Sprayed first 100 shot today. Not impressed :(
#41
10 Second Club
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Location: Houston Tx
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For tuning purposes pull them all. After you got it all lined out with a good tune, spraying such a small shot you should be able to just run the combo. Good plugs,proper timing retard and consistent bottle pressure,doesn't require pulling the plugs after every hit. You still want to keep an eye on the plugs,because if you burn one up and spray it you will have major problems. Put it on a dyno with a non projected tip and watch the a/f ratio. Make sure it's between 12 or11.5 to 1. Consistent bottle pressure is a major factor, look into a NANO. Too much fuel and it will feel like a turd, but too much n2o and it won't last long at all.
#42
For tuning purposes pull them all. After you got it all lined out with a good tune, spraying such a small shot you should be able to just run the combo. Good plugs,proper timing retard and consistent bottle pressure,doesn't require pulling the plugs after every hit. You still want to keep an eye on the plugs,because if you burn one up and spray it you will have major problems. Put it on a dyno with a non projected tip and watch the a/f ratio. Make sure it's between 12 or11.5 to 1. Consistent bottle pressure is a major factor, look into a NANO. Too much fuel and it will feel like a turd, but too much n2o and it won't last long at all.
#43
6 & 8 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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OK, so a guy that has been doing this since 1982 answers several questions.
His opinions have been learned from several thousand pass', and years of trial & error.
Then when it gets a little inconvenient, he doesn't know what he's doing and giving BS advice!!
On top of that, most people would welcome advice from one of the few,
if not only guy on this forum that has a 6 second, 200 mph car sitting in his shop!!
After all, I did build & tune personally the system on my latest engine.
Last advice, you do need to pull every plug after EVERY hit, and stick fresh plugs in every time.
As mentioned, when you are testing, there is no other way to get exact data, because once you drive around,
let it idle, or even drive back from a pass at the track they lose the information you need.
Once you are dialed in you can be as lazy as you want, well at least up until you burn something up from being lazy.
I'm cheap, I will pull plugs as much as needed, instead of burning up a $40,000 engine.
Anyone else, drop me a note if you need help, I'll do my best.
.
OK, so a guy that has been doing this since 1982 answers several questions.
His opinions have been learned from several thousand pass', and years of trial & error.
Then when it gets a little inconvenient, he doesn't know what he's doing and giving BS advice!!
On top of that, most people would welcome advice from one of the few,
if not only guy on this forum that has a 6 second, 200 mph car sitting in his shop!!
After all, I did build & tune personally the system on my latest engine.
Last advice, you do need to pull every plug after EVERY hit, and stick fresh plugs in every time.
As mentioned, when you are testing, there is no other way to get exact data, because once you drive around,
let it idle, or even drive back from a pass at the track they lose the information you need.
Once you are dialed in you can be as lazy as you want, well at least up until you burn something up from being lazy.
I'm cheap, I will pull plugs as much as needed, instead of burning up a $40,000 engine.
Anyone else, drop me a note if you need help, I'll do my best.
.
#44
.
OK, so a guy that has been doing this since 1982 answers several questions.
His opinions have been learned from several thousand pass', and years of trial & error.
Then when it gets a little inconvenient, he doesn't know what he's doing and giving BS advice!!
On top of that, most people would welcome advice from one of the few,
if not only guy on this forum that has a 6 second, 200 mph car sitting in his shop!!
After all, I did build & tune personally the system on my latest engine.
Last advice, you do need to pull every plug after EVERY hit, and stick fresh plugs in every time.
As mentioned, when you are testing, there is no other way to get exact data, because once you drive around,
let it idle, or even drive back from a pass at the track they lose the information you need.
Once you are dialed in you can be as lazy as you want, well at least up until you burn something up from being lazy.
I'm cheap, I will pull plugs as much as needed, instead of burning up a $40,000 engine.
Anyone else, drop me a note if you need help, I'll do my best.
.
OK, so a guy that has been doing this since 1982 answers several questions.
His opinions have been learned from several thousand pass', and years of trial & error.
Then when it gets a little inconvenient, he doesn't know what he's doing and giving BS advice!!
On top of that, most people would welcome advice from one of the few,
if not only guy on this forum that has a 6 second, 200 mph car sitting in his shop!!
After all, I did build & tune personally the system on my latest engine.
Last advice, you do need to pull every plug after EVERY hit, and stick fresh plugs in every time.
