5w 30 or 10w 30 Oil?
02-26-2008, 06:40 PM
#41
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From the other oil threads I have read, the GC actually stays at a heavier weight than all the other oils when it is at temperature.
There are 2 weights of Mobil 1 that aren't as "bad." I forgot which ones they are but I think the 5w-40 is one of them.
And to the people bringing up the "I have used X brand for eleventy billion years" you can't really compare that.
Mobil's oil formulation has changed for the worse since they were bought out. It is still NOT a BAD oil. It is simply not the best. You could probably throw any synthetic in these engines and get plenty of miles out of them, but some people just want the best.
The new Penzoil platinum has shown the best UOA besides GC. It is a lot easier to find as well. If you go to buy GC though just make sure you check every bottle!
The 0W-30 circulates better at startup, but it does not run thinner at temp. Do a search for Patman as a screen name. He has posted a LOT of oil info on this board.
I'm just pulling these from memory but I want to say at operating temperature(I forget the actual number) Mobil 5w-30 was at ~10w-11w and RP was ~11w-12w. Penzoil platinum was ~12w-13w and GC was 14.5w. Don't quote me on the exact numbers though.
EDIT: I just re-read the whole thread and GC is definitely a different formula than regular syntec. Patman has ran this oil 7000 miles between changes and the UOA shows it as having life left in it. It is a very durable oil.
To each his own. Use whatever the hell you want to use. I'm going to stick with GC because I can get it easily here for the same price and get more mileage out of it. It has also proven it is the best out there time and time again. $6.00 a quart isn't for everybody though.
There are 2 weights of Mobil 1 that aren't as "bad." I forgot which ones they are but I think the 5w-40 is one of them.
And to the people bringing up the "I have used X brand for eleventy billion years" you can't really compare that.
Mobil's oil formulation has changed for the worse since they were bought out. It is still NOT a BAD oil. It is simply not the best. You could probably throw any synthetic in these engines and get plenty of miles out of them, but some people just want the best.
The new Penzoil platinum has shown the best UOA besides GC. It is a lot easier to find as well. If you go to buy GC though just make sure you check every bottle!
The 0W-30 circulates better at startup, but it does not run thinner at temp. Do a search for Patman as a screen name. He has posted a LOT of oil info on this board.
I'm just pulling these from memory but I want to say at operating temperature(I forget the actual number) Mobil 5w-30 was at ~10w-11w and RP was ~11w-12w. Penzoil platinum was ~12w-13w and GC was 14.5w. Don't quote me on the exact numbers though.
EDIT: I just re-read the whole thread and GC is definitely a different formula than regular syntec. Patman has ran this oil 7000 miles between changes and the UOA shows it as having life left in it. It is a very durable oil.
To each his own. Use whatever the hell you want to use. I'm going to stick with GC because I can get it easily here for the same price and get more mileage out of it. It has also proven it is the best out there time and time again. $6.00 a quart isn't for everybody though.
Last edited by FMX05; 02-26-2008 at 06:47 PM.
02-26-2008, 09:29 PM
#42
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Actually I can compare that. M1 is an excellent proven winner. More people use it than any other synthetic in all weights. Oil related failures are almost unheard of, and that is with most any brand of synthetic. Some folks like to bash on it because they just use something else and read that "M1 is junk" somewhere and jump on the bandwagon. M1 formula changed, but ad-pack formulas are changed often as new tech is developed to make them better, NOT because they merged with exxon. Please stop osting misleading info just because you read it somewhere on the internet without anything to back it up.
02-26-2008, 09:41 PM
#43
ok heres a question for all the GC 0w-30 users. what is your oil pressure at 60 mph in OD gear? im at around 45-50 psi at 2000 RPM(stock 3.23's). i use 10-40 Mobil 1 synthetic high mileage. i need some evidence of something better than a review if im gonna change to German Castrol sorry!!!
Before I installed a cheap OPSU, I was chilling at about 50 PSI.
Just because it's rated at 0w30 does not mean it's thin. The 0 weight is thin when it's cold, and a very thick 30 weight when it's warm.
It jumped my oil pressure about 15 PSI across the board when I switched. Honestly, I buy it whenever I find it for <6$ a qt.
