The last 2 times out with the car my NX TPS switch hasn't activated the window switch at WOT..It shows to be working but something is keeping it from activating..

Today I diconnected the TPS sensor and window switch and waiting on one of Jimmy Jams micro switches with the bracket to arrive..I ran both solenoids to hot and they both worked so my question is how many people are running safely spraying without a window switch ??

I not planning on running the system with no more then a 100 shot and the majority of the time with the 75 shot only..
Thanks

 

I ran umpteen bottles, never used a window switch. I know it is another redundant feature, and in the scope of "safety" it is safer than not using one I imagine. But, I look at like, I'm spraying 200 wet-shot of nitrous, thru an intake that was meant to be a dry intake, on a stock bottom end, with (at the time) a stock trans, and rear end, with no FPSS. WTF do I need another reason for safety? I never had a problem either. First run of the night, armed in the water box, and tapped the WOT a couple times to purge, then line up and blow it out the hole. After that, arm at the pre-stage and roll it out at WOT. With a 3000stall vert the RPMs are always over the 3k kill zone. Although once I sprayed off just a simple one wire switch, and hit it at about 2400rpms, as logged on the scanner, and it booked, not recommended.
Good luck.

Charlie

 

Adjust the tps down so that it engages at 75% to 85% throttle instead of at 100% throttle. I did that to mine and it works every time without a hitch. No window switches on mine at all.

 

Windows Switches? Naw do not believe in them I figure I am putting down as much HP and Torque as a good turbo car and THEY do not use one.

 

Do FI cars blow motors when they go lean from hitting the rev limiter, or blow motors when they bring boost on under 3000RPM ?

If you're good with the activation button timing, you don't need one. For the rest of us that want to be worried about other things during a pass/race it's nice to have.

Bad30th

 

Thanks Derty and I've tried that and still the LED lights up but once I checked voltage out of the switch today it showed nothing so I'm just taking it off..The switch and bracket came in today from Jimmy -Jams and I'm hooking it up tomorrow..

Thanks CAT3 for the info also..I was a little leary spraying out the hole on the stock 10 bolt but the Moser 9" is going in next week and the tranny is getting freshened up the week after..
Thanks Again

 

From my experience, the 10bolt is good for an Auto car with loose stall. Again, mine is at 3,000rpms and ppl say its loose, I have cut days of 1.5 & 1.6 spraying outta the shute. The only thing, make sure you check and change fluid, and I have a rear TA cover with studs, but I was banging some good 60' before that.

I dont see the relevency of being good with an activation button if you use a WOT switch. Even with a stock convertor, you cant launch while spraying under 3000rpms, at least thats what I learned. Everytime, from idle, arm and nail the WOT the rpm are already at 3000 or maybe an irish hair under. Then its off to the finish line.

As long as your shift points are good, no slipping in the trans, and all the Window switch wont even be a factor really. MAYBE for longer life on the stock auto, but thers too many factors to play into that one.

 

Umm yes too much boost BOOM. Nope... Still do not believe in window switches. Two years on N2O now, no switch. (knock knock)

 

http://sam.bytebandits.com/rado18/samsdyno.jpg <-- factory vw supercharged, no window switch, and yes i hit it under 3000 all the time. And fwiw, yes if you misshift and tach 7500 and hit the rev limited backfires/blown hg was the result. I wish i had a window switch, but i'd still fire the shiz before 3000 rpm unless i was going uphill in 5th gear at 40mph..

(motor was 140K including blower 140K, so it wasn't really up to snuff, 40 shot btw).

I'd recommend a window switch if i were you.. cheap insurance.

I didn't feel like wiring up the relays n ****, so i just tapped the horn power (relayed) lol.

 

Nope no window switch either, still on stock trans/10 bolt. I'm shooting 135 dry though, it is a little bit more gentle.

 

I run one. And have been using N20 for two years.

One fear would be snapping my driveshaft and hitting the rev limiter while spraying.

 

or slipping the trans and hitting the rev which I did... caused such a violent explosion that it blew the intake apart... bowed the hood because the pressure went out the top of my modified LS6 intake ( EGR Plugged ) and flipped the hood onto the windshield at about 80mph down the track...

get a window switch

 

The thing is the 4l60e is a piece and we all know it.You never know when its going to start slipping.Some people have better luck than others.My self 85.00 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild.
Dave

 

Daves got a point. As for the trans going. When mine went in Nov, I decided I was going to spray a 200shot. It was a $ race, so I needed to ya know. Bam, launched nicely, sprayed from the launch to the time it laid on the Rev Limiter after shifting out of 2nd gear. No 3rd gear anymore. Bad news, I had it hooked to ONE hot wired switch, no WOT, no Arming switch, no Window Switch. I made it out with just a bad 3-4 clutch pack, but the thought was there, my engine blown all over, or shooting a rod, or whatever, trust me. Lucky? Yep.

 

So slow, I sent you a PM

Feel free to write.