wet or dry
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
From: ardmore ok
a wet is alway's better to me. i have seen way to many people ruin there engines on the dry kits. you are relying on the maf to make sure there is enough gas to nitrious mixture. dry kits are cheaper but more costly to the engine. but in the other hand i have seen the wet kits do the same thing, all it takes is to loose the gas side soloniod and boom goes the piston and rings. but to me you will net more hp gain out of the wet kit. and probably a little safer to use...
yeah, iv seen a few intake manafolds go BOOM of a dry kit.
im just trying to see what most people recomend.
im also wanting to hide the setup so im not sure if a wet or dry would be easyer to hide.
im just trying to see what most people recomend.
im also wanting to hide the setup so im not sure if a wet or dry would be easyer to hide.
wet kit direct port is easier to hide.....
and wet kit is way safer...
why do you think dry kits only go to 200 or 250....and wet kits go way higher....
sometime next summer I'll be spraying a 150 wet shot to get out of the hole, and a 300 direct port wet shot on top of it...
and wet kit is way safer...
why do you think dry kits only go to 200 or 250....and wet kits go way higher....
sometime next summer I'll be spraying a 150 wet shot to get out of the hole, and a 300 direct port wet shot on top of it...
They are both equally safe if used and tuned properly...
Ask the current LS1 stock suspension nitrous record holders which kind of kit they run (I have a feeling all of this dry kit bashing will stop then).
Ask the current LS1 stock suspension nitrous record holders which kind of kit they run (I have a feeling all of this dry kit bashing will stop then).
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Yup I agree! Op take the time and to do a little research on here and you can find the correct information! most dry shots are limited to 125-150 shot because of the maf and pcm limitations in stock configuration!! Has nothing to do with the nitrous being a dry kit. You can spray dry well into the 200+ range, but custom tuning and fuel system uprades will be necessary... the stock maf is maxed at roughly 450whp... and fwiw dry kits are less prone to intake backfires.
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All you "dry shot will blow up your motor, wet is alot safer" fanboys never cease to amaze me. 
^^ truth.
^^ truth.
just because stock suspension has a record...doesnt mean its the fastest...it just means thats all a stock suspension can handle...a small dry shot..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
start getting into 250~300 and it starts to puddle in the intake... the bigger you go, the worse it gets....and all it takes is a little heat and you get a nice intake pop...which usually cracks the thing.
and a dry shot is much more prone to damaging an engine than a wet shot....
ask me how I know.....lots of friends lost engines to dry shots, only a few of them have lost an engine to a wet shot.
it does take a lot more stuff to run a wet shot....a lot more... expect to spend twice the money of a dry shot to do it correctly.
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
also theres the tuning factor.... dry shot = load a new tune for motor only or deal with the extra fuel at WOT for an all motor pass....
wet shot = plug and play....especially if you use an external controller to do your timing reduction..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
start getting into 250~300 and it starts to puddle in the intake... the bigger you go, the worse it gets....and all it takes is a little heat and you get a nice intake pop...which usually cracks the thing.
and a dry shot is much more prone to damaging an engine than a wet shot....
ask me how I know.....lots of friends lost engines to dry shots, only a few of them have lost an engine to a wet shot.
it does take a lot more stuff to run a wet shot....a lot more... expect to spend twice the money of a dry shot to do it correctly.
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
also theres the tuning factor.... dry shot = load a new tune for motor only or deal with the extra fuel at WOT for an all motor pass....
wet shot = plug and play....especially if you use an external controller to do your timing reduction..
just because stock suspension has a record...doesnt mean its the fastest...it just means thats all a stock suspension can handle...a small dry shot..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
1. There are guys using stock suspension on a direct port dry shot running well into the 9's
start getting into 250~300 and it starts to puddle in the intake... the bigger you go, the worse it gets....and all it takes is a little heat and you get a nice intake pop...which usually cracks the thing.