02-26-2008, 10:02 PM
#44
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Actually I can compare that. M1 is an excellent proven winner. More people use it than any other synthetic in all weights. Oil related failures are almost unheard of, and that is with most any brand of synthetic. Some folks like to bash on it because they just use something else and read that "M1 is junk" somewhere and jump on the bandwagon. M1 formula changed, but ad-pack formulas are changed often as new tech is developed to make them better, NOT because they merged with exxon. Please stop osting misleading info just because you read it somewhere on the internet without anything to back it up.
I didn't say all M1 is junk. I also said that 2 of the oils were still on the "good" list. I also said to each his own, that pretty much any synthetic would run fine. It is my personal opinionafter reading lots of material that GC and Penzoil Platinum are two of the best oils out there. Mobil 1 was used in every vehicle I have driven prior to this one, including in an LS2. Consider me a convert. I try not to shut my eyes when I see good results being published about a product.
02-26-2008, 10:22 PM
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I didn't say all M1 is junk. I also said that 2 of the oils were still on the "good" list. I also said to each his own, that pretty much any synthetic would run fine. It is my personal opinionafter reading lots of material that GC and Penzoil Platinum are two of the best oils out there. Mobil 1 was used in every vehicle I have driven prior to this one, including in an LS2. Consider me a convert. I try not to shut my eyes when I see good results being published about a product.
There has just been a lot of unfounded M1 bashing on here lately. And yes, any good synthetic would be just fine. These engines are very durable, and perform well with the proper maintenance.
02-27-2008, 09:33 AM
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Before I installed a cheap OPSU, I was chilling at about 50 PSI.
Just because it's rated at 0w30 does not mean it's thin. The 0 weight is thin when it's cold, and a very thick 30 weight when it's warm.
It jumped my oil pressure about 15 PSI across the board when I switched. Honestly, I buy it whenever I find it for <6$ a qt.
Just because it's rated at 0w30 does not mean it's thin. The 0 weight is thin when it's cold, and a very thick 30 weight when it's warm.
It jumped my oil pressure about 15 PSI across the board when I switched. Honestly, I buy it whenever I find it for <6$ a qt.
please
02-27-2008, 08:33 PM
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ok heres a question for all the GC 0w-30 users. what is your oil pressure at 60 mph in OD gear? im at around 45-50 psi at 2000 RPM(stock 3.23's). i use 10-40 Mobil 1 synthetic high mileage. i need some evidence of something better than a review if im gonna change to German Castrol sorry!!!
02-28-2008, 10:20 PM
#49
On The Tree
i remember readin alot of patmans stuff back in the day, if he is indeed the guy that religiously does oil analyses etc. one of my good friends is a moderator on this site, and (even though i was a ford only guy at the time) referred me here for a good read. that was years ago though.
but people who say oil is oil it dont matter.. i disagree.
while im in college i work as a small engine mechanic, lawn equipment. those guys put these engines through hell and then some.. maintenance is not in their vocabulary. we sell a special oil called optimol that actually doubles engine warranties (which in most cases is 2 years)
my point: upon tearing down any engine that has run optimol vs the same engine that has run a regular 30 wt, in ABUSED situations where the oil was really put to the test, the optimol runs off and leaves everything by far, far less damage if any, im a firm believer in the stuff after using it in service for 3 years now. we get 2000+ hours out of these engines even though they are poorly maintained.. and by that point the damn valves are running at .040 out of adjustment and are nwo banging instead of tapping, compression releases arent working etc. but the insides of the engine are clean, wear is even and uniform. all to be expected.
the store owner actually runs optimol in his vehicles, im not a real fan of the idea (id rather stick with what i know works, and also im a fan of synthetic oils) so i dont bother, and im not trying to recommend this stuff to you guys, im just throwin in some semi related experience, and validating my point that oil isnt oil isnt oil.
castrol bought whatever billy badass additive optimol runs (its actually a mineral based oil with a good additive package) and is supposedly running it in all their syntec line since 2006.
again i dont know this to be FACTUAL, i wasnt present at the refinery when this stuff was made. nor do i pretend to be a chemist and actually understand how all this crap truly works.
anyhow, just thought id throw that in there for fun, just somethin else to think about.
btw that picture of the oil sayin new jersey and all that.. i donno that its made in new jersey.. that said distributing, not manufacture.. just an observation, maybe in some twisting of the words it could be made to intend to mean the same thing.
btw i ran Mobil 1 in the first 7 engines i built (hot rods not ***** *** kohler/kawi/briggs lawn mower crap) and never had an oil related issue whatsoever.
