Yes your temps will go down with one. Temps out side have a lot to do with it too! My NA car if its 115 degs my IAT's will be 115 going down the road but when i stop they will go up due to the heat under the hood building up. You can also add methanol for extra safety. will only spray when u get in boost. If it were me i would have intercooler and meth on it!

a lot of good info
http://ststurbo.com/f_a_q_#14


they want like 1k for there bolt on intercooler kit

 

the turbo it self is cooler so intercooler isnt needed on low boost

 

Chris has an air to air intercooler on the car already. Using the D1SC, he really doesn't need to spray methanol at this boost level....and with a perfect tune, he won't need it at the future power levels either.

Matt's temps were about the same as Chris' it's just the stupid weather outside that's killing you all right now.

 

Hey Todd I removed the pcm and checked the wires and they seemed to be in tact. Should I just run my own ground off the harness and see if that solves the problem ?

 

Ivory,

You need to hook up a multimeter to one pin on the connector that connects to the O2. Then connect to the pin that it goes to at the connector that goes to the computer. Then do the next pin, and so on. You are looking for an Open state. Then, check each one to ground and look for a short. That will tell you if the harness is bad or good. Doing a visual check isn't thorough unless you remove all the plastic wrap and tape and check every inch of each wire.
However, you still haven't answered, check and see if the sensor is plugged into the front O2 Connector in the harness. Alot of people mess up and plug it into one of the rears by accident. (Even exhaust and tranny shops screw it up).

 

Ivory,
I just had an O2 sensor issue as one of mine wasn't switching like it should be. They were new so I knew that wasn't the problem. I unhooked the sensor from the harness and checked for proper power and ground with a multimeter, after checking fuses. Both were good. Then I moved on to the two O2 signal wires to the PCM. You will have a high and low signal wire. I forget off the top of my head which pins they are in the PCM, but you can search for it (I'm on my phone). Cut some of the insulation back on those wires at the PCM and test continuity between that and the end of the harness. Both of my signal wires were damaged somewhere in the harness, so I cut and soldered in new wires. There was absolutely no way to trace it down with the engine in the car. Do that and let us know. Boom, works like it should and now I can tune in CLSD.

 

Anyone have a stock tb floating around there house? I need the iac o-ring ASAP, or can I just make a gasket for it?

 

Go to NAPA and see if you can find an O-ring that fits. They typically carry quite a few.

 

Yeah, but what you are saying is that if iat's are 350* cooler, then a front mount iat's can be up to 500* or more, it sounds steep.

 

Cody, too bad we live so far apart or else I'd give you an o-ring. I have both metric and sae at the house.

 

how important would you say jet hot coating is???

is it worth $250 or whatever the cost is???

 

We have o-rings but their to fat, it trys to cut it on install.

 

It's highly debated, but honestly IMO, it's pointless. They say that it will never rust, but also say to get under there and polish it. If you don't polish (to me that means clean it) it, it will rust as if it wasn't there.

Do it right the first time and get some stainless headers, it costs more up front, but is worth it many times over in the long run.

However, if you already have mild steel headers that are paid for, it's really up to you, and if you don't mind polishing them every now and then, it should last.

 

IATs with intercooler are said to be 20-30* over ambient. So 130ish intercooled in this weather front or rear mount. My kit claims about 50* over on 5-6lbs w/o IC. We showed a max of around 150* on mine during tuning which is right on par with what the kit claims. I'm looking forward to lower ambient temps. Come on fall!!!

 

I agree with Johnny. I think if you have a set of older headers it would be cheaper to do this and "refresh" them especially painted ones. As far as benefits, they claim underhood temps are lowered, and they don't rust, blah blah, but to me they all perform the same, it mainly boils down to preference and looks. I also wanna say I read something somewhere about they increase the velocity and exhaust temps which was actually hurting power, but cant remember where I read it to back it up.

 

Stainless is the way to go......

 

Agreed. Jet Hots have a life time warranty on the coating, but they do rust, then you go "is it worth me removing them to get them recoated?" The answer I always come up with is NO. They are pretty when new, and keep from rusting way longer than uncoated, but stainless won't rust and performs great. If you can afford it, spend the money right the first time and go stainless.

 

I cant seem to get the 2 main fuel system sponsors on this site to sell me a fuel system. Never seen anyone that does not want to make a sale before. Anybody know where else I can look?

 

Thunder Racing carries Racetronix fuel systems.

 

Yeah but what I want to buy isnt some off the shelf package. I already have most of it. I just need someone to fill in the blanks so to speak. I have never built anything like this. I dont even know anyone with anything like this. I am sure I could build it, but its a lot easier for someone to put it in a box and mail it to me. I dont wanna be ordering parts from summit for the next 2 months buying stuff I forgot to get the first time