2. A wet direct port doens't puddle in the intake. There are plenty of guys shooting 250 on a plate but knowing how to do it and tune for it is a different story.
and a dry shot is much more prone to damaging an engine than a wet shot....
ask me how I know.....lots of friends lost engines to dry shots, only a few of them have lost an engine to a wet shot.
3. Your friends need to call our sponsors of ls1tech and get a little more info on spraying a dry shot and maybe they won't blow theirs up on the dry shot.
it does take a lot more stuff to run a wet shot....a lot more... expect to spend twice the money of a dry shot to do it correctly.
4. How so? With a dry shot, if you don't have injectors already, you will have to get bigger ones to supply the extra fuel. Thats more money spent on the dry kit already and then you will have to buy the interface from HSW or go get a tune for the bigger injectors and thats more money again.
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
5. Seek and ye shall find
also theres the tuning factor.... dry shot = load a new tune for motor only or deal with the extra fuel at WOT for an all motor pass....
wet shot = plug and play....especially if you use an external controller to do your timing reduction..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
1. There are guys using stock suspension on a direct port dry shot running well into the 9's
start getting into 250~300 and it starts to puddle in the intake... the bigger you go, the worse it gets....and all it takes is a little heat and you get a nice intake pop...which usually cracks the thing.
2. A wet direct port doens't puddle in the intake. There are plenty of guys shooting 250 on a plate but knowing how to do it and tune for it is a different story.
and a dry shot is much more prone to damaging an engine than a wet shot....
ask me how I know.....lots of friends lost engines to dry shots, only a few of them have lost an engine to a wet shot.
3. Your friends need to call our sponsors of ls1tech and get a little more info on spraying a dry shot and maybe they won't blow theirs up on the dry shot.
it does take a lot more stuff to run a wet shot....a lot more... expect to spend twice the money of a dry shot to do it correctly.
4. How so? With a dry shot, if you don't have injectors already, you will have to get bigger ones to supply the extra fuel. Thats more money spent on the dry kit already and then you will have to buy the interface from HSW or go get a tune for the bigger injectors and thats more money again.
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
5. Seek and ye shall find
also theres the tuning factor.... dry shot = load a new tune for motor only or deal with the extra fuel at WOT for an all motor pass....
wet shot = plug and play....especially if you use an external controller to do your timing reduction..
just because stock suspension has a record...doesnt mean its the fastest...it just means thats all a stock suspension can handle...a small dry shot..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
You are retarded and have little to no knowledge when it comes to nitrous.
Stop posting please !
Ya, why would you leave the line on 150 dry shot? Thats weak sauce!
We leave on 200 DRY and spray another 250 DRY on top of it.
There is so much dumb **** in this thread I dont even know where to start. LOL !
Nitrous is nitrous, wet or dry doesnt really matter. You need XX amount of fuel for XX amount of nitrous. The motor doesnt care how it gets those 2 things as long as you get it right it will go fast and not blow up because its "wet" or because its "dry".
ANYONE who says different doesnt know **** about the subject.
Thank you, drive thru !
Nitrous is nitrous, wet or dry doesnt really matter. You need XX amount of fuel for XX amount of nitrous. The motor doesnt care how it gets those 2 things as long as you get it right it will go fast and not blow up because its "wet" or because its "dry".
ANYONE who says different doesnt know **** about the subject.
Thank you, drive thru !
just because stock suspension has a record...doesnt mean its the fastest...it just means thats all a stock suspension can handle...a small dry shot..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
start getting into 250~300 and it starts to puddle in the intake... the bigger you go, the worse it gets....and all it takes is a little heat and you get a nice intake pop...which usually cracks the thing.
and a dry shot is much more prone to damaging an engine than a wet shot....
ask me how I know.....lots of friends lost engines to dry shots, only a few of them have lost an engine to a wet shot.
it does take a lot more stuff to run a wet shot....a lot more... expect to spend twice the money of a dry shot to do it correctly.