my service manager is a motorcycle enthusiast, he has experimented with several oils and claims he can tell an obvious difference between oils, especially in shifting(since most bikes the gear box is lubed by the same stuff as your rotating assembly), but even in engine performance, and of course on those high-strung small engines where your legs are wrapped around them, heat.. based on that kind of testing and real world observation, i dont remember what his favorite is, but i know he feels that royal purple is total crap. i personally never had a problem with it, but i found his outlook on testing oil in that way to be interesting.. in that a bike would (in my mind at least) be more sensitive to changes in oil types, or at least more observable since you are more connected to your machine on a bike. again all based on opinions and hoo hah
if i could get my hands on german castrol, i'd run it.. but too many ppl around my area are on this site so they go buy it all!! lol.
theres a very well respected engine builder around here, had something to do with an indy 500 victory years ago or so the legend goes.. but hes a local hero. anyhow he runs straight 40 in everything he builds, maybe he builds them that way, maybe he has just found that to be a stable wt. oil for abuse. again just somethin else to chew on, that, in all the articles ive read on oil i havent been able to fully wrap my head around.
but people who say oil is oil it dont matter.. i disagree.
while im in college i work as a small engine mechanic, lawn equipment. those guys put these engines through hell and then some.. maintenance is not in their vocabulary. we sell a special oil called optimol that actually doubles engine warranties (which in most cases is 2 years)
my point: upon tearing down any engine that has run optimol vs the same engine that has run a regular 30 wt, in ABUSED situations where the oil was really put to the test, the optimol runs off and leaves everything by far, far less damage if any, im a firm believer in the stuff after using it in service for 3 years now. we get 2000+ hours out of these engines even though they are poorly maintained.. and by that point the damn valves are running at .040 out of adjustment and are nwo banging instead of tapping, compression releases arent working etc. but the insides of the engine are clean, wear is even and uniform. all to be expected.
the store owner actually runs optimol in his vehicles, im not a real fan of the idea (id rather stick with what i know works, and also im a fan of synthetic oils) so i dont bother, and im not trying to recommend this stuff to you guys, im just throwin in some semi related experience, and validating my point that oil isnt oil isnt oil.
castrol bought whatever billy badass additive optimol runs (its actually a mineral based oil with a good additive package) and is supposedly running it in all their syntec line since 2006.
again i dont know this to be FACTUAL, i wasnt present at the refinery when this stuff was made. nor do i pretend to be a chemist and actually understand how all this crap truly works.
anyhow, just thought id throw that in there for fun, just somethin else to think about.
btw that picture of the oil sayin new jersey and all that.. i donno that its made in new jersey.. that said distributing, not manufacture.. just an observation, maybe in some twisting of the words it could be made to intend to mean the same thing.
btw i ran Mobil 1 in the first 7 engines i built (hot rods not ***** *** kohler/kawi/briggs lawn mower crap) and never had an oil related issue whatsoever.
my service manager is a motorcycle enthusiast, he has experimented with several oils and claims he can tell an obvious difference between oils, especially in shifting(since most bikes the gear box is lubed by the same stuff as your rotating assembly), but even in engine performance, and of course on those high-strung small engines where your legs are wrapped around them, heat.. based on that kind of testing and real world observation, i dont remember what his favorite is, but i know he feels that royal purple is total crap. i personally never had a problem with it, but i found his outlook on testing oil in that way to be interesting.. in that a bike would (in my mind at least) be more sensitive to changes in oil types, or at least more observable since you are more connected to your machine on a bike. again all based on opinions and hoo hah
if i could get my hands on german castrol, i'd run it.. but too many ppl around my area are on this site so they go buy it all!! lol.
theres a very well respected engine builder around here, had something to do with an indy 500 victory years ago or so the legend goes.. but hes a local hero. anyhow he runs straight 40 in everything he builds, maybe he builds them that way, maybe he has just found that to be a stable wt. oil for abuse. again just somethin else to chew on, that, in all the articles ive read on oil i havent been able to fully wrap my head around.
Last edited by Coreyc619; 02-28-2008 at 10:32 PM.
