low hp #'s on 75 shot
#1
Launching!
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low hp #'s on 75 shot
so im fairly new to nitrous. this is the first car ive ever sprayed.
mods are in my sig. car makes 313/333 on a stingy mustang dyno.
on the 75 shot it made 346/390. im very happy with the tq #'s but the horsepwer #'s seem very low.
thoughts?
10lb bottle with zex control box, .41 pill, about 4ft of line after pill running into the airbox.
mods are in my sig. car makes 313/333 on a stingy mustang dyno.
on the 75 shot it made 346/390. im very happy with the tq #'s but the horsepwer #'s seem very low.
thoughts?
10lb bottle with zex control box, .41 pill, about 4ft of line after pill running into the airbox.
#4
Launching!
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Yup same dyno. N/a pull and nitrous pull were within 20 minutes of each other.
Plugs are about a week old. Just put them in when I installed the kit.
NGK br7ef gapped at 30
Its not blowing spark out cause the car pulls HARD.
I'll post the dyno graph
Plugs are about a week old. Just put them in when I installed the kit.
NGK br7ef gapped at 30
Its not blowing spark out cause the car pulls HARD.
I'll post the dyno graph
#7
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Week old plugs will tell you nothing. If you wanna know where you're losing power then checking the plugs after putting a fresh set in and making a pull with little to no drive/idle time on them will give you a good indication of what is causing the lack of power.
Your wide band is a nice tool to have but is a cumulative average and tells you nothing other than how your motor is running on average and not an individual cyl basis. Plugs on the other hand will.
Your wide band is a nice tool to have but is a cumulative average and tells you nothing other than how your motor is running on average and not an individual cyl basis. Plugs on the other hand will.
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#9
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I'm not quite sure. I think n/a we managed to get around 29 before seeing knock. We pulled afew ddegrees out of the -39 degree table so when I spray I just unplug my coolant temp sensor.
Unsure of bottle pressure. I need a warmer but can't afford that right now. Bottlehad about 3 1/4 hits on a 100 shot in the previous car before going in mine. So should be a little more than half full.
Unsure of bottle pressure. I need a warmer but can't afford that right now. Bottlehad about 3 1/4 hits on a 100 shot in the previous car before going in mine. So should be a little more than half full.
#10
TECH Senior Member
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Its all about bottle pressure....you should be seeing a lot more TQ then that. Spring for a cheap dynotune bottle heater and get it to 950-1000 and I bet youll see a lot more gains.
BTW I know people are gonna say something about my next recommendation but id throw TR6s back in it.
BTW I know people are gonna say something about my next recommendation but id throw TR6s back in it.
#12
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You need a new tuner.
Just jam timing in it until you see knock? retarded !
you said "But we watched the afrs and knock. Everything is damn near perfect."
Whats perfect A/F? perfect knock?
And who the hell goes to a dyno session with a 1/2 full bottle and no heater?
all of this then wonder why the numbers are low. LOL !!
Just jam timing in it until you see knock? retarded !
you said "But we watched the afrs and knock. Everything is damn near perfect."
Whats perfect A/F? perfect knock?
And who the hell goes to a dyno session with a 1/2 full bottle and no heater?
all of this then wonder why the numbers are low. LOL !!
#16
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theres no way id go back to a tr6. i will eventually go to a bigger shot which is why i went the br7ef. 2 steps colder
temp was about 80 degrees. the mustang dyno was seeing exactly 1hp of correction factor.
i know i need a bottle heater and a refill. im going to get the bottle filled tonight for some later evening fun and hopefully get a heater very soon.
the reason i went to the dyno with no heater and a half bottle is cause i have access to a dyno whenever i want for free. and its about 15 minutes from my house. so it really dosent matter.
what i meant about throwing timing at it was, long before i started spraying we spent many nights street tuning and dyno tuning, throwing timing in it across the board and taking it out in places it knocked. getting as much timing we could safely.
i believe the afr's were in the low to mid 12's
as for knock there was a guick flash of .02 around 3krpm
temp was about 80 degrees. the mustang dyno was seeing exactly 1hp of correction factor.
i know i need a bottle heater and a refill. im going to get the bottle filled tonight for some later evening fun and hopefully get a heater very soon.
the reason i went to the dyno with no heater and a half bottle is cause i have access to a dyno whenever i want for free. and its about 15 minutes from my house. so it really dosent matter.
what i meant about throwing timing at it was, long before i started spraying we spent many nights street tuning and dyno tuning, throwing timing in it across the board and taking it out in places it knocked. getting as much timing we could safely.
i believe the afr's were in the low to mid 12's
as for knock there was a guick flash of .02 around 3krpm
#17
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Just because it doesn't knock doesn't mean its not to much timing.
Anyone who tunes a car using the factory knock sensors as the criteria for how much timing a motor needs should not be tuning.
Take them out and throw them in the trash, then like I said get a new tuner.
JMO.
Anyone who tunes a car using the factory knock sensors as the criteria for how much timing a motor needs should not be tuning.
Take them out and throw them in the trash, then like I said get a new tuner.
JMO.
#19
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Turn them dang knock sensors off. Nothing is more annoying then going to the track, making a hit, and then looking at a log to see where it pulled 4 degrees of timing on launch because the exhaust thought about bumping under the car. Forget that. If the timing is right then you don't need them. Besides, if you truly had too much timing in the motor by time they picked it up and pulled it out on the spray odds are its too late. I desensitize the knock sensors in all my tunes. There are other ways to create fail safes.