LNC 2000 launch control
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LNC 2000 launch control Ok so I hooked up the timing retard, just orange wire to my arming switch, but the launch control I don't quite get. I understand you hook it to the clutch switch, but how would that not activate the launch control between shifts when I press the clutch in? Am I missing something here? How are you guys hooking them up in stick shift cars?
You can wire up a relay somehow to make it not activate once the nitrous comes on. But I have mine setup to come on every time the clutch is pushed in. It actually lets you no lift shift. It cuts spark and it's like shifting with the car off. Give it a try. Pretty bad *** actually.
You can wire up a relay somehow to make it not activate once the nitrous comes on. But I have mine setup to come on every time the clutch is pushed in. It actually lets you no lift shift. It cuts spark and it's like shifting with the car off. Give it a try. Pretty bad *** actually.
Have you guys been happy with the LNC set up overall? I actually just asked which 2 step to purchase over in the LT1 section (I run an LS computer w/coil on plug). Are there any alternatives other than the 2000?
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That's awesome, and I love this thing, but I just don't get if it activates at the line for launch control when I push the clutch all the way in, what makes it not activated launch control every shift when I push the clutch in?
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Verdad Gallardo Not to steal your thread OP but I have a question about the timing retard rate dial. With a basic 150 wet shot do I want the dial set to zero? I just realized it's set at 4 which means no timing is being pulled for almost a full second intially.
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This exactly what I'm wondering as well now that it's been brought to my attention. From my understanding us nitrous guys want it set at zero to help control the initial hit which will help with detonation and whatnot. Hopefully someone will chime in on this who has experience
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This exactly what I'm wondering as well now that it's been brought to my attention. From my understanding us nitrous guys want it set at zero to help control the initial hit which will help with detonation and whatnot. Hopefully someone will chime in on this who has experience
Yes leaving it on zero will pull all 4 degrees with no delay. I'm thinking this is best for me too, but I'd like to hear from others on this as well
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From: Decatur, IN
Rate setting Just to clarify, the rate dial doesn't delay the timing retard, it sets the ramp rate for the timing retard to ramp up to the full amount of timing retard. See page 8 of the current version of the product instructions (rev2.2).
So if you had it set to 10 degrees maximum retard and you have the rate set to 4 (0.8 seconds ramp rate, Hold & Wait mode) then it will take 0.8 seconds for it to ramp up to 10 degrees of retard once you activate the timing retard. So after 0.2 seconds you would have 2.5 degrees of retard, 0.4 seconds you would have 5 degrees of retard etc.
FYI - the Hold & Wait mode means that if you disable the timing retard via the activation input and then re-enable it, it will not ramp again (it will start where it left off).
So if you had it set to 10 degrees maximum retard and you have the rate set to 4 (0.8 seconds ramp rate, Hold & Wait mode) then it will take 0.8 seconds for it to ramp up to 10 degrees of retard once you activate the timing retard. So after 0.2 seconds you would have 2.5 degrees of retard, 0.4 seconds you would have 5 degrees of retard etc.
FYI - the Hold & Wait mode means that if you disable the timing retard via the activation input and then re-enable it, it will not ramp again (it will start where it left off).
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From: Decatur, IN
Ramp rate Depending on if you have a progressive system or not, if you have a time delay on the nitrous activation and/or how long it takes for your nitrous to flow to the engine you may want a ramp rate instead of taking 10 degrees (or what ever you have the max set to) right away. It also depends on at what rpm you have the nitrous coming in and how much timing you have in the base calibration at that point. A 10 degree hit in timing retard can be fairly significant on power if you aren't full nitrous flow or don't need that much timing retard initially.
To answer the main question, yes if it is set to 0 the timing retard goes directly to the max timing retard setting on the dial when you activate the timing retard ("Retard is immediate" per the instructions).
To answer the main question, yes if it is set to 0 the timing retard goes directly to the max timing retard setting on the dial when you activate the timing retard ("Retard is immediate" per the instructions).
This exactly what I'm wondering as well now that it's been brought to my attention. From my understanding us nitrous guys want it set at zero to help control the initial hit which will help with detonation and whatnot. Hopefully someone will chime in on this who has experience
Depending on if you have a progressive system or not, if you have a time delay on the nitrous activation and/or how long it takes for your nitrous to flow to the engine you may want a ramp rate instead of taking 10 degrees (or what ever you have the max set to) right away. It also depends on at what rpm you have the nitrous coming in and how much timing you have in the base calibration at that point. A 10 degree hit in timing retard can be fairly significant on power if you aren't full nitrous flow or don't need that much timing retard initially.