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
also theres the tuning factor.... dry shot = load a new tune for motor only or deal with the extra fuel at WOT for an all motor pass....
wet shot = plug and play....especially if you use an external controller to do your timing reduction..
when you start to get into Large Nitrous shots...it takes a lot more than stock suspension.....and it takes a direct port wet shot to get there...
start getting into 250~300 and it starts to puddle in the intake... the bigger you go, the worse it gets....and all it takes is a little heat and you get a nice intake pop...which usually cracks the thing.
and a dry shot is much more prone to damaging an engine than a wet shot....
ask me how I know.....lots of friends lost engines to dry shots, only a few of them have lost an engine to a wet shot.
it does take a lot more stuff to run a wet shot....a lot more... expect to spend twice the money of a dry shot to do it correctly.
and I dont know anybody that would leave the line on a 150 dry shot and spray another 300 on top of it dry.....
also theres the tuning factor.... dry shot = load a new tune for motor only or deal with the extra fuel at WOT for an all motor pass....
wet shot = plug and play....especially if you use an external controller to do your timing reduction..
I have quite a large nitrous knowledge....
Just because I say something that all you dry guys hate.....doesnt make it wrong
to the OP...
both methods work...
personally...wet is safer and easier to tune.
if budget minded is where you are at... then go dry...but by the time you set up all the tuning things, you may be spending the same or more than you would with a wet kit.
and wet kits are fairly limited to smaller shots on LS1's...LS1's tend to not liike larger than a 150 on a regular basis... go wet and they can usually handle 200~250 on a regular basis
one of the most common problems I see on a dry shot is the solenoid locking up or the injectors freezing...both can be very bad for your engine..
not saying this cant happen with wet shot, but typically injectors dont freeze with a wet shot.
the dry system relies on the MAF..if the MAF fails, or if its calibrated incorrectly... you can have a lean condition that will be very bad for the engine.... and a simple Dyno tune may not include VE tuning which you will need for "in case of MAF failure"
also a direct port wet shot, can be tuner per cylinder...where as a plate style wet or dry cannot. I prefer the direct port for large shots and have run extermely large Nitrous systems on my low 7 second race setups when I was racing full time....
all versions can be made to shut down the system when something fails...and I highly suggest a minimum of a fuel pressure failure cutoff switch
Just because its being done, doesnt mean its safer for one reason or another...
both can be very safe if done properly...
it takes less work to make a wet system safe than it does to make a dry system safe. but a dry system will typically cost less money in parts for the same size shot of nitrous.
As it was stated above, there's no clear answer to the "wet or dry -- which is better" question. Both can work equally as well. Both can be hidden.
Personally, I went with a wet kit. I'm slightly partial to wet kits and got a great deal on one so I went that way. If I would've found a killer deal on a dry kit, that would've worked for me too.
From a tuning standpoint, I don't swap back and forth with different tunes. I'm tuned for the 150 shot and understand I'm sacraficing a little N/A power in exchange for the convenience. If I'm worried about losing 15 rwhp from my N/A tune I can just turn the bottle on -- problem solved.
In summary, do a little more research on the site about the pros and cons of the different types of kits and find one that works well for you.
Personally, I went with a wet kit. I'm slightly partial to wet kits and got a great deal on one so I went that way. If I would've found a killer deal on a dry kit, that would've worked for me too.
From a tuning standpoint, I don't swap back and forth with different tunes. I'm tuned for the 150 shot and understand I'm sacraficing a little N/A power in exchange for the convenience. If I'm worried about losing 15 rwhp from my N/A tune I can just turn the bottle on -- problem solved.
In summary, do a little more research on the site about the pros and cons of the different types of kits and find one that works well for you.
soundengineer.... What do you know about a dry DP? Can you tune the cylinders individually with one of those? Did you just ignore what Wayne had to say?
There is a ton of misinformation in your last post.
There is a ton of misinformation in your last post.
actually I've never seen anybody waste their money on a dry DP...whats the point?
oh wait...I forgot...you guys like to waste money
with a Dry DP you have to have a tune that has the injectors spraying enough fuel to keep it from leaning out....
depending on how big or how small you go, this could mean larger injectors...this could also potentially mean injectors so big that your idle suffers.
having to load a tune for NA or nitrous is only possibly if you own your own tuning device or unless you have bought a hybrid double pcm that you can leave both tunes on and flip a switch when you want to run one way or another.
now the price has just gone up quite a large amount unless yo only plan on running a nitrous tune only...and for the money you would spend in all the extras for the Dry DP, you could have gone with a wet kit that would do the same job, with less work for safe fueling involved.
