Harlan switch not working
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TECH Junkie
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From: Winter Garden, Florida
I've got my window switch wired to the ground side of the FPSS. I've programmed it for 4 cylinder mode and set the on/off. When testing it, I get a brief hit, then nothing. After that it won't work at all. If I bypass it, everything works fine. Are you supposed to set it to coil per plug after you program it????
Anybody else have a similiar problem?
Anybody else have a similiar problem?
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TECH Junkie
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From: Winter Garden, Florida
The FPSS is run from the relay (86 pin). Then I ran the white window switch lead to the ground side of the FPSS. Now I thought when I reached my lower rpm program it would ground the circuit and voila. But unfortunately... still scratching my head.
TTT I need help hooking this thing up as well. So the white wire is suposed to go to a ground. So I guess you could use the WOT switch ground as well? Mabye you should try hooking it up there next, NEXT
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From: Winter Garden, Florida
Originally Posted by 99TranTrany
TTT I need help hooking this thing up as well. So the white wire is suposed to go to a ground. So I guess you could use the WOT switch ground as well? Mabye you should try hooking it up there next, NEXT 

Where is it suposed to tie into the relay? It says in the instrutions not to directly connect the wire to the solinoinds or extrnal lights, only to wire it to a relay, if you did so it might fry the window switch. So should we connect it as the ground for the relay? It is suposed to supply a 12V ground durring the window of opperation? I dunno what do you think?
,Justin
,Justin
there should only be 1 ground location that you can install it. You want it to end the low current control loop, should be similar to this:
Arm +12 -------relay------wot-------fpss------ window(ground).
provided the WOT, and FPSS are switched on the circuit is just waiting for the window switch to provide the ground.
(note, all the switches and relay, can be in any order as long as you have a +12 for the arm, and the window switch providing the ground)
Is this similar to how you have it wired, i thought it was, but the comment "I am considering the WOT if I can't get any other help."
Ryan.
Arm +12 -------relay------wot-------fpss------ window(ground).
provided the WOT, and FPSS are switched on the circuit is just waiting for the window switch to provide the ground.
(note, all the switches and relay, can be in any order as long as you have a +12 for the arm, and the window switch providing the ground)
Is this similar to how you have it wired, i thought it was, but the comment "I am considering the WOT if I can't get any other help."
Ryan.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Winter Garden, Florida
Originally Posted by slow
there should only be 1 ground location that you can install it. You want it to end the low current control loop, should be similar to this:
Arm +12 -------relay------wot-------fpss------ window(ground).
provided the WOT, and FPSS are switched on the circuit is just waiting for the window switch to provide the ground.
(note, all the switches and relay, can be in any order as long as you have a +12 for the arm, and the window switch providing the ground)
Is this similar to how you have it wired, i thought it was, but the comment "I am considering the WOT if I can't get any other help."
Ryan.
Arm +12 -------relay------wot-------fpss------ window(ground).
provided the WOT, and FPSS are switched on the circuit is just waiting for the window switch to provide the ground.
(note, all the switches and relay, can be in any order as long as you have a +12 for the arm, and the window switch providing the ground)
Is this similar to how you have it wired, i thought it was, but the comment "I am considering the WOT if I can't get any other help."
Ryan.
I said I'm considering changing the wiring to the WOT side just out of hope that there's nothing wrong with my window switch. Can't I hope for some old fashion fued between components and by separating them all will be well again
there is no ground side of the wot or the fpss, they are just 2 contact switches.
you need +12 to one side of the relay, and ground to the other.
if the harlan will provide a ground, it does not matter where the other switches are. Verify that it does provide a ground, by removing the other switches temporaily, and see if the relay will click when you give it gas. (if you don't have a multimeter.)
of course disconnect the output, so no n20/fuel goes into your motor.
Ryan
you need +12 to one side of the relay, and ground to the other.
if the harlan will provide a ground, it does not matter where the other switches are. Verify that it does provide a ground, by removing the other switches temporaily, and see if the relay will click when you give it gas. (if you don't have a multimeter.)
of course disconnect the output, so no n20/fuel goes into your motor.
Ryan



