blackssrider00

hi everyone ,

just wondering if anybody has the venom 2000 nitrous kit yet if anyone does can you let me know how you like it and is it worth the money . I am leaning towards either a tnt wet kit or a nitrous express kit.But i like the qualitys of the venom 2000 kit thanks for your help

joe

wicked 98z

There are 2 people on ls1.com that sware that the venom kit is the best thing since sliced bread.

IMO it is a over priced dry kit. Hell for the 1500 or so you can get a direct port for a little more. Or get the TNT kit with all the extras cheaper.

Albert

whitelightnin

Do a search for VenomSS on LS1.com He runs lows 11's w/a 175 shot and seems to really like his kit.

Magnus357

Well, I remember when it first came out many many threads were dedicated to it. However the general consensus among those that raced with N20 on a regular basis and truely understood its application (including Colonel at the time) believed the way it worked was not only inefficent but dangerous.

I'm not sure if they changed their design, but the common thought before was to just get a normal proven N20 kit (outside the importworld), and if you really need the computer controling ability, then get a unit from a more respected producer (NOS or the like).

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

<small>[ June 07, 2002, 02:16 PM: Message edited by: Magnus357 ]</small>

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

I was one of the ones looking into this set-up. I was not sure that all their "safety" switches were that effective. For one reason it was totally unproven at that time. Their whole set up is based on our O2's and we all know how reliable they are.

I ended up with the TNT F1 set-up. I will be added the F.R.E.D. or a similar progressive controller soon. I'll have about the same price of the Venom invested, but I'll feel a lot more confident of the system.

David

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I was just reading about it. It has some very nice features. I really like the part throttle mode. It would kind of be like a suprcharged car in how the power is applied.

What I really dont like about it is the fact that you have to splice into the injector harness. They expect you to use those cheap little radio shack press type splicers that cut past the edge of the wire casing to make contact with the injector wire. Its this contact that will be relied on the add the necessary fuel. I would not trust it..although I think there would be other ways to make a more reliable connecttion that will last a long time. Those could be substituted.

The second thing I absolutely do not like is the controller will pulse the injector a second time to add the necessary fuel for nitrous flow. In other words...the injesctor is opened once to add the fuel it would normally require for NA operation and after it closed...it would be opened again to add fuel for the nitrous. Basically operating it at double speed having two open/close events where there should be one. And since there is a certain time it takes just for the injector to open and close your really going to be pushing the limits of the injector...especially operating above the 80% duty cycle that everone recommends we dont go above. Seems like if you got close to %100 duty cycle on the injector that it would be in between opening and closing to much to accurately meter fuel. I am not %100 sure about this...but thats my initial thoughts on this kit.

On the upside...it seems if you came up with some high quaility connectors for the injector harness and maybe used injectors with a flow rate that would keep it near the %80 duty cycle at max fuel requirements....the kit would be excellent.

So for me...the jury is still out on this kit.

VenomSS

Hey guys, I just signed up for this site. I am the VenomSS guy from LS1.com.
I have personally had the system for a little over a year now and I do love it. It is by far worth it's weight in gold. It is the safest system you can buy. I know alot of the ripoff places are selling it as high as $1699. You can get it for $1250 from Greg at Boro Performance
(1-888-974-2133). Just tell him that Steve from NY sent you and he'll honor the price. I have run well over 30- 10lb bottles and 12- 20lb bottles through my stock engine and have yet to even foul a plug.
I had a TNT kit and liked it, but you have so much more control over the Venom. And unlike wet kits it's safe to run on a stock LS1. Any questions, just let me know..

The Guy in MY 99TA

What is the point of this thing? I have heard people talk about it but I have never seen pictures or details on how it works. Can you give me an explanation on what makes it good and how it works?

TIA

Josh S.