I have no idea of what sizes are available for a dry DP kit...but again.. if its a stock bottom end LS1, theres no point in going over a 200 shot...the bottom end doesnt hold much more than that for very long....
it all comes back to the age old "how much rear wheel horsepower can the stock bottom end on an LS1 handle"...some guys get away with more, some less..
if I had a car that I drove on the street on a regular basis... I would not recommend a Dry Direct port kit
oh wait...I forgot...you guys like to waste money
with a Dry DP you have to have a tune that has the injectors spraying enough fuel to keep it from leaning out....
depending on how big or how small you go, this could mean larger injectors...this could also potentially mean injectors so big that your idle suffers.
having to load a tune for NA or nitrous is only possibly if you own your own tuning device or unless you have bought a hybrid double pcm that you can leave both tunes on and flip a switch when you want to run one way or another.
now the price has just gone up quite a large amount unless yo only plan on running a nitrous tune only...and for the money you would spend in all the extras for the Dry DP, you could have gone with a wet kit that would do the same job, with less work for safe fueling involved.
I have no idea of what sizes are available for a dry DP kit...but again.. if its a stock bottom end LS1, theres no point in going over a 200 shot...the bottom end doesnt hold much more than that for very long....
it all comes back to the age old "how much rear wheel horsepower can the stock bottom end on an LS1 handle"...some guys get away with more, some less..
if I had a car that I drove on the street on a regular basis... I would not recommend a Dry Direct port kit
I have quite a large nitrous knowledge....
Just because I say something that all you dry guys hate.....doesnt make it wrong
to the OP...
both methods work...
personally...wet is safer and easier to tune.
if budget minded is where you are at... then go dry...but by the time you set up all the tuning things, you may be spending the same or more than you would with a wet kit.
and wet kits are fairly limited to smaller shots on LS1's...LS1's tend to not liike larger than a 150 on a regular basis... go wet and they can usually handle 200~250 on a regular basis
one of the most common problems I see on a dry shot is the solenoid locking up or the injectors freezing...both can be very bad for your engine..
not saying this cant happen with wet shot, but typically injectors dont freeze with a wet shot.
the dry system relies on the MAF..if the MAF fails, or if its calibrated incorrectly... you can have a lean condition that will be very bad for the engine.... and a simple Dyno tune may not include VE tuning which you will need for "in case of MAF failure"
also a direct port wet shot, can be tuner per cylinder...where as a plate style wet or dry cannot. I prefer the direct port for large shots and have run extermely large Nitrous systems on my low 7 second race setups when I was racing full time....
all versions can be made to shut down the system when something fails...and I highly suggest a minimum of a fuel pressure failure cutoff switch
Just because its being done, doesnt mean its safer for one reason or another...
both can be very safe if done properly...
it takes less work to make a wet system safe than it does to make a dry system safe. but a dry system will typically cost less money in parts for the same size shot of nitrous.
Just because I say something that all you dry guys hate.....doesnt make it wrong
to the OP...
both methods work...
personally...wet is safer and easier to tune.
if budget minded is where you are at... then go dry...but by the time you set up all the tuning things, you may be spending the same or more than you would with a wet kit.
and wet kits are fairly limited to smaller shots on LS1's...LS1's tend to not liike larger than a 150 on a regular basis... go wet and they can usually handle 200~250 on a regular basis
one of the most common problems I see on a dry shot is the solenoid locking up or the injectors freezing...both can be very bad for your engine..
not saying this cant happen with wet shot, but typically injectors dont freeze with a wet shot.