To answer the main question, yes if it is set to 0 the timing retard goes directly to the max timing retard setting on the dial when you activate the timing retard ("Retard is immediate" per the instructions).
To answer the main question, yes if it is set to 0 the timing retard goes directly to the max timing retard setting on the dial when you activate the timing retard ("Retard is immediate" per the instructions).
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From: Decatur, IN
Timing retard vs lean Probably yes but keep in mind that taking timing out isn't going to stop the initial lean spike.
You likely need the fuel to start spraying a little sooner than the nitrous to solve that. Some nitrous controllers provide a way to delay the nitrous in relation to the fuel for that reason.
Also, as I stated earlier that setting is not a delay. It is a ramp rate. If you have it set to 5 degrees and position 4 then in 0.1 seconds you would have .6 degrees of retard, in 0.2 seconds you would have 1.25 degrees of retard, in 0.3 you would have 1.9, in 0.4 you would have 2.5, in 0.5 you would have 3.1, in 0.6 you would have 3.75, in 0.7 you would have 4.4 and in 0.8 you would have the full retard.
Since you are not using a controller, you might be able to correct the lean spike mechanically (fuel or nitrous lines, fittings, solenoid positions, operating fuel pressure etc.). If not and you always trigger at the same starting rpm you could modify the engine calibration to be richer at that RPM level to be safer.
You likely need the fuel to start spraying a little sooner than the nitrous to solve that. Some nitrous controllers provide a way to delay the nitrous in relation to the fuel for that reason.
Also, as I stated earlier that setting is not a delay. It is a ramp rate. If you have it set to 5 degrees and position 4 then in 0.1 seconds you would have .6 degrees of retard, in 0.2 seconds you would have 1.25 degrees of retard, in 0.3 you would have 1.9, in 0.4 you would have 2.5, in 0.5 you would have 3.1, in 0.6 you would have 3.75, in 0.7 you would have 4.4 and in 0.8 you would have the full retard.
Since you are not using a controller, you might be able to correct the lean spike mechanically (fuel or nitrous lines, fittings, solenoid positions, operating fuel pressure etc.). If not and you always trigger at the same starting rpm you could modify the engine calibration to be richer at that RPM level to be safer.
In my situation I'm pulling 5 degrees on a 125 shot. This is a single nozzle wet kit. Single stage and no progressive controller. It's a 6-speed trans as well. I do not run a window switch at the moment, but I never spray before 3500 rpm. On the dyno it spikes up super hard and goes a bit lean on the initial hit. According to my tuner it's not unexceptable, but he'd prefer to see it a little better. Right now the rate dial is at 4 which is almost a full second delay according to the info provided with the LNC unit. So bottom line, in my situation, am I better off setting it to zero for safety purposes?
Last edited by Jason Haines @ LPE; Feb 1, 2016 at 11:55 AM. Reason: typo's
Probably yes but keep in mind that taking timing out isn't going to stop the initial lean spike.
You likely need the fuel to start spraying a little sooner than the nitrous to solve that. Some nitrous controllers provide a way to delay the nitrous in relation to the fuel for that reason.
Also, as I stated earlier that setting is not a delay. It is a ramp rate. If you have it set to 5 degrees and position 4 then in 0.1 seconds you would have .6 degrees of retard, in 0.2 seconds you would have 1.25 degrees of retard, in 0.3 you would have 1.9, in 0.4 you would have 2.5, in 0.5 you would have 3.1, in 0.6 you would have 3.75, in 0.7 you would have 4.4 and in 0.8 you would have the full retard.
Since you are not using a controller, you might be able to correct the lean spoke it mechanically (fuel or nitrous lines, fittings, solenoid positions, operating fuel pressure etc.). If not and you always trigger at the same starting rpm you could modify the engine calibration to be richer at that RPM level to be safer.
You likely need the fuel to start spraying a little sooner than the nitrous to solve that. Some nitrous controllers provide a way to delay the nitrous in relation to the fuel for that reason.
Also, as I stated earlier that setting is not a delay. It is a ramp rate. If you have it set to 5 degrees and position 4 then in 0.1 seconds you would have .6 degrees of retard, in 0.2 seconds you would have 1.25 degrees of retard, in 0.3 you would have 1.9, in 0.4 you would have 2.5, in 0.5 you would have 3.1, in 0.6 you would have 3.75, in 0.7 you would have 4.4 and in 0.8 you would have the full retard.
Since you are not using a controller, you might be able to correct the lean spoke it mechanically (fuel or nitrous lines, fittings, solenoid positions, operating fuel pressure etc.). If not and you always trigger at the same starting rpm you could modify the engine calibration to be richer at that RPM level to be safer.