AlbuquerqueFX

Greetings all,

Dave suggested I post here and ask for the general gurus of the forum to provide their $0.02...

I've picked up a direct port NX setup for a good price, and along with a built block, I'm ready to start spraying some lethal doses of nitrous into this puppy.

The situation I face now is deciding on a progressive controller for my setup. I'm using a Haltech E6K fully standalone engine management system. Built into the new computer is nitrous activation control; based on throttle position, manifold pressure, current engine speed and coolant temperature. Thus, I can program it to kick off the N2O after I've reached 3200 RPM's, the coolant is warmer than 180 degrees, throttle is at WOT and I'm still in vacuum on the 3-bar MAP sensor. On top of this, the new computer can then pull timing when it's on the spray...

Therefore, I have absolutely ZERO use for one of these fancy "program the whole f'ing car" setups. I just need a very simple "Start at this percentage and ramp to 100% over (x) seconds" setup.

NX wants an astonishing $430 for such a part (the MiniMax) NOS comes in much cheaper at around $300 for the same setup, but can only control a 10amp nitrous solenoid and 5amp fuel solenoid (of which, the NX solenoids I'm using would burn this thing up).

Crane has a similar part to NOS's controller, more expensive and with the same 10/5 amp limitation. And finally, Jacobs has an offering but suggests that you use an outboard relay to control the bigger solenoids.

So I guess the question is: where the hell can I get a GOOD progressive controller without spending $550 on a damned program-everything setup that I'll never use? And a controller than can deal with the 15+ amps of draw from the NX solenoids?

Thanks guys,
-Red-

<small>[ September 05, 2002, 05:33 PM: Message edited by: AlbuquerqueFX ]</small>

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

I heard that these controllers over work the noids and will end up trashing them...Is this true as I would some day like to get a controller when I decide on going no2..

AlbuquerqueFX

Well, considering how a progressive controller works, it shouldn't suprise anyone that it will eventually kill the solenoids. The progressive controller units work by pulsing the solenoids VERY quickly on and off to send a bit less fuel and funny gas to the individual jets.

Common damage ranges from just badly sealing plungers (leaky solenoid) to magnetic coils that burn/melt/commit suicide under all the pulsation. Hence the reason why you better buy GOOD solenoids, and I'm generally trusting the heavy duty NX ones more than the heavy duty NOS ones for this.

However, you can buy "pulseoids" which are specifically designed solenoids that are designed and built to deal with that kind of stress. If I start noticing my solenoids leaking from my abuse, I'll likely upgrade to one of these funky pulsoid things and see if they live longer.

wicked 98z

I can sell you my $550 progressive controller for 500 OBO (hint,hint,OBO). Let me know and ill send you the specs of it. Its the best on the market.

ALbert

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

I have one that I am not using and will sell for $400 shipped. Let me know.

AlbuquerqueFX

I do appreciate the replies guys <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

However, remember that I only need a time-based progressive controller. Timing retard, RPM window (lower and upper), throttle position, fuel pressure safety and master arm delay I already have built into my Haltech E6K unit.

Meaning, I don't necessarily need the most fully-featured unit... I just need a good time-based progressive controller and that's essentially it.

Still, I'll send ya both PM's just to check on it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

What do you notice when your noids are all banged up from the controller???

AlbuquerqueFX

Usually, they would stick partially open (which is why you ALWAYS put a safety solenoid on the nitrous feed side before your "real" solenoid) because the plunger is wearing. OR they could not fully open because the coil is burnt and will not pull the plunger fully open.

Either way, it starts lagging when you spray.

I thought I would update everyone though, because I have found an answer.

According to NOS technical support, this progressive controller should be more than adequate to run four solenoids (one fuel and one nitrous solenoid per bank of cylinders, four total on a V setup) which is like a 24+ amp draw.

The tech on the phone says this is done ALL the time, and shouldn't matter. Even though I'm only using ONE fuel and ONE nitrous solenoid, the draw from two NX solenoids will still be less than four NOS solenoids, so the controller is supposed to work just fine.

Hence, I'm gonna buy the NOS progressive controller for $250 instead of $430 for the damned NX minimax. Yay... I think...

bonez

Check out www.noswizard.com for their offerings. Have not used it, but "looks" good on paper. Yes, controllers are hard on noids-will require rebuilds in proportion to amount of use. Good luck.

bonez

Chris Spiess

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by bonez:
<strong>Check out www.noswizard.com for their offerings. Have not used it, but "looks" good on paper. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is the original. NX sells this unit as their 'Maximizer', and Nitrous Warehouse sells this as the FRED. Same unit all around.