Breaking up on 150 shot
#1
Staging Lane
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Breaking up on 150 shot
I have a 99 z28 auto that is bone stock besides a catback. I put a Nitrous plate kit on it, Jetted for 150 with a HSW interface controller. I put in TR6's for plugs and sprayed the car for the first time last night and it was breaking up. Almost acting like it was aiming and disarming quickly. No backfire just cutting up, anyone with lots of nitrous experience help point me in the right direction, thanks
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I have the Interface set to pull 6* on top end and adding 2% more fuel so that it not leaning out. I will be taking the car to the track this coming sunday for more testing. I'll do a pass then pull the plugs and take pics. Thanks for the response.
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I would pull the plugs before you spray it again. Make sure that the breaking up you were feeling wasn't detonation. They should come out anyway to put some be7ef's in there which is the proper plug for a nitrous setup.
#5
How do you know +2% fuel is enough? Do not spray it again on those plugs. Change to some br7ef's at the track and get a baseline.
#6
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Assuming the timing was was -6, and your fuel was correct, I am thinking that your plug gap may have been too much, and the nitrous was blowing out the spark.
Ditch the TR6's, put in br7ef's, drop down to a 100 shot and run it.
What other mod's do you have?
Even bone stock, running a 150 rwhp shot is pushing your stock fuel pump right to the edge of the "safe" limit.
Take a step back, call the guy's at nitrous outlet and get some experienced input on where to go from here.
Ditch the TR6's, put in br7ef's, drop down to a 100 shot and run it.
What other mod's do you have?
Even bone stock, running a 150 rwhp shot is pushing your stock fuel pump right to the edge of the "safe" limit.
Take a step back, call the guy's at nitrous outlet and get some experienced input on where to go from here.
#7
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Assuming the timing was was -6, and your fuel was correct, I am thinking that your plug gap may have been too much, and the nitrous was blowing out the spark.
Ditch the TR6's, put in br7ef's, drop down to a 100 shot and run it.
What other mod's do you have?
Even bone stock, running a 150 rwhp shot is pushing your stock fuel pump right to the edge of the "safe" limit.
Take a step back, call the guy's at nitrous outlet and get some experienced input on where to go from here.
Ditch the TR6's, put in br7ef's, drop down to a 100 shot and run it.
What other mod's do you have?
Even bone stock, running a 150 rwhp shot is pushing your stock fuel pump right to the edge of the "safe" limit.
Take a step back, call the guy's at nitrous outlet and get some experienced input on where to go from here.
The gap on a TR6 out the box is huge and most likely the reason you were breaking up.
But a BR7 in it, verify the gap is .035 and try it again.
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#8
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Pulling 6* from stock timing and im running a wet plate kit so just adding the 2% fuel to be "safe". I havent drilled my stock exhaust yet to but a wide band in so dont know A/F for sure.
#10
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Bro, you're super rich.
Take the 2% out, and jet down the fuel the next size jet you have. Rich is far from safe.
When you say stock timing as the tune ever been altered? It's been so long since I have seen a stock tune what is stock timing? 27*? 26*?
#12
Just to reiterate some things that posters have said.
The TR6 if not gapped down can be a little wide for 150 shot. It could be blowing spark out. Definitely get those changed out to some BR7 gapped around 32.
Adding 2% fuel globally is most likely making you extremely rich when spraying.
Also stock fuel pump is good for 450ish whp. So if you are on stock fuel pump them most likely you are going to be on the edge of its duty cycle.
Do you have a fuel pressure safety switch?? if you do, the FPSS could be seeing that low pressure and grounding out the solenoids if the fuel pressure is dropping enough.
If you want help feel free to call us up or PM Chris, Dave or I.
The TR6 if not gapped down can be a little wide for 150 shot. It could be blowing spark out. Definitely get those changed out to some BR7 gapped around 32.
Adding 2% fuel globally is most likely making you extremely rich when spraying.
Also stock fuel pump is good for 450ish whp. So if you are on stock fuel pump them most likely you are going to be on the edge of its duty cycle.
Do you have a fuel pressure safety switch?? if you do, the FPSS could be seeing that low pressure and grounding out the solenoids if the fuel pressure is dropping enough.
If you want help feel free to call us up or PM Chris, Dave or I.
#13
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Thanks guys, I order the BR7's took the 2% out and only pullin 2* of timing. Waitin on the plugs then goin to try it and see how thigns go. For jets Im runnin 62 for nitrous and 38 for fuel.
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I honestly think you should have started with 50 or 100 jet to get the hang of it before diving into 150 shot.
If things are way of on a 50 shot you might not hurt anything, if it is way off on a 150 you might be building a new motor sooner than you thought.
I blew a motor up on a 150 shot. Lifted a ring land and cracked the cylinder wall. That motor was a stock bottom end pushing 571rwhp on a 100 shot. It was on barrowed time anyways lol.
If things are way of on a 50 shot you might not hurt anything, if it is way off on a 150 you might be building a new motor sooner than you thought.
I blew a motor up on a 150 shot. Lifted a ring land and cracked the cylinder wall. That motor was a stock bottom end pushing 571rwhp on a 100 shot. It was on barrowed time anyways lol.
#16
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This is the second LS1 car i have had with nitrous on it so figured i would start where i left off but wasnt thinkin when i put the TR6's in. But it is the first time I have used the HSW interface.
#17
u dont think it was the high horse power on the stock bottom that landed you rebuilding and not the nitrous im pushing around 380 n/a that should put me around 5 on the bottle
#19
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Didnt blow the motor this is a total different car, my last one was a 98 z28 this is a 99 z28. old motor was full bolt ons and tuned to 380 wheel and plus the 150 ran for 2 summer and then went to a turbo setup.