As mentioned, when you are testing, there is no other way to get exact data, because once you drive around,
let it idle, or even drive back from a pass at the track they lose the information you need.
Once you are dialed in you can be as lazy as you want, well at least up until you burn something up from being lazy.
I'm cheap, I will pull plugs as much as needed, instead of burning up a $40,000 engine.
Anyone else, drop me a note if you need help, I'll do my best.
.
Lol I never said you were wrong or anything... I said it was bs to do. Bassicly being lazy. I don't think running 1 bottle of a 100 shot through it with timing pulled and everythere were it is "saposed" to be will hurt anything.. I will take your advice and pull the plugs and try to find my A/F ratio while spraying.. And what you're saying is it's pointless to pull the plugs now sense I already have maid several pulls on it and let it idle? What do I do to get accurate plugs than? Let it warm up real quick take it on the highway spray it and drive it home?
#46
Yes big time! If your bottle pressure is to low it sucks though! Once I got my bottle pressure up it is a big difference! Honestly my SOTP meter kinda sucks. I recorded back to back and you can see HUGE difference. Make a vid stock and on 100 shot if your SOTP meter sucks like mine
#47
Launching!
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas City
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Good deal lol. I'm aiming to get it installed next weekend. I got a window switch and an LNC 2000 so I should be good to go. I can't wait to make my friends **** their pants with a tiny 100 shot.
#48
I had the same issues as you sweet99ss and it all came down to plugs and bottle pressure. Low pressure and it felt like a slug,,,get the pressure up to 1000-1050 and big difference. The BR7Efs did feel a little sluggish compared to the BR6EFs and I have the Lingenfelter pulling 5 degrees for safety too but if you hit it on motor tune and dont pull timing it will jump sideways but will melt something like that. Tune/Fuel/Bottle Pressure and weather conditions are all factors in the success or failure in running nitrous. I had a stock convertor at first and the SOTP feel was more noticeable than with the convertor because the stall convertor will mask some of that feel but it will be moving out better. Timeslips are the key......I cannot tell much difference between a 11.70 pass and 12.10 pass. 60fts and traction is where its at.
#50
Launching!
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas City
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I had the same issues as you sweet99ss and it all came down to plugs and bottle pressure. Low pressure and it felt like a slug,,,get the pressure up to 1000-1050 and big difference. The BR7Efs did feel a little sluggish compared to the BR6EFs and I have the Lingenfelter pulling 5 degrees for safety too but if you hit it on motor tune and dont pull timing it will jump sideways but will melt something like that. Tune/Fuel/Bottle Pressure and weather conditions are all factors in the success or failure in running nitrous. I had a stock convertor at first and the SOTP feel was more noticeable than with the convertor because the stall convertor will mask some of that feel but it will be moving out better. Timeslips are the key......I cannot tell much difference between a 11.70 pass and 12.10 pass. 60fts and traction is where its at.
I'm installing it myself, but I will have my dads mechanic watching over my shoulder.
And where can a guy get the NGK plugs?
#51
It is recomended you pull atleast 2* of timing for every 50hp shot. So 100 shot you would want to pull 4-5* of timing. Install will take you awhile just because of all the wires that have to be ran back and forth and such. I would recomend getting the br7ef plugs.
#52
Launching!
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas City
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A window switch and the lingenfelter timing contoller should do it right? The car got a custom tune after we put the headers on. The guy hooked it up to his computer but I don't think I need it since I have the window/timing switch.
#53
Yea you need a kit to start with... Than you will need br7ef plugs, extra 12 and 14 gauge primary wire (got mine from wall-mart), lingenfelter timing contoller, Interior switches for everything, bottle heater, botle pressure gauge, and blue loctite for solenoids.. I am probably leaving something out, but that is what most of my kit consists of. I was about 1k into mine. I have the nitrous outlet brand x wet kit with NX bottle heater, nitrous outlet ashtray switch, and nitrous outlet pressure gauge. I just looked at ALOT of wiring diagrams to figure out what I wanted to do and asked alot of questions. Installed mine 100% by myself and I am not the best when dealing with wiring. Goodluck
#54
Launching!
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I got the LS1 Wet Plate Kit from Nitrous Oxide Systems. I will try to wire the main power switch into the ashtray. I have all the needed tools at my disposal though lol. I'm ready to rock and roll. Thanks for the input.
#56
plugs/timimg
4-5 degrees of timimg pulled is fine for a 100shot. You can get the plugs at any autoparts store. Oreily has them..Autozone might have them or they can get them in a day.