VenomSS

I wrote this to a guy to explain the Venom system:
Don't read past this line unless you want to know my perspective of the Venom N2O system

The Venom VCN-2000 system is unique in the fact that it is the only true computer contolled nitrous system out there. I personally love the fact that I have full control over the system, and it does what you tell it to do. It has 3 different modes, controlled from inside your car. The system is programmed from your home PC or laptop. The 3 modes are :
LINEAR MODE(my favorite):which will gradually add in nitrous as you accelerate.You specify the throttle angle and the RPM and the % of N2O that you want. This is nice because it feels more like a built engine than a SHOT of N2O.And it appears to your opponent that it's more natural. Plus it's a hell of alot safer on all the parts of your car.
DRAG MODE:***** to the wall SHOT of N2O. You select the RPM and the amount of N2O. It turns on at WOT(wide open throttle)
This is the best mode to use at the track to get your 11 second time slip on a stock LS1.
TIMED MODE:With this you can use it to select a specific amount of time that the N2O is on. This is used by alot of turbo guys. You select the same exact parameters as LINEAR mode PLUS the amount of seconds that you want it to stay on for. I ran it at the track with this mode set at 50% throttle angle, 3000RPM,
85% N2O, and 10 seconds. I ran an 11.43 @ 123mph.
The system gets hooked up much different than a standard DRY kit. You have a computer controlled single selenoid, a computer brain(i keep it in the glovebox), all the prefinished wire harnesses with connectors,LCD dashboard screen, a beautiful black bottle, and all the hoses and hardware. You simply hookup the one 8 wire harness to the fuel injector wires,Throttle position,O2 sensor,RPM signal, and then all your HOT and ground wires. You make all these connections right at the ECM, so there is no obvious wires. Then run the hose from the trunk to the front underneath the car along the brakelines on the drivers side up into the engine compartment, and hook it up to the selenoid box. Then run your short N2O line from the out of the selenoid box and into the bellow AFTER the MAF(not before it like most dry kits).
Then you just connect the brain to the power harness and the 8 injector harness. Connect the LCD screen to the brain. Open the bottle, turn on the system, and TEAR IT UP!!!!!!
The system WILL NOT alow a lean condition, it will shut off instantly. Therefore I can say with great confidence that it is truly the safest and best made system in the industry. On my stock engine(only air intake and exhaust) I have put 30+ bottles through it and I still have the same set of NGK TR6 plugs(gapped at .38)that I started with.
WOW, I should get paid for this endorsement....LOL
If I left anything out, let me know

Dave

Do you run a bottle heater with the Venom or is that redundant?

also, where in LI are you? Is Hampton Dragway still open? Is Deer Park road still cruisey? <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

VenomSS

Hamptons are still open and 231(deer pk) is still going. Of course it has been infected with tons of those little fart pipe cars and cops. I can sometimes find a decent race. There are alot of those Cobras up there. For some reason they like to get beat up on..LOL
As for the comments about the connectors and the fuel injector pulsing on the Venom, the dude is wrong all the way. The connectors are 3M and make excellent contact without damaging the wires. The wires do not have to be cut in order to make a good connection. So being very experienced in all phases of electrical wiring, I can assure you that you are wrong about the quality of the splicers.
As for the pulsing of the injectors, they are not pulsed 2 times at all. The injector pulse is read by the Venom computer and the pulse width is increased and not doubled as you think. The computer tells you at all times what the pulse width is on the LCD screen. I have tested this on LS1 Edit and on a dyno and the pulse width is seamlessly increased and not doubled.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

VenomSS..are you sure about the pulsewitdth? This is straight off Venom's website.

The VCN-2000 is the safest choice by far. When nitrous is introduced , additional fuel is required to ensure the proper air/ fuel mixture is obtained. Without the additional fuel the mixture would become lean causing detonation of motor. Our system utilizes the existing injectors to enrich the air/fuel mixture when nitrous is added. our systems adds an injection pulse width after the computer has finished its pulse . the pulse added is the product of how much nitrous is introduced. this is calculated by the VCN-2000 module.

As far as those connectors...Ive used them many times. They work well at first but can have contact problems after very little time. They are illegal to use on aircraft wiring as per FAA due to reliability problems over time. If I buy the kit I may just use the good envionmental splices in place of those since its an extremely critical connection.

