new to non carbureted no2
01-09-2011, 03:44 PM
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new to non carbureted no2 Been running wet kits for years & want it hook up to my '01 TA
car is stock except for Y-back flowmaster 2in1(as far as I know, but when I bought it, it had signs of no2 being on it previously ) there are 2 holes in the lid & the fuel lines near the filter seems to have been tampered with.
my question is what can I use off of my many plate kits to save $... wet or dry... where to plumb N. and/or fuel nozles.
--tune, window switch, rpm switch ??, instructions, pump?
no2 has come a long way since i've bought my kits 15+ yrs ago
window switches, dry kits ...
I've ran them on 4 speeds & just used the on/off toggle & shifter button .
Can somebody tell me what my options are. (i'm kinda old school so dry kits scare me. I like knowing the added fuel is jetted there & not relying on the computer to mix it; hopefully correctly; w/ existing fuel supply) dry kits have been out there long enough now so I'm willing to try dry (I think)
I have 3 bottles, plenty of line toggle, & sylinoids but no electronics at all
car is stock except for Y-back flowmaster 2in1(as far as I know, but when I bought it, it had signs of no2 being on it previously ) there are 2 holes in the lid & the fuel lines near the filter seems to have been tampered with.
my question is what can I use off of my many plate kits to save $... wet or dry... where to plumb N. and/or fuel nozles.
--tune, window switch, rpm switch ??, instructions, pump?
no2 has come a long way since i've bought my kits 15+ yrs ago
window switches, dry kits ...
I've ran them on 4 speeds & just used the on/off toggle & shifter button .
Can somebody tell me what my options are. (i'm kinda old school so dry kits scare me. I like knowing the added fuel is jetted there & not relying on the computer to mix it; hopefully correctly; w/ existing fuel supply) dry kits have been out there long enough now so I'm willing to try dry (I think)
I have 3 bottles, plenty of line toggle, & sylinoids but no electronics at all
01-09-2011, 05:24 PM
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01-09-2011, 05:25 PM
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01-13-2011, 11:31 PM
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if you go dry, it goes before the maf, you will need to get a bigger set of inj to add more fuel, and it can be sent thru a fogger nozzle. Going to need a way to pull timing,about 2-3 deg for every 50 horse is a good start, and for a 150 shot, a br7ef plug. If you go wet, it comes after the maf, and same as before. U can go plate, nozzle, whatever with a wet, and tap into the fuel rail, but stock pump needs to be kept a close eye on. GL, and some of the more exp guys can add to this/ correct anything.
01-14-2011, 08:27 PM
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if you go dry, it goes before the maf, you will need to get a bigger set of inj to add more fuel, and it can be sent thru a fogger nozzle. Going to need a way to pull timing,about 2-3 deg for every 50 horse is a good start, and for a 150 shot, a br7ef plug. If you go wet, it comes after the maf, and same as before. U can go plate, nozzle, whatever with a wet, and tap into the fuel rail, but stock pump needs to be kept a close eye on. GL, and some of the more exp guys can add to this/ correct anything.
are you running wet or dry & why?
01-14-2011, 09:10 PM
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I am currently running a dry set up, which has done well, but I am going to switch it over to a wet kit. Both work well. A lot of people like the dry bc they do not like the possibility of having any fuel puddle in the intake, I went dry bc thats what I first bought.
01-15-2011, 05:28 AM
#11
For you to use your current stuff you should only need a spay nozzle. You basically replace the old carb plate with a mixing nozzle right before the throttle plate. I would recommend wet only because you already have the fuel noids, and the fact that I like wet better then dry. I am not that "old school" but a wet system is much more comfortable on my mind!!
If you have a stock or mild tune(ask your tuner if you have one) then there is no need to pull timing for a 100 shot. Make sure you run mostly 110 octane(go from near empty and add the amount of 110 you need to run) when you are spraying and you will be fine. A timing controller would be big help if you don't want to have run the tank near empty every time you want to spray.
You are accustom to a button but a window switch makes life much easier. Set your arm switch and mash the gas. It will bring the spray on when you want and won't spray on shifts if you don't want it to.
If you have a stock or mild tune(ask your tuner if you have one) then there is no need to pull timing for a 100 shot. Make sure you run mostly 110 octane(go from near empty and add the amount of 110 you need to run) when you are spraying and you will be fine. A timing controller would be big help if you don't want to have run the tank near empty every time you want to spray.
You are accustom to a button but a window switch makes life much easier. Set your arm switch and mash the gas. It will bring the spray on when you want and won't spray on shifts if you don't want it to.
01-15-2011, 08:24 AM
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For you to use your current stuff you should only need a spay nozzle. You basically replace the old carb plate with a mixing nozzle right before the throttle plate. I would recommend wet only because you already have the fuel noids, and the fact that I like wet better then dry. I am not that "old school" but a wet system is much more comfortable on my mind!!
If you have a stock or mild tune(ask your tuner if you have one) then there is no need to pull timing for a 100 shot. Make sure you run mostly 110 octane(go from near empty and add the amount of 110 you need to run) when you are spraying and you will be fine. A timing controller would be big help if you don't want to have run the tank near empty every time you want to spray.
You are accustom to a button but a window switch makes life much easier. Set your arm switch and mash the gas. It will bring the spray on when you want and won't spray on shifts if you don't want it to.
