Safest nitrous setup?
Safest nitrous setup? Looking into getting nitrous next year. I plan to get bigger injectors anyways so that's taken care of because of cam but what else do I need and what $$ is the average setup. I'm not sure whether to do wet or dry because I know NOTHING about forced induction or nitrous work in general. I was going to run a 100shot but im not sure how to go about doing so. I'm getting a 3guage pod setup with A/f wideband, fuel pressure, and not sure what else yet unless I stick with 2. Should I upgrade the fuel pump or see what it's running at before I mess with it? Also I was going to get 4.10 gears, is it better to stick with my 3.42s or go with the 4.10s if I plan to have spray with me. Tell me everything I should know or be aware of and what the differences are in price and safety between the kits out they're. Thanks
If you run a dry shot with redundant noid, or a safety noid, the stuck open or leaking seal issue is resolved, so no going lean and burning your motor up. This is really the only area we can get into trouble with the dry and a properly set-up system. meaning with all the safety goodies installed. prob one of the biggest reasons we have intakes that blow apart. the wet hits, you have this issue and you have the fuel noid to go out on top. You really never hear of a injector going out, no where near as the count on fuel noids going south. another area, the dry has better distribution from the get go and thus better a/f ratio per hole, compared to the gasoline that is prone to drop out. Our intakes were designed for dry flow, and the GM engineers did wonders with our computers, so why not utilize this high tech. run a NANO kit on top of this, and a killer street/strip combo is at hand. Now if you like wet better, that's OK, just the facts prove it has a few more problems that could potentially pop up. 
Robert
Robert
11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 499
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From: saint louis Missouri
totally agree with Robert. I would definitely go dry after mass air. Upgrade injectors fuel pump and add hot wire kit. Stick with 342 assuming you have a 10 bolt. the 410s will more likely be the cause of your rear end blowing up. the gears for 410 in a 10 bolt are just way to small and tend to break. I currently have 2 guages in my car wide band andnitrous pressure. I run a HSW dry nozzle set up id look into that. (When buying parts new)dont be surprised that all said and done with all the accessories, controller,nitrous kit, gauges, Fuel pump, Hot wire kit, and injectors that you dont spend about 1500 plus.
HSW Kit with the interface. Hands down. Thats the kit I am getting. Get all the supporting mods to make it safe. Thats what I am doing. I have been researching this for about a year and finally decided to go this route.
I am pulling my 78mm Harris speed wet/dry plate as well as their interface early next week. If anyone is interested shoot me a pm. I will sell it with the T/B bolts and all jets for the dry system.
The dry/interface works great and is easy to adjust. The only reason I am getting rid of it is I am going bigger, and harris speed sells the better plate in kit form only, unless they have changed this in the last couple of months. I bought this as a kit so it is the better plate.
The dry/interface works great and is easy to adjust. The only reason I am getting rid of it is I am going bigger, and harris speed sells the better plate in kit form only, unless they have changed this in the last couple of months. I bought this as a kit so it is the better plate.
I am pulling my 78mm Harris speed wet/dry plate as well as their interface early next week. If anyone is interested shoot me a pm. I will sell it with the T/B bolts and all jets for the dry system.
The dry/interface works great and is easy to adjust. The only reason I am getting rid of it is I am going bigger, and harris speed sells the better plate in kit form only, unless they have changed this in the last couple of months. I bought this as a kit so it is the better plate.
The dry/interface works great and is easy to adjust. The only reason I am getting rid of it is I am going bigger, and harris speed sells the better plate in kit form only, unless they have changed this in the last couple of months. I bought this as a kit so it is the better plate.
Robert
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Verdad Gallardo That's old school and can be unreliable. Now we take control of the injectors thru the PCM via the Interface for fueling and timing pull and only effects the spray tune. Much has changed in the last year or so. street/strip DP Dry is now a great option.
Robert
Robert
Robert I am going to the big boy selenoids and the 92mm plate with a stand alone system. When I get my direct port- later on I will be using the plate as a second stage- most likely dry if I can get it worked out.
I will sell the interface for 125+ shipping and the 78mm plate for 125+ shipping. If anyone is interested.
I will sell the interface for 125+ shipping and the 78mm plate for 125+ shipping. If anyone is interested.
I wouls suggest using the dry plate and Interface as stage 1, to pull timing. You can set-up a custom timing pull for additional timing to be added (pulled) when the second stge wet DP comes on. Something to think about anyway. i love the ability to have multipe tcustom timing curves saved and a flip of a switch goes to different pull combo. Not to mention, the interface can also be used to fine tune your wet DP, much easier/cheaper/quicker than changing your jets. You can add or subtract fuel in 5hp increments. A great tuning tool to have wet DP and/or dry.
Robert
Robert
