26 degrees, still pull timing?
26 degrees, still pull timing? If I run a cam that only needs 26 degrees at WOT, is it still necessary to pull timing for a 100 shot. What about a 150. I thought the reason for pulling timing on most HC cars was that most are bumped to about 28 and then you pull timing to get it back to stock 26.
Every car is different. Don't assume that just because one person doesn't pull timing that you don't have to. For example my H/C/I car on EPS dyno with a 100 shot at 28 degrees and 93 octane pump ran fine and I did not need to pull timing, according to Geoff. The next person might have to pull timing just because their setup is different.
so if my plugs have little specs of black on the porcelain, I guess I should have pulled timing. I've run the car on the street with hptuners hooked up and he said that there was no knock on the 100 shot. Shouldn't the computer pick up detonation? I don't know how reliable my plugs are because. I sprayed about 20 times before pulling them. Also, a couple of times my car sprayed the c16 only, and a/f went to 9.3.
so if my plugs have little specs of black on the porcelain, I guess I should have pulled timing. I've run the car on the street with hptuners hooked up and he said that there was no knock on the 100 shot. Shouldn't the computer pick up detonation? I don't know how reliable my plugs are because. I sprayed about 20 times before pulling them. Also, a couple of times my car sprayed the c16 only, and a/f went to 9.3.
It helped me alot, thanks Chris
Man oh man. Black specs are usually fuel deposits, which would mean it was overly rich based on the fuel you were using. Now detonaton will show up way before the comp. Picks it up and will be metallic specs on the porceilin most of the time. All this is base off a new plug that has been Sprayed once then shut off and pulled.
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so if my plugs have little specs of black on the porcelain, I guess I should have pulled timing. I've run the car on the street with hptuners hooked up and he said that there was no knock on the 100 shot. Shouldn't the computer pick up detonation? I don't know how reliable my plugs are because. I sprayed about 20 times before pulling them. Also, a couple of times my car sprayed the c16 only, and a/f went to 9.3.
Nitrous need less timing, there is no need to advance it, you only risk your motor.
Install new plugs, keep AFR to high 11's, 9.3 is too much even for a nitrous car.
Read the plugs immediately after the nitrous run. If you idle or drive the car home the plug-reading isn't reliable, the marks you need to find are erased by normal driving.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
I HIGHLY reccomend you do not spray that car again without going over things first.
9.3 is Bill gates rich.
Timing pulled from nitrous is based on what Your car makes max power NA with. If it is 10 15 26 or 50, all that matters is your car. I would love to help you get a handle on this so you dont hurt your motor.
I dont mean to be rude in anyway so please dont take it as such but I would get some help on this.
9.3 is Bill gates rich.
Timing pulled from nitrous is based on what Your car makes max power NA with. If it is 10 15 26 or 50, all that matters is your car. I would love to help you get a handle on this so you dont hurt your motor.
I dont mean to be rude in anyway so please dont take it as such but I would get some help on this.
This is what it looked like when I paid for my nitrous tune. The tuner told me its ok and that i couldn't get better without throwing off my NA tune by removing more fuel at WOT. Also, there was no mention about timing which I would have easily paid for given I paid about 3 grand in nitrous accessories.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
That thing was insanely rich on the dyno.
I wouldnt have made a pass if that was hopw the tune up looked. Was a plug ever pulled on the dyno?
Who tuned it? Which nitrous system?
I wouldnt have made a pass if that was hopw the tune up looked. Was a plug ever pulled on the dyno?
Who tuned it? Which nitrous system?
I don't know why they was running his car like that on the dyno because the guys at Spectacle are some knowledgeable guys.
My H/C/I car is running a 11.5:1 CR and on motor im running 28 degrees of timing and on the spray im running 23 degrees and the knock sensors never show a single sign of knock. Thats with pump gas. Im gonna get home from Afghanistan and get it on the dyno and see how much further I can go before it starts knocking.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
Im aware. I Was asking for a more specific answer. Im curious why a customer car left like that, and if the customer was aware of what was going on.
My H/C/I car is running a 11.5:1 CR and on motor im running 28 degrees of timing and on the spray im running 23 degrees and the knock sensors never show a single sign of knock. Thats with pump gas. Im gonna get home from Afghanistan and get it on the dyno and see how much further I can go before it starts knocking.
I talked with the tuner and I asked him why the car was that rich. He said rich is fine. It's lean that gets you into trouble. He said that If he were to lean it out, then the initial lean spike would blow the motor. I even told him ok because you know I'm going to post it in the forums. I hope Brian chimes in...I'm getting concerned. I have C16 in a standalone. I have all the safety equipment thatt you can buy. Also, Brian knows that I'll buy whats needed. I just don't like wasting money. I tried to ask in a thread before I took the car for the tune, "What to expect in a nitrous tune?" I don't know why he let me walk away if its not right because I paid him what he asked and have paid him for several other issues. Chime in people because I'm getting pissed especially since I pulled my plugs and saw oil on one of them.