If you have a stock or mild tune(ask your tuner if you have one) then there is no need to pull timing for a 100 shot. Make sure you run mostly 110 octane(go from near empty and add the amount of 110 you need to run) when you are spraying and you will be fine. A timing controller would be big help if you don't want to have run the tank near empty every time you want to spray.
You are accustom to a button but a window switch makes life much easier. Set your arm switch and mash the gas. It will bring the spray on when you want and won't spray on shifts if you don't want it to.
yeah, it would be more comfortable on my mind as well
there are connections near my fuel filter (like someone put an inline pump?)
do any of you guys do this & why (just as A helper? ) does it help at all when you would be still flowing through the in tank pump first?
01-15-2011, 10:02 AM
#13
If somebody had an inline pump it might have been a dry system they had on the car. It helps alittle because if it didn't the manufacturers wouldn't sell them in the nitrous kit.
Make sure you have an aftermarket pump in the tank with a hotwire kit. The stock pump doesn't do too well. Also, do it for peace of mind.
I have a wet 200 coming off the rail. The wet is easier to tune and I didn't want to have to buy injectors for a dry.
Listen to our sponsors on here and the mods, they will keep you headed in the right direction. Some of our resident gurus on here will help you too, ATV, Shiz, Baked, and a few others
Make sure you have an aftermarket pump in the tank with a hotwire kit. The stock pump doesn't do too well. Also, do it for peace of mind.
I have a wet 200 coming off the rail. The wet is easier to tune and I didn't want to have to buy injectors for a dry.
Listen to our sponsors on here and the mods, they will keep you headed in the right direction. Some of our resident gurus on here will help you too, ATV, Shiz, Baked, and a few others
01-15-2011, 03:03 PM
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If somebody had an inline pump it might have been a dry system they had on the car. It helps alittle because if it didn't the manufacturers wouldn't sell them in the nitrous kit.
Make sure you have an aftermarket pump in the tank with a hotwire kit. The stock pump doesn't do too well. Also, do it for peace of mind.
I have a wet 200 coming off the rail. The wet is easier to tune and I didn't want to have to buy injectors for a dry.
Listen to our sponsors on here and the mods, they will keep you headed in the right direction. Some of our resident gurus on here will help you too, ATV, Shiz, Baked, and a few others
Make sure you have an aftermarket pump in the tank with a hotwire kit. The stock pump doesn't do too well. Also, do it for peace of mind.
I have a wet 200 coming off the rail. The wet is easier to tune and I didn't want to have to buy injectors for a dry.
Listen to our sponsors on here and the mods, they will keep you headed in the right direction. Some of our resident gurus on here will help you too, ATV, Shiz, Baked, and a few others
That makes sense, it has all the other signs of a dry kit being on it previously, I didn't know they came w/ a pump.
So basically I need to buy A nozzle and pump for wet or a nozzle & injectors for dry. whats a hot wire kit?
01-18-2011, 03:30 PM
#16
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actually you can run 93 octane on spray up to around 150-175 shot , i ran 93 in mine with a 100 shot dry kit for 2 years as a DD with no probs. usual set up for up to 150 shot is 2-3 degree de-advance in timing, colder plugs, hotwire kit and pump and running 93 octane at all times and of course getting a complete ECU tune to match ur setup never hurt either!
01-20-2011, 05:53 AM
#17
actually you can run 93 octane on spray up to around 150-175 shot , i ran 93 in mine with a 100 shot dry kit for 2 years as a DD with no probs. usual set up for up to 150 shot is 2-3 degree de-advance in timing, colder plugs, hotwire kit and pump and running 93 octane at all times and of course getting a complete ECU tune to match ur setup never hurt either!
If the car is running good on motor why would he need another tune? You can pull the timing from your motor tune with a timing tuner or lingenfelter box. That way you can keep your motor tune and pull timing as soon as you hit the button.
01-20-2011, 07:13 AM
#18
12 Second Club
Bad info dude. 93 can be ran (I've done it too) but as far as timing 2-3 degrees on a 150 is a no-no. Pull out 6 degrees minimum for a 150 then put the timing back in as needed by reading the plugs. I can show you what a 150 does with only 2-3 degrees pulled and its not pretty.
If the car is running good on motor why would he need another tune? You can pull the timing from your motor tune with a timing tuner or lingenfelter box. That way you can keep your motor tune and pull timing as soon as you hit the button.
If the car is running good on motor why would he need another tune? You can pull the timing from your motor tune with a timing tuner or lingenfelter box. That way you can keep your motor tune and pull timing as soon as you hit the button.
01-20-2011, 09:15 AM
#19
actually you can run 93 octane on spray up to around 150-175 shot , i ran 93 in mine with a 100 shot dry kit for 2 years as a DD with no probs. usual set up for up to 150 shot is 2-3 degree de-advance in timing, colder plugs, hotwire kit and pump and running 93 octane at all times and of course getting a complete ECU tune to match ur setup never hurt either!
Well? mine ran fine of 4 degrees on a 100 dry shot for two years and with the plugs gapped right and running 93 octane with every fill up on DD , sprayin it 6 -7 passes on the strip then a few against a stang on the way home, my plugs came out just fine and i know because i just changed them 3 months ago with a full tune up. Oh and when i said getting the ECU tuned, most ppl havent gotten the skip shift eliminated yet or the speed govner and such takin off yet. besides theres nothing wrong with checking your tune, especially if you have the program and a buddy with a dyno to do it
IDK guess i had a blonde moment 