02-29-2008, 08:41 AM
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thats the most ive read since collegei remember readin alot of patmans stuff back in the day, if he is indeed the guy that religiously does oil analyses etc. one of my good friends is a moderator on this site, and (even though i was a ford only guy at the time) referred me here for a good read. that was years ago though.
but people who say oil is oil it dont matter.. i disagree.
while im in college i work as a small engine mechanic, lawn equipment. those guys put these engines through hell and then some.. maintenance is not in their vocabulary. we sell a special oil called optimol that actually doubles engine warranties (which in most cases is 2 years)
my point: upon tearing down any engine that has run optimol vs the same engine that has run a regular 30 wt, in ABUSED situations where the oil was really put to the test, the optimol runs off and leaves everything by far, far less damage if any, im a firm believer in the stuff after using it in service for 3 years now. we get 2000+ hours out of these engines even though they are poorly maintained.. and by that point the damn valves are running at .040 out of adjustment and are nwo banging instead of tapping, compression releases arent working etc. but the insides of the engine are clean, wear is even and uniform. all to be expected.
the store owner actually runs optimol in his vehicles, im not a real fan of the idea (id rather stick with what i know works, and also im a fan of synthetic oils) so i dont bother, and im not trying to recommend this stuff to you guys, im just throwin in some semi related experience, and validating my point that oil isnt oil isnt oil.
castrol bought whatever billy badass additive optimol runs (its actually a mineral based oil with a good additive package) and is supposedly running it in all their syntec line since 2006.
again i dont know this to be FACTUAL, i wasnt present at the refinery when this stuff was made. nor do i pretend to be a chemist and actually understand how all this crap truly works.
anyhow, just thought id throw that in there for fun, just somethin else to think about.
btw that picture of the oil sayin new jersey and all that.. i donno that its made in new jersey.. that said distributing, not manufacture.. just an observation, maybe in some twisting of the words it could be made to intend to mean the same thing.
btw i ran Mobil 1 in the first 7 engines i built (hot rods not ***** *** kohler/kawi/briggs lawn mower crap) and never had an oil related issue whatsoever.
my service manager is a motorcycle enthusiast, he has experimented with several oils and claims he can tell an obvious difference between oils, especially in shifting(since most bikes the gear box is lubed by the same stuff as your rotating assembly), but even in engine performance, and of course on those high-strung small engines where your legs are wrapped around them, heat.. based on that kind of testing and real world observation, i dont remember what his favorite is, but i know he feels that royal purple is total crap. i personally never had a problem with it, but i found his outlook on testing oil in that way to be interesting.. in that a bike would (in my mind at least) be more sensitive to changes in oil types, or at least more observable since you are more connected to your machine on a bike. again all based on opinions and hoo hah
if i could get my hands on german castrol, i'd run it.. but too many ppl around my area are on this site so they go buy it all!! lol.
theres a very well respected engine builder around here, had something to do with an indy 500 victory years ago or so the legend goes.. but hes a local hero. anyhow he runs straight 40 in everything he builds, maybe he builds them that way, maybe he has just found that to be a stable wt. oil for abuse. again just somethin else to chew on, that, in all the articles ive read on oil i havent been able to fully wrap my head around.
but people who say oil is oil it dont matter.. i disagree.
while im in college i work as a small engine mechanic, lawn equipment. those guys put these engines through hell and then some.. maintenance is not in their vocabulary. we sell a special oil called optimol that actually doubles engine warranties (which in most cases is 2 years)
my point: upon tearing down any engine that has run optimol vs the same engine that has run a regular 30 wt, in ABUSED situations where the oil was really put to the test, the optimol runs off and leaves everything by far, far less damage if any, im a firm believer in the stuff after using it in service for 3 years now. we get 2000+ hours out of these engines even though they are poorly maintained.. and by that point the damn valves are running at .040 out of adjustment and are nwo banging instead of tapping, compression releases arent working etc. but the insides of the engine are clean, wear is even and uniform. all to be expected.
the store owner actually runs optimol in his vehicles, im not a real fan of the idea (id rather stick with what i know works, and also im a fan of synthetic oils) so i dont bother, and im not trying to recommend this stuff to you guys, im just throwin in some semi related experience, and validating my point that oil isnt oil isnt oil.
castrol bought whatever billy badass additive optimol runs (its actually a mineral based oil with a good additive package) and is supposedly running it in all their syntec line since 2006.
again i dont know this to be FACTUAL, i wasnt present at the refinery when this stuff was made. nor do i pretend to be a chemist and actually understand how all this crap truly works.
anyhow, just thought id throw that in there for fun, just somethin else to think about.
btw that picture of the oil sayin new jersey and all that.. i donno that its made in new jersey.. that said distributing, not manufacture.. just an observation, maybe in some twisting of the words it could be made to intend to mean the same thing.
