake - 400
rear end - 2500 (get a 4:10 gear for a M6, 3:73 for an A4)
convertor/clutch - ~800
Now you have a bulletproof drivetrain, and can add some spray and sticky tires. Should net 450 rwhp N/A, and you can put slicks on it at the track.
01-06-2007, 01:08 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Asmodeus
ok..
an LS2 is NOT 100hp more than an LS1.
you cannot "bore out" an LS1 block.
an LS2 is NOT 402 cubic inches.
Your best bet with a 7,000$ budget would be to go with a forged 347. Get a good oil pump, timing chain, etc. Upgrade the heads/cam/intake. Beef up the rest of the car, like get a 12 bolt or even a 9 inch if you have a manual.
Forged 347 shortblock - ~3,000
Heads - anywhere from 1000 - 2500
cam - 400
intake - 400
rear end - 2500 (get a 4:10 gear for a M6, 3:73 for an A4)
convertor/clutch - ~800
Now you have a bulletproof drivetrain, and can add some spray and sticky tires. Should net 450 rwhp N/A, and you can put slicks on it at the track.
an LS2 is NOT 100hp more than an LS1.
you cannot "bore out" an LS1 block.
an LS2 is NOT 402 cubic inches.
Your best bet with a 7,000$ budget would be to go with a forged 347. Get a good oil pump, timing chain, etc. Upgrade the heads/cam/intake. Beef up the rest of the car, like get a 12 bolt or even a 9 inch if you have a manual.
Forged 347 shortblock - ~3,000
Heads - anywhere from 1000 - 2500
cam - 400
intake - 400
rear end - 2500 (get a 4:10 gear for a M6, 3:73 for an A4)
convertor/clutch - ~800
Now you have a bulletproof drivetrain, and can add some spray and sticky tires. Should net 450 rwhp N/A, and you can put slicks on it at the track.
http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=12412M
01-09-2007, 12:03 AM
#14
ls2 extra 100hp? ls2 408? There's alot of misinformation in here. If I'm wrong, forgive the stupidity but aren't ls2's VERY simular to ls1's, and here we're talking about stripping it down and starting with nothing but the block. And are they not of the same design, the block that is. Different cranks, simular/same strength, differing heads ls2=ls6, but those will be thrown out. 7g's I would take orangeness' advice and get a iron block forged bottom end, though I would do something northwards of 346. cnc'ed ls6 heads, spray, stickies and your gold. No matter what you go with a rearend will have to be in the works.
