Changing your spark plugs? READ ME!<pics>
05-19-2007, 02:04 AM
#1
Changing your spark plugs? READ ME!<pics> Alright, so i wanted to shed some light for people who have never done a LS1 set of plugs and wires before.
Possible symptoms of bad plugs: Missing/sputtering during WOT runs, poor fuel mileage.(both of which i had. Now she runs like a champ!)
Buy beer, call friends over. This was by far the most frustraiting thing i've ever done to my car, and i've already done a tranny mount and replaced the entire rear end by myself.
1) Take off the AIR hookups from the headers, this will save time and your knuckles.
2) Go out and buy various extentions and swivle extensions, they help!
3)Call over a friend who has smaller hands, fortunately i'm not a large person, so it helps.
4) DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT over tighten the plugs, you'll see why.
5)On the passenger side, I took off the the 1st 3 coil packs, provided some room to move around.
6) Buy some extra plugs.
Here are my old plugs, I have no idea when the last time they were changed, for all i know, they could be the originals(and my car have 99k on the clock!)
2 of them were actually cracked! All of them had a whiteish residue with a nasty smell, some of them had a yellowish tint to them. The old plugs were gapped anywhere between .55 and .65. The wires were also bad, some were torn, one all the way to the wire.
The drivers side took about 35-40 min and that was taking my sweet time. Now the passenger side, oh boy the fun part. Plugs one and three(meaning the 1st 2 plugs on the passenger side) were quite easy when the AIR was removed, and the coil packs out. Number 5 plug took about 10 min because its just a tight spot.
And now the dreaded number 7 plug. Take a breather, all you have to do is take your time and everything will be ok!
Me personally, I pulled the wire from the top, and went underneath to get the plug. I took the tire off, and jacked the car up as much as I could. I got the plug socket on the plug, then used a 3/8th swivle with a 1" extension to slowly take it off.
Now, reattach your plug wires, AIR, coil pack and anything else you took off in the process. And please double check for tools left in the engine bay.
Some cautions and extra tips:
Their is a sensor on the block near plug 2 (1st plug on the drivers side) that I belive is a knock sensor. I disconnected this to make sure i did not break in while getting the plug out.
Double check the gap. Some people say their pregapped and you have nothing to worry about, but a 99 cent gap tool works nicely.
Make sure you have the right plugs and the right gap for your application. For me, I used NGK TR-55 plugs gapped at about .55. This is a N/A no spray stock motor.
DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE PLUGS!
Seriously, do not do it. Wanna know why you buy extra plugs?
Becuase that may happen. I thought the swivle extension was locked, I destroyed a new NGK-R plug. That resulted me saying "wtf was that noise?"
Then it was a " YOU'VE GOT TO BE F@#KING KIDDING ME" while i whipped the wrench across the garage. Luckly my friend called the local Advanced and got a few extras
.
If anyone has better suggestions, ideas or changes, let me know!
-Spaz
Possible symptoms of bad plugs: Missing/sputtering during WOT runs, poor fuel mileage.(both of which i had. Now she runs like a champ!)
Buy beer, call friends over. This was by far the most frustraiting thing i've ever done to my car, and i've already done a tranny mount and replaced the entire rear end by myself.
1) Take off the AIR hookups from the headers, this will save time and your knuckles.
2) Go out and buy various extentions and swivle extensions, they help!
3)Call over a friend who has smaller hands, fortunately i'm not a large person, so it helps.
4) DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT over tighten the plugs, you'll see why.
5)On the passenger side, I took off the the 1st 3 coil packs, provided some room to move around.
6) Buy some extra plugs.
Here are my old plugs, I have no idea when the last time they were changed, for all i know, they could be the originals(and my car have 99k on the clock!)
2 of them were actually cracked! All of them had a whiteish residue with a nasty smell, some of them had a yellowish tint to them. The old plugs were gapped anywhere between .55 and .65. The wires were also bad, some were torn, one all the way to the wire.
