Wet or dry...cant decide
06-02-2010, 07:13 PM
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Wet or dry...cant decide 
SOME SAY WET IS BETTER AND SAFER....SOME SAY DRY......DRY SEEMS EASYER TO INSTALL AND CHEEPER....I DONT HAVE A CLUE....GOT THE $$ FOR A KIT BUT CANT DECIDE.....THINKING OF GOING W/A NOS OUTLET HALO KIT(DRY) ONLY WANTING TO SPRAY ABOUT A 100 SHOT...........HELP PLEASE............................
...:ba ng:
06-02-2010, 07:27 PM
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dry is good if all your gonna do is 100 shot. thing i like about the dry is that you don't have to worry about any puddling going on in the intake, and less likely to have backfire. Neither is hard to install. But once you get the nitrous in your blood, its hard to stop, and a wet kit is better imo if your gonna squeeze over 175 shot. But I have heard of people doing 200-300 hp dry. Would also rec bigger injectors on a dry kit. Thats another reason why people like wet, but if your running whats in your sig you prole have bigger injectors.
06-02-2010, 07:54 PM
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I'm kind of in the same boat. Talk to Nitro Dave, we had several pms back and forth and he helped clear the air. Before I was dead set on dry and now I am really starting to see the merrits of wet. IMO you can't go wrong either way if you take your time do your reasearch and go with what works best for YOUR goals, oh yeah and don't forget the saftey stuff.
06-02-2010, 08:45 PM
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i think alot of what you need to think about is how often are you going to run this setup, i mean RUN it. Are you a weekend racer at the track or do you want the bottle to protect you from the dark lords called *** whoopins. I love the juice and also am a fan of the wet kit. I run the kit on both my cars as a backup from the dark lords. But even when i was only running it I still like the wet. Dont forget you are agoing to have to tune this for a 100 shot. But one way WET you are looking at just takin out a few degres of timming. everything else is as it was. When you get into a dry, you must tune the car as if it was shooting all the time. you will run a little rich when not needed. Yes there are million ways around this. They all include $$$$$$. Just my two cents.
06-02-2010, 09:26 PM
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sounds like a wet spray to me. And yes wet is more dangerous than dry if you have thought that, Three things will make it not. One pull out the timming corectly, most backfires are cause someone thought 4 insted of 5 degrees will work, and two get a EGT gauge, even thow the back fire is usualy always cause by plug GLOWING, you will get your heads up with gauge. That brings me to Three, colder plug. The number one killer of a wet or dry kit. If done right, You will never go back my friend, you will never go back. "As i walk away looking over my sholder"
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06-02-2010, 10:35 PM
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exhaust gas temp gauge. Gives you an idea how hot the cylinders are getting, = detonation. If you know you EGT then you can tell when to get out of it before you see inside of it. As I take a drink of my tea.
06-02-2010, 11:05 PM
#10
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sounds like a wet spray to me. And yes wet is more dangerous than dry if you have thought that, Three things will make it not. One pull out the timming corectly, most backfires are cause someone thought 4 insted of 5 degrees will work, and two get a EGT gauge, even thow the back fire is usualy always cause by plug GLOWING, you will get your heads up with gauge. That brings me . Three, colder plug. The number one killer of a wet or dry kit. If done right, You will never go back my friend, you will never go back. "As i walk away looking over my sholder"
Just go with wet man its usually a smoother shot and its better to tune.
06-02-2010, 11:11 PM
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I agree with the above post. Wet is safer than dry. Id much rather know the fuel is there rather than hope my computer can compensate the extra needed fuel. Im not saying dry is bad, i just choose wet over dry. It helps me sleep at night.
06-02-2010, 11:36 PM
#12
wow oh wow. Neither is "safer" it is just two different ways of running nitrous, one uses injectors to deliver fuel and one uses a solenoid. They will both backfire if something was setup wrong or a solenoid goes bad.
You can run as much hp through a dry system as a wet system and neither works better or produces more hp based on the kit solely. They will make power based on the user and the way they go about it.
I like wet on the stock pcms as it is just easier to tune fuel wise IMO, but dry can work perfectly fine. Once you go to an aftermarket pcm such as FAST, BS3 etc dry is the only way to go. So much simpler.
read this for more info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...ry-vs-wet.html
You can run as much hp through a dry system as a wet system and neither works better or produces more hp based on the kit solely. They will make power based on the user and the way they go about it.
I like wet on the stock pcms as it is just easier to tune fuel wise IMO, but dry can work perfectly fine. Once you go to an aftermarket pcm such as FAST, BS3 etc dry is the only way to go. So much simpler.
read this for more info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...ry-vs-wet.html
06-03-2010, 12:14 AM
#14
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OK well for the wet vs dry thing if you read the sticky's like everyone should before you even post on this site. It says coming from dlove:
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
06-03-2010, 10:35 AM
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You rely on the MAF to register additional airflow every single time you hit the gas pedal...how would it suddenly not pick up the added airflow from nitrous after its been properly setup?
06-03-2010, 10:48 AM
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neither one is better than the other, but one or the other could be better suited for your application. I do not push wet or dry, I just suggest what is going to work best for you. There are advantages and disadvantages of both.
Also, as far as the MAF registering it, you don't even need to worry about that if you get the interface controller with the dry kit. It does all the work for you and also allows you to pull timing. It really evened the playing field as far as wet vs. dry.
Also, as far as the MAF registering it, you don't even need to worry about that if you get the interface controller with the dry kit. It does all the work for you and also allows you to pull timing. It really evened the playing field as far as wet vs. dry.
I have always been a fan of wet.
06-03-2010, 11:39 AM
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OK well for the wet vs dry thing if you read the sticky's like everyone should before you even post on this site. It says coming from dlove:
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
i was about to post that
