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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 11:41 PM
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Default NOS Mini problems.....

I'm having problems with the 15974 nos mini progressive controller. Sometimes when I'm driving and I turn it on with the arm switch the display on the handheld programmer flickers. When I try to program it it'll only show 1 number and flicker as if it's glitching. This does not happen when the car is off with the key on.

I've relocated the small ground for the handheld to 2 different isolated chassis points with no improvement. I have a constant 14 Volts with the car running as well. Anyone have any ideas as to what's going on?
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 08:32 PM
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Buy a new controller from Summit for $75. I've gone through two already, first one I mounted in my glove box in my Corvette which was too hot for it and the other time I held both buttons down while the car was running. Both times the controller would flicker and not be responsive to RPM readings
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver C6
Buy a new controller from Summit for $75. I've gone through two already, first one I mounted in my glove box in my Corvette which was too hot for it and the other time I held both buttons down while the car was running. Both times the controller would flicker and not be responsive to RPM readings
That's exactly what mine does good to know! When I hold both of the buttons down with it running it flickers and is unresponsive. Mine is velcro mounted on the dash. Holley said if I send it back they'll test it and if it's bad they send me a new one. Maybe these things are sensitive to heat? If you went through 2 of them they must be junk.

Btw: I see you're in the Detroit metro area. Are you going to the Dream Cruise next week?
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BooneSS13
That's exactly what mine does good to know! When I hold both of the buttons down with it running it flickers and is unresponsive. Mine is velcro mounted on the dash. Holley said if I send it back they'll test it and if it's bad they send me a new one. Maybe these things are sensitive to heat? If you went through 2 of them they must be junk.

Btw: I see you're in the Detroit metro area. Are you going to the Dream Cruise next week?
Yes sir, now I have mine velcroed next to the radio area with no issues, until I forgot that programming should only be done with power on and engine off.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver C6
Yes sir, now I have mine velcroed next to the radio area with no issues, until I forgot that programming should only be done with power on and engine off.
you're not supposed to program with the engine running?
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BooneSS13
you're not supposed to program with the engine running?
Correct, set up all your variables with power on and engine off. It also makes it possible to set your WOT voltage in the ninth menu. The only thing I check with engine running is the rpm accuracy, also I am only using 1 stage of no2, and during activation the controller reads 1 r. You can also test your system with the power on an engine off by putting your activation rpm at 00 and depressing the gas pedal and hearing your solenoid clicking. If you're not getting activation then the eighth menu has to be set up properly.
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver C6
Correct, set up all your variables with power on and engine off. It also makes it possible to set your WOT voltage in the ninth menu. The only thing I check with engine running is the rpm accuracy, also I am only using 1 stage of no2, and during activation the controller reads 1 r. You can also test your system with the power on an engine off by putting your activation rpm at 00 and depressing the gas pedal and hearing your solenoid clicking. If you're not getting activation then the eighth menu has to be set up properly.
Of course the set up depends on what type of car you have and how you're activating your system, mine being a 2005 Corvette with everything electronic is how I had to do mine.
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Old Aug 13, 2017 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver C6
Correct, set up all your variables with power on and engine off. It also makes it possible to set your WOT voltage in the ninth menu. The only thing I check with engine running is the rpm accuracy, also I am only using 1 stage of no2, and during activation the controller reads 1 r. You can also test your system with the power on an engine off by putting your activation rpm at 00 and depressing the gas pedal and hearing your solenoid clicking. If you're not getting activation then the eighth menu has to be set up properly.
To add, if one is using a stand alone fuel system with an FPSS hooked to it, they must first ground the FPSS when testing to see if the solenoids click at the set wot voltage. The pump on the standalone should be disabled during confirmation of the NOS mini working at proper wot voltage with car powered on but not running, and if the FPSS isn't bypassed, the solenoids will obviously not click. See here for more info:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...-see-here.html
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