okarcheta

iTrader: (9)

I got a 2000 trans am. Ive heard that the rear ends are weak. What do i need to do to beef it up so i dont worry about snaping it?

CLUBBER LANG

a 9" or 12 bolt

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

haha... funny, but that's pretty much the answer if you want to put down any serious hp numbers. If you've got an auto, your factory rear may last a while. If you've got a 6 speed, you're gonna destroy it in no time when you start modding (might even kill it in stock form).

There's a couple thngs you can do, which may or may not actually help.

You can get a TA Performance (or similar) Rear End Girdle/Cover. For about $150-170 it MAY slightly decrease your risk of breaking your rear gears. Some fluids even claim to have "shock absorbing" qualities that will help save the rear end. Probably all or mostly BS. 10 bolts break easily, period.

A 12 Bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60 (if you're making SERIOUS power) conversion will cost you a pretty penny. New prices will range from about $1800-2600 for the complete assembly. Moser makes GM 12 bolts and Ford 9 inch rears that fit F bodies. Strange makes GM 12 bolt and Chrysler Dana 60 rears that fit f bodies. They are all expensive, and they are not flawproof, but still the easiest solution to the 10 bolt you got dealt.

Another solution, although not thoroughly proven, is to remove an 8.5" (vs. your stock 7.5") GM 10 bolt Rear End from another GM Vehicle with to proper width. Then have all the mounts welded up to use your factory suspension with that rear end. It is said, that these are very strong rears, possibly even stronger than the GM 12 bolt. I've also heard that this conversion can be accomplished for well under $1000.

2000TurboVert

iTrader: (17)

Buy a 9" with a spool and forget it!

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Sucks that GM put such a **** rear end in such an awesome car... I mean, a 7.5" 10 Bolt in an LS1 Fbody, is kinda like a really hot chick with a stinky puss. You really wanna get on it, but then again, you really don't.

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

^lol!!!

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

you can weld, change the bearings, and reinforce several other parts....it will help alot, but depending on what tires you run and how often you beat on it....will determine how long it might last...autos will last longer because they preload

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...+proof+10+bolt

I found this a couple of months back. I really can't say how good it works because I haven't tried it yet. It was some real interesting reading though. I thought you might like to take a look.

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

Im having rear end problems on my 98 t/a its an auto. Had the seal replaced, 2 weeks later leaking again and pinion bearing exploded taking out the gear and axel bearings. Could be didnt get pinion nut tight enough and vibrated things to pieces. If you do the work yourself your way better off. I want to get a 9in instead of keep throwing money into what i got. Bottom line is its just a matter of time unless you never drive it hard EVER

85Iroc

iTrader: (12)

I say this a lot .......... IMO, don't put any money into the 7.5" rear if you EVER plan to put sticky tires on it. Doesn't matter how much money you put into it, it WILL break. I know a guy that put $1000 into his 7.5" & it broke the very first launch at the track.

If you have someone who can weld, the 8.5" 10-bolt is a very good option. I put a stock one in my 3rd gen with only a gear change & mini-spool & everything else stock held up to many 6.0s to 6.20s passes off a transbrake. I used ladder bars but curry & I believe moser offer tq arm brackets that you can use now so it would be a pretty easy swap, besides keeping ABS.

00TurboTA

7.5 10 bolts are worthless dont waste ur money trying to beef it up, spend the money on a 12 bolt or a 9 inch, then u dont have to worry

DJ_951

I think this is the way to go if their would be more info. The shock load is what kills the diff., shatters. With out drag slicks on a sticky track the tires should break loose before the rear end goes. (hahaha) There was a good write up on making a 7.5 have a chance at living through higher hp/drag use. Just remember half the people on this board brake 12 bolts regularly, or it seems like it There is just something wrong with using a FORD 9". (its really heavy too)

Just find a $150 used 7.5 in good shape for back-up

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

This is a good thread, as is the CZ28 link above.
What vehicles and years of those vehicles have a 8.5" of the proper width? I'm a total newb, but I thought you had to shorten the axles.

ReFtheMC

iTrader: (6)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/510589-when-will-my-10-bolt-break.html

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

to answer your question on how to beef up the stock 7.5... c clip eliminators .weld the axle tubes aftermarket gears axles and a good carrier and good bearings also a girdle.......Im running auburn diff,motive gears,and moser axles.......with a richmond master overhaul kit....seems to ne holdin up pretty good.....

however the 12 bolt 9" or s60 would be way better...

texas99Z28

My nephew has a 2002 Formula. He has the stock rear-end, beats the crap out of it on the the street and at thye track... Still going strong... I don't think they're as weak as people say!

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

How much power is he making? What kind of tires? M6 or Auto?

PowerShift408

iTrader: (44)

For the love of God... please do not put any time, money, or effort into the stock rear end.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Tell that to my two broken 7.5"s, that were broken with only a couple bolt ons, on street tires. This car has never been down the 1/4.

RoDan

hey jmdale, what exactly have you been breaking in the rear-end with just bolt-ons and street tires? gears themselves? the diff? You are running the 3.90 motives, which are Italian made gears and they are not as robust. What have your other previous setups been?

In the T/A I went with Motive USA 4.10's not the Italian 4.11's and they are working great and are very durable gears. If you run the US made Motive 3.42/3.73/4.10 you are better off than with the cheesy Richmond or Italian made motives.

NEVER put sticky tires on the stock rear, or you are running a serious risk of it breaking when you hook. I also run a TA girdle and ARP stud kit, but I got both of those used for 70 from a friend so it wasn't like I was sinking a lot of money money at it, I figure it might help it live a little longer until I can scrape together some cash to get a better rear-end. My plans for this car are small now that I have this 408 Z to throw money at, the T/A has taken a back burner.

Bottom line: If its gonna be a DD and/or an ultra mild street machine then you are fine with the stock 7.5'' However, if you want to track it at all with sticky tires, then you are betting against the house--and the house always wins eventually.