the dry system relies on the MAF..if the MAF fails, or if its calibrated incorrectly... you can have a lean condition that will be very bad for the engine.... and a simple Dyno tune may not include VE tuning which you will need for "in case of MAF failure"
also a direct port wet shot, can be tuner per cylinder...where as a plate style wet or dry cannot. I prefer the direct port for large shots and have run extermely large Nitrous systems on my low 7 second race setups when I was racing full time....
all versions can be made to shut down the system when something fails...and I highly suggest a minimum of a fuel pressure failure cutoff switch
Just because its being done, doesnt mean its safer for one reason or another...
both can be very safe if done properly...
it takes less work to make a wet system safe than it does to make a dry system safe. but a dry system will typically cost less money in parts for the same size shot of nitrous.
Injectors freezing? Man you should of become a comedian
Ask ATV if he is running a fuel pressure safety switch.
I have quite a large nitrous knowledge....
Just because I say something that all you dry guys hate.....doesnt make it wrong
to the OP...
both methods work...
personally...wet is safer and easier to tune.
if budget minded is where you are at... then go dry...but by the time you set up all the tuning things, you may be spending the same or more than you would with a wet kit.
and wet kits are fairly limited to smaller shots on LS1's...LS1's tend to not liike larger than a 150 on a regular basis... go wet and they can usually handle 200~250 on a regular basis
one of the most common problems I see on a dry shot is the solenoid locking up or the injectors freezing...both can be very bad for your engine..
not saying this cant happen with wet shot, but typically injectors dont freeze with a wet shot.
the dry system relies on the MAF..if the MAF fails, or if its calibrated incorrectly... you can have a lean condition that will be very bad for the engine.... and a simple Dyno tune may not include VE tuning which you will need for "in case of MAF failure"
also a direct port wet shot, can be tuner per cylinder...where as a plate style wet or dry cannot. I prefer the direct port for large shots and have run extermely large Nitrous systems on my low 7 second race setups when I was racing full time....
all versions can be made to shut down the system when something fails...and I highly suggest a minimum of a fuel pressure failure cutoff switch
Just because its being done, doesnt mean its safer for one reason or another...
both can be very safe if done properly...
it takes less work to make a wet system safe than it does to make a dry system safe. but a dry system will typically cost less money in parts for the same size shot of nitrous.
Just because I say something that all you dry guys hate.....doesnt make it wrong
to the OP...
both methods work...
personally...wet is safer and easier to tune.
if budget minded is where you are at... then go dry...but by the time you set up all the tuning things, you may be spending the same or more than you would with a wet kit.
and wet kits are fairly limited to smaller shots on LS1's...LS1's tend to not liike larger than a 150 on a regular basis... go wet and they can usually handle 200~250 on a regular basis
one of the most common problems I see on a dry shot is the solenoid locking up or the injectors freezing...both can be very bad for your engine..
not saying this cant happen with wet shot, but typically injectors dont freeze with a wet shot.
the dry system relies on the MAF..if the MAF fails, or if its calibrated incorrectly... you can have a lean condition that will be very bad for the engine.... and a simple Dyno tune may not include VE tuning which you will need for "in case of MAF failure"
also a direct port wet shot, can be tuner per cylinder...where as a plate style wet or dry cannot. I prefer the direct port for large shots and have run extermely large Nitrous systems on my low 7 second race setups when I was racing full time....
all versions can be made to shut down the system when something fails...and I highly suggest a minimum of a fuel pressure failure cutoff switch
Just because its being done, doesnt mean its safer for one reason or another...
both can be very safe if done properly...
it takes less work to make a wet system safe than it does to make a dry system safe. but a dry system will typically cost less money in parts for the same size shot of nitrous.
I have a 2 stage DRY direct port .... I do not have a MAF.... didnt have one when I had a stock computer and the dry shot worked fine.
A injector can "freeze up" without nitrous so if you dont trust them to fuel your nitrous why would you trust them to fuel your motor? Stupid right.
Buy good injectors and they will not "freeze up"
A noid locking up has nothing to do with it being Dry or wet.
What does the noid know its on a Dry kit so it locks up but if its on a wet kit it wont? retarded!!