JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I did the FTRA intitially. It caused my car to overheat real fast in traffic (Florida summer temps). It did feel barely a little faster over about 50 mph ... barely.

I sold the kit and put it back to normal. The car no longer had a overheating issues.

I have since installed a WS9 US Exotics ram air hood with the taller airbox. It now seems to be more than just-a-little-faster over 50 mph except with no over heating this time.

I guess it's all subjective to the driver, but, it only makes sense to me the 'volumetric efficiency' formula would prove a slight gain. If you have a stronger air intake charge, it should allow the the motor to make more power, but, with a 90/90 setup, maybe it wouldn't really matter.

So, to add to the age-old debate, I'm with Nine Ball. I felt a slight improvement each time I went the ram air route ... a little with the FTRA ... more than 'just a little' with the ram air hood and lower airbox ... I guess because of the forced air flow directly into the airbox.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I only need .038 to put me in the 11's. I'm sealing it today because I didn't realize there is about a 3/4" gap between the hood and the airbox when it's closed. To me, to get in the 11's isn't 'just a waste of time'. Sealing the airbox is free, so, it's off to Sears for some weather stripping!!!!

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

The thread was created in the 'Racers Lounge' for discussion.
Remember? You posted in it when it was there.
It got moved to the newbie section by a mod to help show new owners that Ram Air is BS.

The 'intake charge' comes from cold, fresh air.
Its already been proven the effect of Ram Air is VERY VERY VERY little to none.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Wow from an outright HOAX and bullshit to it works but very little.....LMFAO

Internet know it all, with just enough knowledge regurgitated from message boards to seem like he knows something...no comments on all the OTHER stuff? VE, heads/cam being too big? You have read all THAT stuff also...no comment?


David

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Hey, it works for me ... LMAO!!!

unit213

I have a comment....



...and all this time, I've been doing things the wrong way. I've
been pumping 19psi of boost into the cylinders when I should've
been focusing on the airbox!

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

Very little? As in 'WASTE OF TIME HOAX BULLSHIT', and your little vents and sealed airbox don't do d.i.c.k. to help performance and you feel like a moron because you just got shown that youve been wasting your time and now your mad at me?



And the internet know it all comment is just too good.
Sounds like something that comes from a 'tool'.
Atleast I am smart enough to know Ram Air is bullshit and not worth ANYONE's time when better gains are had taking a **** to increase performance.

I would feel like a moron too if I had a 400+rwhp car and needed someone to tell me my scoops don't actually "Ram" air.
F***ing I****

Some people are just born a little 'slower' then others

johnnybravo

I had to install a tailhook and stretch a cable across the driveway.....

Darn that ram-air hood.......

johnnydje

iTrader: (12)

i agree with 213 do a test thats the only way,{iat} tell the story.ram air has worked for me in the past.just my .02

johnnybravo

According to my hi skool physics teacher, cooler air is more dense, therefore containing more oxygen molecues. That is why COLD air intake kits are a popular mod.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Worked for me, as well. As stated previously, the FTRA caused my car to overheat. The ram air hood with taller airbox brought cooler air directly into the intake and didn't block the radiator like the FTRA did, which was disallowing crossflow of sufficient air through the radiator and over heating the car.

I felt a slight improvement from the direct cooler airflow when I did my WS9 hood and taller WS6 airbox ... not a huge difference, but, a difference just the same.

As I had said, I'm with Nine Ball on this one since my best run to date is 12.038. If .05 is gained or even close, that will put me into 11's and it's very much worth it to me, considering I bought the hood and taller airbox more for the 'look' than anything.

Being a full weight car, I'm now going to do Bogart D10's and tires, 2-piece front rotors, and going back to MT Street DR's, which should put me low 11's ... a little more weight reduction will get me in the 10's. Then comes the cog-driven D1SC with 8-rib kit.

Still will be my DD. I only live 2 miles from work. At that point, I don't guess I'll have to care much about the 'ram air effect', however, I'll still have that WS9 badass looking hood ... LOL!

Omec

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=burnzilla;8391220]Very little? As in 'WASTE OF TIME HOAX BULLSHIT', and your little vents and sealed airbox don't do d.i.c.k. to help performance and you feel like a moron because you just got shown that youve been wasting your time and now your mad at me?



And the internet know it all comment is just too good.
Sounds like something that comes from a 'tool'.
Atleast I am smart enough to know Ram Air is bullshit and not worth ANYONE's time when better gains are had taking a **** to increase performance.

I would feel like a moron too if I had a 400+rwhp car and needed someone to tell me my scoops don't actually "Ram" air.
F***ing I****



Sounds like someone has "Ram Air envy"

z2fast8

ram-air=cold-air and yea it will build a small amout of boost if ur doin like 150 other than that its just cold air

SOM02WS6

Its not going to make any boost there will still be a vacuum present in the intake tract. There is no way that it is going to build a positive boost pressure. But it would however help the engine grab some cold air with a little less resistance.

unit213

That's a false statement.

z2fast8

how much psi of vacuum does an average ls1 make at full throttle?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I'm not sure where this Ram Air = 0.5-1.0 psi of forced induction comes from either...that is some seriously made up, seriously wrong ****. Damn you internet dumbasses...

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Ideally, you should be pulling NO vacuum at WOT (although I think in kPa, not psi). My car (stock cam) idles at 25-30 kPa, and for some strange reason, it pulls a little vacuum at WOT so it only gets to 96-97 kPa instead of 100-105 kPa like it should. So convert that to psi if you wish, but that is just one data point.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Oh, and before you go wondering what "true" ram air would do in my situation, I can tell you for a fact that with an FTRA hooked up and my air box all sealed off, it made no difference in the MAP readings at WOT on the same day, same conditions, etc, about an hour apart.

Malarchy...it's all malarchy. I've spent a lot of money experimenting with this crap, and it didn't do me a damn bit of good. All the FTRA was good for was screwing up some of the fins on my A/C condensor and blocking off too much airflow to my radiator.

KENS_SS_4

It is a proven fact that it increases hp greatly (as long as you are moving forward at least 300 mph).