How a Stall works
#1
How a Stall works
I am looking to buy a z28 but my delima is A4 or M6. I was wondering how the A4 works when a stall is put on it. Would it be streetable? How does the stall affect street driving? Thanks for the help in advance.
#2
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm .... basically you pick up a lockup stall for street use.. around 3000-4000 alot of people go with 32-3600 for street use . basically when u punch it your rpm's will shoot up to your stall speed and let it loose. basically like dumping the clutch at that amount of rpms. if u dont punch it all day it wont affect gas mileage that much. but if you have a lead foot. good luck with your gas mileage
#5
no it wont stall. it just brings your rpms up quicker and your shift points will go up a little. thats why if u want a streetable stall converter dont go above 35-3600. in my case, i have a lead foot .
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#8
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 32,390
Likes: 1,814
From: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Check out the stall info on this sponsor's site as well:
www.converter.cc
Very good information there.
www.converter.cc
Very good information there.
#9
I'm an manual transmission guy, and so are all my friends. I have never driven a car with an aftermarket stall.
Your grandma's in the car. You want to drive slow. You're at a red light. Turns green. You roll onto the throttle. Does it go through all the RPMs, or does it just shoot up to the rating?
If it goes through all the RPMs, I don't understand why everyone doesn't buy a 4000+ stall. What's it matter if it only works if you punch it?
Your grandma's in the car. You want to drive slow. You're at a red light. Turns green. You roll onto the throttle. Does it go through all the RPMs, or does it just shoot up to the rating?
If it goes through all the RPMs, I don't understand why everyone doesn't buy a 4000+ stall. What's it matter if it only works if you punch it?
#10
problem is during those times it's not locked, the efficiency of the stall is down. That means to move the car x rpm at the wheels, MORE rpm at the engine is needed because it has not reached stall speed yet. The engine will be spining faster than the transmission. So at 1:1 (3rd gear), if you are accelerating (not locked yet) and are below a stall speed of say 4000 rpm (maybe 3000rpm), then in reality, your engine is 3000rpm, your transmission is only moving 2500rpm.
The benefit of a stall is that the torque amount at 3000rpm is now being applied to a lower rpm speed of 2500rpm.
In a daily driver situation, your car will drink gas if you don't settle your rpms quickly and allow it to lock up.
On track is another matter, when punching it off the line, since it's not yet at stall speed, the rpm will shoot up and the "give" will be at the stall instead of spinning the tires. During that "give" point when the rpm is shooting up, power is applied to the wheels enough to move forward somewhat. The result is when you hit the stall speed and that "give" is gone. The car should be already rolling ever so slightly, your engine will be in it's powerband, and the car will launch better. Instead of power being applied to roast the tires, more power is applied to forward velocity.
The benefit of a stall is that the torque amount at 3000rpm is now being applied to a lower rpm speed of 2500rpm.
In a daily driver situation, your car will drink gas if you don't settle your rpms quickly and allow it to lock up.
On track is another matter, when punching it off the line, since it's not yet at stall speed, the rpm will shoot up and the "give" will be at the stall instead of spinning the tires. During that "give" point when the rpm is shooting up, power is applied to the wheels enough to move forward somewhat. The result is when you hit the stall speed and that "give" is gone. The car should be already rolling ever so slightly, your engine will be in it's powerband, and the car will launch better. Instead of power being applied to roast the tires, more power is applied to forward velocity.
#11
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 32,390
Likes: 1,814
From: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I'm an manual transmission guy, and so are all my friends. I have never driven a car with an aftermarket stall.
Your grandma's in the car. You want to drive slow. You're at a red light. Turns green. You roll onto the throttle. Does it go through all the RPMs, or does it just shoot up to the rating?
If it goes through all the RPMs, I don't understand why everyone doesn't buy a 4000+ stall. What's it matter if it only works if you punch it?
Your grandma's in the car. You want to drive slow. You're at a red light. Turns green. You roll onto the throttle. Does it go through all the RPMs, or does it just shoot up to the rating?
If it goes through all the RPMs, I don't understand why everyone doesn't buy a 4000+ stall. What's it matter if it only works if you punch it?
As for everyone having 4000+ stalls, not every combo would benifit from that. People making peak power & torque at lower rpms would not want a massively high stall speed. And for street cars, the higher the stall speed, the more rpm it will take to accelerate normally from a stop.
Longer answers:
http://www.converter.cc/faq/faq_main.htm
Read that FAQ section there. This should give you a pretty good understanding.
Last edited by RPM WS6; 04-18-2007 at 10:27 AM.
#12
My car wont be a DD, but it wont be for track use only, more like a weekend car. Is the stall gonna get aggervating for this type of use? To me it sounds like even though the car isnt taking off fast the engine will still rev up to the rpms. If thats the case do they making something where i can lock the stall when I want and have it set to lock itself when I go to drag?
#13
Simple Stall Explanation:
Think of it like you are slipping the clutch. When you take off slowly from a stop, you only slip it a little bit, the more aggressively you leave from a stop the more you slip the clutch. That is what a torque converter does. Depending on how loose it is will determine how much you "slip the clutch" (when compared to a manual). Once you are cruising at a steady speed (based on throttle position, but around 40 mph), the Torque Converter Clutch will engage and lock the trans and engine, exactly like a manual.
Think of it like you are slipping the clutch. When you take off slowly from a stop, you only slip it a little bit, the more aggressively you leave from a stop the more you slip the clutch. That is what a torque converter does. Depending on how loose it is will determine how much you "slip the clutch" (when compared to a manual). Once you are cruising at a steady speed (based on throttle position, but around 40 mph), the Torque Converter Clutch will engage and lock the trans and engine, exactly like a manual.
#18
I understand how they work, and i understand stall speed selection, it's how it trasnfers inreal life that I'm not sure about. I guess the only way to really know is drive/ride in a stalled car!
#19
If you like curves stay with the manual. If you want real straight line acceleration go with an auto.
People overestimate the un-drivabilty of an aftermarket converter. Think about it. Does your factory converter instantly come up to its rating coupling speed the second you even barely touch the gas? No. Your aftermarket one won't be a 3500 rpm clutch dump the whole time either.
Just drive normally to get to your lock up speed and you will notice little loss in your MPG!
People overestimate the un-drivabilty of an aftermarket converter. Think about it. Does your factory converter instantly come up to its rating coupling speed the second you even barely touch the gas? No. Your aftermarket one won't be a 3500 rpm clutch dump the whole time either.
Just drive normally to get to your lock up speed and you will notice little loss in your MPG!
#20
Is there such a thing where you can push a button on the shifter and cause the stall to kick in and when you let off it will engauge the motor and cause the car to launch from the rpm speed that it is currently at? I wana say ive heard of something like that, but im un sure.