BadAssBowties

iTrader: (1)

It's coming. Plans are to be at the fair grounds this weekend with it. If I drive it to town before the weekend and then come back again it should have enough miles to open it up.

mconway68w

iTrader: (2)

What's going on at the fair grounds?

BadAssBowties

iTrader: (1)

Car show

Hilton

iTrader: (36)

Today driving Dorothy the voltage gauge went all the way down. Something is wrong. Either the battery is bad, the alternator is bad, or I've got a bad ground somewhere.
The battery is a red top, which I've killed 2 of already; so it may be time for another "non-red top" battery. The alternator was rebuilt a few years ago to 140 amp from the stock 107 amp. I've got a 25% underdrive crank pulley, but I'm also overdriving the alternator with a smaller pulley.

Thoughts?

Also, I remember a while back we had an "F-Body friendly" hookup who owned a shop where they set up suspensions, did alignments, were able to balance Prostars, etc.
I can't remember who it is.

Swerve7rpm2000

iTrader: (9)

Did you bother to check voltage anywhere? when the car is running check for 14 volts off the alternator....If not 14 volts make sure your grounds are ok and also check harness for voltage going to the alternator which tells it to come on you should have atleast 12 volts to the plug.... If all those check out fine get a new battery

SIC LSX

iTrader: (10)

If u have a aftermarket system and added some speakers/amp check for some grounded hot wires on the power wires to amp and remote wire. I've seen that do it b4.

Hilton

iTrader: (36)

The battery was so low I was concerned I wouldn't make it home. None of the power **** worked. All the dash lights were on, couldn't roll up the windows, etc. I put it on the charger when I got home. The first three times it wouldn't charge and came back with an error code. It's currently charging, but I keep checking on it to make sure it doesn't need to be reset. This doesn't necessarily mean that the Red Top is bad. They sometimes can be hard to recharge once they get this low.

The "jump box" has an alternator tester on it. I'll use that to see what I can find out.

I took the sub out and put wire nuts on the power and remote wires before going to the track last time.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

Anybody goin to the ls fest? I am gonna reserve a hotel room here in a week or so

Swerve7rpm2000

iTrader: (9)

Where is the LS fest? And when is it?

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

Bowling Green Ky, sept 9-11

BadAssBowties

iTrader: (1)

Got the s10 together and run it through the gears. How do yall think it went?

Swerve7rpm2000

iTrader: (9)

Blew out another seal!

BadAssBowties

iTrader: (1)

Winner winner chicken ****** dinner. Im done with it. If i pull this trans out again it will not be going back in. If my builder wants to pull it out and take it all the way down the he is more than welcome to come pick it up. Needless to say the truck wont be on the road for our anniversary so it may be awhile before i do anything with it.

Anyone that knows me should know its time to just back off the truck. Im short tempered and all about parting some **** out. The wife wants me to keep it so when i feel like messing with it or have the money ill get back on it. Other than that im done wrenching on it for awhile.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My thoughts are for one you don't need an overdrive alt pulley to offset your underdrive pulley because your idle is raised. You are spinning the alt at idle what a stock car would. Overdrive alt pulleys are IMO for stock idle cars and more so for autos because our idle stock is set to 550 in-gear.

As far as the main issue, I would get the battery charged, or use a known good battery, and see what running voltage is to verify the alt is charging properly. Next thing I would verify connections are good.

Hilton

iTrader: (36)

I've got the stock alternator pulley and it's super easy to swap on. I'll do that. The only reason I put on the overdrive pulley is that at night while I'm at a red light my lights would dim until I revved it up a little. The overdrive pulley solved that.

The battery seems to have charged. The charger seems to think so at least *(FUL) on the charger.

I pulled off the muffler this morning. A 4" pipe, no muffler; dumped, is loud. MUCH louder than through that Spintech that came on it.

Stay tuned for what comes next!
*(non turbo related. Don't get too excited)

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I would read sitting voltage, look for 12.4-12.8 and running voltage, look for low 13s up to 14.0. If it goes much over 14.0 you have a condition where the alt feels like the battery is discharged. That indicates a weak battery. If its charging in the mid 13s then the alt is pretty content with the way the battery is accepting the charge. These figures are with no load other then with the engine running.

Also, as alternators are "beefed up" they tend to loose some idle amperage. Alternators that put out more at speed typically put out less then stock at idle. Heat decreases alternator output significantly as well.

Hilton

iTrader: (36)

Does anybody want a foozball table? I've got one that's in my way.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

Look what I got today







The hood is functional, and I already have an SSRA on the car so I'm debating on selling the SSRA, leaving the block off on under the lid which will block of the hood, or running both. I know it won't matter either way, but I just see it pointless in having two ram air's. It's not gonna help anything.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

Thanks Todd!! Good thing we have a pretty good photographer in the group Hopefully my next one will be a full frontal with a lil air under the fronts

mconway68w

iTrader: (2)

Who do you guys suggest for a full paint job. I want to smooth out the dings and maybe shave the antenna but don't want to break the bank.