Im am still debating using this kit or using the new Crane Cams RPM based controller.

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 08:38 AM: Message edited by: 383LQ4SS ]</small>

Dave

ahh, there you have it. You misinterpreted that as meaning that the added pulsewidth is AFTER the injector closes - they simply tack on extra duration. Poorly worded on their part. So, for example:

___|---|___ 15 mS basic fuel pulse

+

_______|-|_ 5 mS for nitrous

=

____|----|_ 20 mS total injector pulse

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

VenomSS

Yes they did a poor job wording it. I guess if you get into 1000000th of a second they would be correct. When I run LS1 Edit on the N2O, I get a single pulsewidth, and not a tightly paired set of pulses. Either way, it works well.....

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 03:05 PM: Message edited by: VenomSS ]</small>

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Ok...thanks for the input. I still want to learn more about how it senses the pulsewidth the PCM puts out and then how it adds its own. Do you know?

Also...a few more questions.
On the website it say it can be adjusted to a 180+ shot. What If more is wanted. I will be running more than a 200 shot. Probably no more than a 225.

Also...is there an input in the programming for injector size?

VenomSS

Good question....???? I run a custom fogger on my L88 Chevelle(550hp of N2O) Give Holland a call at Venom or call Greg at Boro Performance 1-888-974-2133. I don't know how you would get above 180 with a computer controlled dry kit, nor would I try...

Judd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info there VenomSS, I've been curious about the Venom kit since they came out. If it works like they {and you say},it would be the best thing since sliced bread. I was just a little leary of it since most things that are too good to be true rarely are. As far as price goes, by the time I buy all the stuff you really need like window switches, progessive control ect.- it's going to be a toss up on price. Dunno, I might try one. Would like to hear from some other folks on it- ones that actually have it. As I said, thanks for the info.

Slart

If you want safety, do what I'm gunna do. Program a microcontroller to:

1) Vary the solenoids duty cycle to maintain a constant torque at the flywheel (similar to the algorythm for a progressive controller, but using a map of engine torque as negative feedback, so it puts out constant flywheel torque).

2) Modify the fuel solenoid's duty cycle based on the O2 sensor output so it adds duty cycle as it gets lean.

3) Shut off nitrous flow if it determines it can't maintain AF ratios

4) Pull timing (by hijacking the IAT sensor) when on the bottle to reduce the peak cylinder pressure.

5) Raise the rev limit as far as you feel is safe to reduce cylinder pressure

I wont tell you how much juice I'm planning on running on my stocker cuz you'd all thick I was nuts.

- Steve

itrous/fuel duty cycle
solenoids PWM the If you wanna get real safe, program it to modulateact as a progressive controller

Do a wet kit and program a microcontroller to do closed loop control of the fuel solenoid (via pwm) to maintain a target O2 voltage.

bo0oost

I know I'm bringing this topic back from the dead, and I apologize. I was doing a search, and came across this interesting thread.

My question is on the Venom o2 readings. Are our stock o2 sensors good enough for this? Do they respond fast enough? I have hooker headers, and the o2 sensors get placed farther back than stock... I wonder if that will affect the readings for nitrous. For my heads/cam car, it has made it run richer.

Also, do you tap both o2 sensors, or just one? If it's just one, can you join a wire from both, to get a better overall reading?

Thanks!

EDIT: Since linear mode works on WOT, if we don't do the bump stop mod to get closer to 90 deg, will it still classify it at WOT? Is WOT on our cars determined by angle?

EDIT #2: Someone told me not to get the Venom because it shuts down NO2 after the damage has already been done to the motor. They said once it reads lean, on nitrous, it's going to blow, or really damage your engine. It sounded logical when they said it, but I'd love to hear your guys opinions, especially VenomSS or DebianDog.

Thanks guys!

InfiniteReality

iTrader: (6)

Figured I'd bring this back.. I have a chance on getting a used 2000 system and really like what I've read about it.. Any more negatives since this hasn't been TTT in a way??

I need opinions please on if I should buy it or not. TIA!