The drivers side took about 35-40 min and that was taking my sweet time. Now the passenger side, oh boy the fun part. Plugs one and three(meaning the 1st 2 plugs on the passenger side) were quite easy when the AIR was removed, and the coil packs out. Number 5 plug took about 10 min because its just a tight spot.
And now the dreaded number 7 plug. Take a breather, all you have to do is take your time and everything will be ok!
Me personally, I pulled the wire from the top, and went underneath to get the plug. I took the tire off, and jacked the car up as much as I could. I got the plug socket on the plug, then used a 3/8th swivle with a 1" extension to slowly take it off.Now, reattach your plug wires, AIR, coil pack and anything else you took off in the process. And please double check for tools left in the engine bay.
Some cautions and extra tips:
Their is a sensor on the block near plug 2 (1st plug on the drivers side) that I belive is a knock sensor. I disconnected this to make sure i did not break in while getting the plug out.
Double check the gap. Some people say their pregapped and you have nothing to worry about, but a 99 cent gap tool works nicely.
Make sure you have the right plugs and the right gap for your application. For me, I used NGK TR-55 plugs gapped at about .55. This is a N/A no spray stock motor.
DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE PLUGS!
Seriously, do not do it. Wanna know why you buy extra plugs?
Becuase that may happen. I thought the swivle extension was locked, I destroyed a new NGK-R plug. That resulted me saying "wtf was that noise?"
Then it was a " YOU'VE GOT TO BE F@#KING KIDDING ME" while i whipped the wrench across the garage. Luckly my friend called the local Advanced and got a few extras
.If anyone has better suggestions, ideas or changes, let me know!
-Spaz
Last edited by SpaZMaN; 05-19-2007 at 02:18 AM.
05-19-2007, 03:05 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by SpaZMaN
I plan to remove the AIR EGR and the cats next week. The 7th plug was the only one i went from the bottom, i was taking my time.
One step of a time for me!
One step of a time for me!
05-19-2007, 03:07 AM
#6
Originally Posted by SpaZMaN
Then it was a " YOU'VE GOT TO BE F@#KING KIDDING ME" while i whipped the wrench across the garage.
I am also a wrench thrower...its best I work alone as im prone to accidently hurt someone.
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05-19-2007, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SpaZMaN
really? i thought it was the other way around?
05-19-2007, 05:04 PM
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The trick I've always used on my car is to take the coil pack rack completely off (if 99 or newer) put the plug socket on the plug and use short and deepwell sockets on the end of the plug socket with different sized rachets. When I put my coil pack rack back on I only put the first three bolts back on to make it easier to take off next time. Also, use dielectric (sp?) on the plugs wires to make it easier to get them back onto the coils and plugs.
05-19-2007, 05:41 PM
#13
1st time I did #8, on my SS, I also used a swivel ratchet and an extension from the bottom. It sukked! With my Z, I put a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on a 1/2 drive swivel tip breaker bar and used a 3/8 12 point socket. Perfect length and angle. I did #8 1st on my Z to go ahead and get it done, tool combo worked so well, I did all the plugs with it. On both cars, the plugs were factory originals and tight as hell. The added leverage of the breaker bar made loosening the plugs easy.
Pic:
In action:
.
Pic:
In action:
.
05-19-2007, 05:50 PM
#14
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pn# sle-30102 at summit and a 3/4 gear wrench makes all the difference.its a socket that lets the end of the spark plug stick out and eliminates the need for swivels and all that.truly worth it.and dont forget the anti sieze.
05-21-2007, 01:00 PM
#16
Originally Posted by TMar99Z28
The trick I've always used on my car is to take the coil pack rack completely off (if 99 or newer) put the plug socket on the plug and use short and deepwell sockets on the end of the plug socket with different sized rachets. When I put my coil pack rack back on I only put the first three bolts back on to make it easier to take off next time. Also, use dielectric (sp?) on the plugs wires to make it easier to get them back onto the coils and plugs.