btw i ran Mobil 1 in the first 7 engines i built (hot rods not ***** *** kohler/kawi/briggs lawn mower crap) and never had an oil related issue whatsoever.
my service manager is a motorcycle enthusiast, he has experimented with several oils and claims he can tell an obvious difference between oils, especially in shifting(since most bikes the gear box is lubed by the same stuff as your rotating assembly), but even in engine performance, and of course on those high-strung small engines where your legs are wrapped around them, heat.. based on that kind of testing and real world observation, i dont remember what his favorite is, but i know he feels that royal purple is total crap. i personally never had a problem with it, but i found his outlook on testing oil in that way to be interesting.. in that a bike would (in my mind at least) be more sensitive to changes in oil types, or at least more observable since you are more connected to your machine on a bike. again all based on opinions and hoo hah
if i could get my hands on german castrol, i'd run it.. but too many ppl around my area are on this site so they go buy it all!! lol.
theres a very well respected engine builder around here, had something to do with an indy 500 victory years ago or so the legend goes.. but hes a local hero. anyhow he runs straight 40 in everything he builds, maybe he builds them that way, maybe he has just found that to be a stable wt. oil for abuse. again just somethin else to chew on, that, in all the articles ive read on oil i havent been able to fully wrap my head around.
02-29-2008, 06:41 PM
#51
On The Tree
one of the products we sell is called opti 4, its an additive package. we actually phoned the optimol rep today and according to him the difference between regular syntec and the german stuff is the opti 4. could he be full of ****? of course! but i found that interesting and thought i would share.
these little air cooled engines deal with far more heat than our cars do, and are one hell of a test bed for oils IF you were to ask me.
btw i got it backwards on the thing about my boss and motorcycles, he actually liked royal purple, and mobil 1 was a bit of a letdown - especially as far as the gearbox was concerned. just sharing that too since i got it backwards first time.
i'll probably run synthetic rotella 5W 40 next oil change.. ive seen some tests where the high zinc content among other additives really made a hell of a difference in metal to metal contact points, i ran rotella in my street bikes and i loved it, it was night and day vs. conventional oil from MY opinion, my boss's too.. then again many of you could argue we jumped on each others band wagon and it was all in our heads.. maybe so.
i did the factory 5W 30 this first time, in spite of my buddy the moderator advising to me to run a 40 wt. but i had read also that the further the disparity between ratings the less stable an oil was under heat. who knows (well actually, im sure somebody does) but theres a ton of debate about it.
really in a street car, any decent quality oil should do fine under regular service intervals, thats the trick is the maintenance. many of us who are so **** about our cars end up putting all these special details into our cars and then selling them 40K miles later anyway lol. still an interesting debate. ok im done now that i cleared myself up some
these little air cooled engines deal with far more heat than our cars do, and are one hell of a test bed for oils IF you were to ask me.
btw i got it backwards on the thing about my boss and motorcycles, he actually liked royal purple, and mobil 1 was a bit of a letdown - especially as far as the gearbox was concerned. just sharing that too since i got it backwards first time.
i'll probably run synthetic rotella 5W 40 next oil change.. ive seen some tests where the high zinc content among other additives really made a hell of a difference in metal to metal contact points, i ran rotella in my street bikes and i loved it, it was night and day vs. conventional oil from MY opinion, my boss's too.. then again many of you could argue we jumped on each others band wagon and it was all in our heads.. maybe so.
i did the factory 5W 30 this first time, in spite of my buddy the moderator advising to me to run a 40 wt. but i had read also that the further the disparity between ratings the less stable an oil was under heat. who knows (well actually, im sure somebody does) but theres a ton of debate about it.
really in a street car, any decent quality oil should do fine under regular service intervals, thats the trick is the maintenance. many of us who are so **** about our cars end up putting all these special details into our cars and then selling them 40K miles later anyway lol. still an interesting debate. ok im done now that i cleared myself up some
03-02-2008, 11:53 AM
#52
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i always looked down on pennzoil products because around here they are dirt cheap, but this thread has been both biased and informative, thats why i dont speak unless it's factual. I ran Mobil 1 synthetic 10w 30 in my LT1 for the entire 15,000 miles I had it, and it the oil pressure and temp were always very stable.
