Z Fury

iTrader: (1)

That it is, but it does have some useful information in it.

I learned what "GC" stands for.

Fast99408

iTrader: (-1)

i use to use 10w30 royal purple but every 100hp you go up your suppose to go up a grade of oil so just remember that

Jakester136

+1^^^

6THZ28

iTrader: (11)

SAY WHAT?????? .. go up a grade of oil? the hell are you talking about? I run Mobil 1 syn and I know peeps running it with 500+hp...?? Same with royal purple and redline..

IrocZTransAm

Kendall 10w30 Synthetic Blend...been using it for 3 years and no problems. Used to use Valvoline but when we switched to Kendall where I used to work, I started using it and haven't switched back. Valvetrain noise is there on start up but oil comes out clean after 2800+miles. I may try the PP 5w30 or QuakerState 5w30 next...anyone use Q High Horsepower 5w30? Interested to know how good it is.

speedyshark

I have always used Castro 20w 50 in all my cars and tucks runs great. Just used 15w 40 in my avalanche and seems to run better.

Chubbz155

iTrader: (7)

I have always run Mobil 1 SYN in all my cars!!! No probs!!

sslateron

You get what you pay for, Amsoil, nuff said!

nrs2420

iTrader: (2)

old thread back, I'm using PP for the first time. I like it so far. My local Autozone has GC so I may try that next. It's just way more expensive.

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

So, in lower Alabama where it gets to 100 in the summer with high humidity, and 30 in the winter, what is a good grade of oil to use? I was thinking 0W-30, 5W-30, or 10W-40?

BlackWS.6

iTrader: (1)

I had a 03 silverado 5.3L from new-100k mi to just recently when i got my T/A. I ran Castrol Full syntec and excellent luck with it..i ran that in the T/A first and then switched to Mobil 1 and it seems to last longer..

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

guess ill join the old one too and all i can say is royal purple all the way,if you havent tried it you need to..

udienow

iTrader: (18)

after much research on here and bitog, I chose my first oil change on my new LS1 to be with german castrol.

DrivenWS6

iTrader: (1)

I use RotellaT 15w40 in my quad and it seems to run better then any of them expensive amsoil, and belray and everything and its dirt cheap. The shifting is twice as smooth as it ever was. I didnt think Rotella was any good but it works good in there.

I use GC in my car and it works better then anything else ive tried but since its getting harder and harder to find I might just have to try Rotella's Synthetic in my car.

fbodyman1026

iTrader: (11)

I was wondering if anyone knows the viscosity's for these oils at 40* and 100*C cSt. Mr. Incredible stated alot of them but i was wondering about these.

RP 5w30, 10w-30
PP 5w30, 10w-30
Motor craft 5w30

thanks i am currently using GC but thinking about trying another oil to see if i get any different results.

mateols1ss

iTrader: (1)

I think a 75k and up ls1 should run 10-w30 RP, mobile 1, lucas, and AMS, oil. They are exellent!

speedyshark

Will say this if the car has low mileage under 100k or is a rebuilt motor look and see what GM recommends. I think it was 5w30. Some areas of the motor may have very tight tolerances and needs thinner oil to reach those areas. Once there is high mileage and motor loosens up choice is open.

NavyBlue99SS

The perfect oil would be Amsoil signature series oil 0W-30 plain and simple. It is a PURE Group IV TRUE synthetic unlike all this other crap everybody keeps spewing off about. Mobil 1, penz platinum, Castrol syntec, German castrol, Royal purple, Valvoline synpower etc etc etc are ALL Group III Hydro cracked oils which is an inferior base stock (it is manipulated dino oil) to group IV. Group IV and V are both real honest to god POA TRUE synthetic oils.

Amsoil SSO also has a TBN of 13.1 which is MUCH higher than any other oil on the market. The higher the TBN the longer the oil will run in an engine before it needs replaced. Amsoil SSO is supposed to be able to go 35,000 miles before the TBN reaches a point that the oil is depleted. SSO is a VERY robust oil. Amsoil uses a top of the line add pack in this oil. It also has superior cold flow properties and it is the ONLY oil that has 100% eliminated the start up piston slap in my LS1.


I have used some of these other oils in my car. Here is the break down of my experiance.

Mobil 1 10W-30 = Severe piston slap that NEVER went tottaly away even at full temp. Burned very little of this oil. This oil keeps comeing back with higher iron numbers than the other oils.

Penz platinum = Less piston slap than mobil 1 but the car burned 2 quarts in 3000 miles. This is good oil if your car doesnt burn it off. Some do and some dont.

Looking at UOA's of german castrol showed higher wear in LSX engines and its getting hard to find anyway.

I wouldnt even touch royal purple if it was the last oil on earth. It shears out of its grade very easily and generaly comes back with average to poor UOA's.

Patman

German Castrol uses absolutely no group 3 in it, and Pennzoil Platinum uses the highest quality group 3 which is so close in performance to group 4/5 that it's too close to call. My oil analysis results have proven Pennzoil Platinum to be an extremely good oil with low engine wear.

NavyBlue99SS

Get the hell over on bobistheoilguy where you belong!

Navyblue99ss=prostreetcamaro


PP is a great oil but I would rather not burn off 2 quarts every 3000. I have never been a beleiver in the "engine has to get used to the new oil" myth and thats why I didnt stick with it.

Your right I shouldnt have included GC in the group III. But the reports I have seen on it have been less than stellar.

Lets face it good ole dino oil almost always brings back good reports and if changed on a regular basis does a fantastic job. I on the other hand cant stand changing the oil in my SS so I am going with SSO from here on out and doing it once a year.