unit213

Wrong.

For the other guy, Billy Glidden ran SSO...not Pro 5.0. He's now trying
to run Pro Stock.

unit213

Correct.

Looking for power in a "ram air" setup is like pissing in the wind.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Once again, you are completely mistaking my words!!! I said a 350ci can only possibly fit a certain amount of air into its cylinders without forced induction. If a XXX volumed cylinder is filled and emptied XXX times per minute, a set amount of air has passed through it in that time period - there is no getting past that! Of course not every 350 moves that same air - that is rediculous! Cam, heads, intake, altitude, weather, and humidity all effect how much air passes through an engine at a certain rpm - although without forced induction it still cannot pass that size limit of the chambers...a fancy hood does not either In an N/A engine more power is made by moving the air in and out faster, thereby filling the cylinders more completely during the cams durations - not by cramming more into the cylinders! That is BASIC engine theory! Ram air on a ws6 is NOT forced induction, and therefore CANNOT get past the same air limits all 346/350ci engines face! I really cannot believe your thought processes are so backwards.

Theoretically, do you think if you cut off the top of an intake manifold so it got all the air it could ever use, it will make more power on a stock 350 LT1 then the same stock engine with an accufab ~1350 CFM???? OF COURSE NOT! It already has the capability to move twice as much air as it could ever use without forced induction!

Will a huge chambered 220 headed/4barrell accufab on a stock cube/stock cam LT1 make it faster at the track?? HELL NO!

There is such thing as "too much". Your kind of reasoning is why there are so many overcammed LT1s stuck in the 12s.

Grimlock

iTrader: (5)

You caught me off guard on that one!

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Billy Glidden DID at one point run Pro 5.0

http://www.skinnykidracecars.com/about/qa


David

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Yes, but you have to dig back to 1998-1999 when we were bored and all there was to do was invent free mods. On my blue Formula, I cut holes in the front of the hood support that fed cool air directly into my airbox. This functioned exactly like a WS6 hood with the baffle removed. I could test it simply by putting duct tape on the backside to block the holes. IATs instantly went to ambient as soon as the car moved. With the previous closed hood, it would take a few seconds to flush the hot radiator/engine air out of the engine bay for the temps to drop. My 60' times actually improved with the hood cut. So, I eventually put on a factory WS6 hood just because I liked how they looked too.

Going waaaay back:

unit213

You're right on that, but SSO was his bread and butter and
that's what he most recently ran. Trust me, my best friend
raced him a million times in SSO. Here's a vid of my boy
beating Billy. vid

Notice how Billy was in front by 2 cars...he got beat by 2 cars.

unit213

THE CANNIBAL!



Good info Tony.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

You contradict yourself over and over and over. You way of thinking(which is PURELY what you have read on message boards and repeated, nothing else) makes it impossible to do anything outside the box, a 220CC head is NOT too big for an EFI 350 inch engine PERIOD!

I have a 250CC port on a 383, Mindgame on Cz28.com back in the day had a 18* head converted for a 383 LT1 with a similar port size that made 540 to the wheels through a six speed and ran 9's normally aspirated. My engine in a six speed car with a 12 bolt would make 510+ to the wheels on stock electronics under 7000 rpm, in a 3000 lb car would run high 9's on pumpfuel, idles great, drives great.....explain that one smart guy. I guess MY heads are too big? I would go faster with smaller heads?

600 flywheel hp on 23* heads on pumpfuel is pretty impressive, I guess my combo is ALL wrong? Smaller throttlebody, heads and cam...I would go quicker? Power peaks at 6500 rpm....I have HUGE everything..right? Not possible? Well it does.

In a month or so I will have my 10 second slip in a 3800lb, drag radial pumpgas streetcar WITH overdrive. If my car had a 3500 lb raceweight(like you) it would run 10.60's No problem.


Here is the dyno graph, this is JUST like it is driven on the street AND raced at the track, I change NOTHING.

Filter in the box, FULL mufflex exhaust, no cutout. These numbers were with two hurt pistons(bad fuel) now it makes at least 475 to the tires through a 4L60E, Steel driveshaft and a 9 inch rear with a Detroit locker...ALL heavy. I did not build a dyno queen OR a one hit wonder...it is built to be durable and live.



Your old school theories that you read about do not apply anymore.

As for the hood deal, if it stops raining and I get the rear back in the car this weekend. I will do my test with the scan tool.

Read what 9 Ball posted above, it made his car quicker.....


David

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

right, but also read what tony posted several pages back.. everyone agrees it works, just not hardly at all. i have free ram air on mine because every little bit helps. but i didn't cut it and expect to be lined up with John Force

LrngCrv

Yeah and your lungs are trying to pull over 100-200 gallons of air into them every second. Those pro stock guys are on crack too, why are they putting all that drag on their cars?

Pressure bonuses can be had on the intake just as easily as they are in the exhaust. The bonuses from a WS6 "Ram Air" setup are probably negligible even if it is sealed to the hood though. Isn't the front of the car designed to push the air above the canopy? That means mostly over the openings on the hood right?

It is a very good location for a CAI tho (if it was sealed up well)... much better than from in front of the radiator (depending on design) and lower IAT is something that is nice regardless of the ram air effect.

hndakilr

Shooter_Jay

I'm not sure how that will work out for you if it's sealed from your nostrils to the air box, you'll get 0 flow?


As for the table showing hp limits at rpms, I would guess that is for at sea level N/A and could be changed greatly by applying a positive pressure differential on the intake (nPSI at the intake, ie. forced induction), which would increase the density, which would cram more molecules through in the same rpm causing more power.

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

The Performance difference comes from Cold, fresh air.

The 'Ram Air' effect is so small you might as well consider it bullshit.
It doesn't help your car.
People get more HP from switching to a good oil.

85firebird

my friend has a 99 z28 and he put a SLP CAI in it and we both noticed a huge difference from stock, im not sure but isn't that the difference in a z28 and SS is the factory SLP CAI?

Asmodeus

Yes, very minute considering I can blow 2 psi into a boost guage

Shooter_Jay

That means nothing because you don't have to maintain flow for a gauge, if you blew into an intake with a psi guage, you wouldn't get it to rise unless you kept blowing it up like a balloon, but you can't begin to compare to the flow of 100 mph.

Now don't get me wrong, ram air is only going to really help you any on high/top speed runs. As I made my point in the 3rd or so post in this thread.

waldershrek

iTrader: (1)

only if you're going eleventy billion mph

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

The front of the box is open, there is a passage for it to get air from in the hood latch area.


If the MONSOON in south Alabama will stop I will go piddle around and take some readings.


David

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

BTW funny how the thread starter opened this thread up in NEWBIE LS1tech, most guys in here are beginners...LOL.


David