I also had a 96 camaro tampon. It was ran on conventional oil until I bought it. I also had it for 15,000 miles and I switched from Valvoline conventional (which it was ran on) to Mobil 1 10w 30, and again -- constant oil pressure and temperatures. Never huge deviations, even under harsh driving.
Now I'm not someone who has been tearing engines down and such, but im just stating what i've experienced. Mobil 1 has always worked for me, but I'm going to read more into it and see if Pennzoil is a better choice for my new LS1
I also had a 96 camaro tampon. It was ran on conventional oil until I bought it. I also had it for 15,000 miles and I switched from Valvoline conventional (which it was ran on) to Mobil 1 10w 30, and again -- constant oil pressure and temperatures. Never huge deviations, even under harsh driving.
Now I'm not someone who has been tearing engines down and such, but im just stating what i've experienced. Mobil 1 has always worked for me, but I'm going to read more into it and see if Pennzoil is a better choice for my new LS1
03-02-2008, 02:15 PM
#54
I would also disagree with those that say the M1 is a bad oil. I just think the GC is a better oil for around the same price. Look at the analysis results in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/280043-newest-feb-22-oil-analysis-my-c5-using-german-castrol.html
It is heavier than other 30 weights at operating temp as seen by it's cst rating at 100c. Not only that, it retains it's viscosity after 1000s of miles. Other "synthetics" have been known to show viscosity breakdown, including some that are well advertized and/or very $$$.
That would be the 5w-40 that is currently being sold as "Turbo Diesel". It used to be sold as "Truck & SUV". I used to run it back then, but went over to GC when it became available in my area. It is actually Delvac 1, a well respected HD diesel oil. I would have no problem using it again if GC ever becomes unavailable.
That would be the 5w-40 that is currently being sold as "Turbo Diesel". It used to be sold as "Truck & SUV". I used to run it back then, but went over to GC when it became available in my area. It is actually Delvac 1, a well respected HD diesel oil. I would have no problem using it again if GC ever becomes unavailable.
03-02-2008, 03:05 PM
#55
Because they pay/discount GM to advertise for them?
Does no one see that? Mobil 1 uses that for marketing. It does NOT make it a good product. Just means there is MONEY there.
I'm not saying Mobil 1 is a bad product, I'm merely stating that advertisements don't mean ****.
Do you think Tiger woods enjoys his Buicks?
They're certainly great cars, but I highly doubt he daily drives an Enclave.
Does no one see that? Mobil 1 uses that for marketing. It does NOT make it a good product. Just means there is MONEY there.
I'm not saying Mobil 1 is a bad product, I'm merely stating that advertisements don't mean ****.
Do you think Tiger woods enjoys his Buicks?
They're certainly great cars, but I highly doubt he daily drives an Enclave.
03-02-2008, 03:54 PM
#56
Again I think that people on this site over analayze everything. As long as your running synthetic I don't think that there is going to be any noticeable diffrence from brand to brand. It comes down to product loyalty. Me I'm cheap so I run NAPA synthetic. Which I was told is made by Valvoline. Just my 2 cents.
03-02-2008, 03:58 PM
#57
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Because they pay/discount GM to advertise for them?
Does no one see that? Mobil 1 uses that for marketing. It does NOT make it a good product. Just means there is MONEY there.
I'm not saying Mobil 1 is a bad product, I'm merely stating that advertisements don't mean ****.
Do you think Tiger woods enjoys his Buicks?
They're certainly great cars, but I highly doubt he daily drives an Enclave.
Does no one see that? Mobil 1 uses that for marketing. It does NOT make it a good product. Just means there is MONEY there.
I'm not saying Mobil 1 is a bad product, I'm merely stating that advertisements don't mean ****.
Do you think Tiger woods enjoys his Buicks?
They're certainly great cars, but I highly doubt he daily drives an Enclave.
Thats true with almost anything. Mobil 1 comes stock in every Corvette and thats GM's bread/Butter and flagship car so its good enough for me.
03-02-2008, 04:10 PM
#58
Since we are mostly talking GC, what viscosity is the norm? 5w30?? I've been running mobil 1 5w30 so far in my T/Aand its ok but I think there is some room for improvement and definetly want to give GC a try. Especially after hearing all this great news about it.
03-02-2008, 04:26 PM
#59
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Honestly when it comes to oil you cant go too wrong, they all have to pass federal standards, and when was the last time an LS-1 came apart due to the oil? Change it every 3k and filter every 6k and get whichever oil you like.